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Archive for Saigon Diary – Page 10

Saigon’s Trendiest Place


Yesterday’s post was all about the inconspicuous entrance and passageway leading to L’Usine. L’Usine means factory in French, and L’Usine here is an old factory loft space in downtown Saigon that could be in NY’s Soho or the Marais in Paris. It is an ultra hip restaurant, gallery, fashion outlet and gathering place.

As I said yesterday you’d never find the place if you didn’t have insider information. You enter a covered alley off the main shopping street and pass through a dark passageway lined with stalls selling traditional Vietnamese paintings of women in conical hats. At the end of the stalls you turn right into a motorbike parking passage that leads to a stairway where the only clue to something more is a sign with a finger pointing up the stairs. The entrance to L’Usine itself is off a tile hallway on the second floor and is open to the outside with a view of the galvanized tin roofs that cover the inner courtyard. There are many secret spaces like this in Saigon. You often catch a glimpse of some wonderful French colonial villa or garden court through an open gate or door on a dingy street. read more

Secret Entrance


This is the interior passageway and motorbike parking garage inside a once grand French colonial building. Like most of the old buildings in Saigon the facade hides a vast and mysterious interior. The entrance to this one is an inconspicuous opening off of Dong Khoi, a street where luxury brands like Gucci and Versace share the spotlight with beggars, shoe shine boys, souvenir shops and street vendors selling fresh coconuts.

This picture was taken from the top of the stairs leading to a special place. You would never find it on your own. It’s like a 1920’s speakeasy. There is no street signage and only a discolored wall painting in the stairwell with the name, L’Usine, and a painted finger in 1920’s lithographic style pointing up the stairs. This is the ultimate in secret, hip, exclusive, insider stuff. Tomorrow I’ll show you more. read more

Back in Business

I’m the picture of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder these days. I can’t get out of a taxi without going through the ritual of looking back at the seat and then jamming my hand in my left trouser pocket to make sure my “replacement” iPhone is not in the cab but securely in my pocket. Since I ride in 4 – 6 taxis a day this panic avoidance mechanism is consuming a lot of nervous energy. Still, having been without this lifeline to the larger world for almost 3 weeks I am determined not to let it happen that little device slip away again if I can help it. read more

My Lifeline

Two years ago I was under pressure to buy a new phone. The choices were astonishing, but all I wanted was a cell phone to replace the small flip-phone that was going south on me. I’m not a big data guy. I don’t need to be connected 24/7 to my email server. I don’t listen to music or watch YouTube on my phone. I needed a phone not a pocket rocket computer. I wanted to make and receive calls when I was away from home. That’s all I was looking for – an emergency line for necessary calls. It was almost impossible to find one, and what was available was almost as expensive as the tricked out ones with bells and whistles. Why not, I said, and caved for an iPhone on the family plan – 2 phones and a bill that wasn’t much different than what we were paying for 2 phones and 2 different plans. read more

Giving and Receiving

A little more than a year ago a friend wrote to tell me that he thought I had found the secret to retirement – a really great new job. I think he’s right, although there are moments when stress, conflict, or just plain fatigue makes me want to pack it all in and veg on some tropical beach with a no-brain thriller.

We’ve been back in Vietnam for two weeks now, and there has been plenty of stress, jet-lag, conflict and fatigue. We’ve been busy reestablishing relationships, going to meetings, attending to a 4 day staff retreat in central Vietnam, and spending a couple of days with the President of the foundation reviewing local operations and looking at budgets. These two weeks have been unusually busy but there is an exciting buzz to being back and some remarkably good things to look back on. read more