Baseball Memories…

When I was a kid, cameras had become common and affordable. Brownie box cameras were the rage. My parents bought one, but rarely took pictures. There are a few of me as a baby, a gap of a few years, and a few more from my elementary school days.
 
When my mother died, I inherited the scuffed leather photo albums, pictures yellowing under acetate, that had been gathering dust in her bookcase. Now, they’re in a box under my desk along with more personal history – journals, notebooks, old letters, and other memorabilia.
 
As an only child, I’m always alone in those early pictures. Most were taken behind our house on Capitol Hill and might be seen as a posed series because of their similarity – all taken against the hedge backdrop in a corner of our backyard.
 
In one photo I’m dressed as a cowboy with chaps and sheepskin vest, six-guns, boots, and a cowboy hat. In another I’m a soldier with a helmet and rifle and yet another shows me in a baseball uniform with long socks and a choked-up bat.

As a kid, I was crazy about baseball, and I was certain, as only a kid can be, that one day I would play in the majors. Baseball was the “national pastime” and my father and I played out my fantasy almost every night when he came home from work. 
 
He was the catcher, and I was the pitcher – much more important than the catcher. We used a stepping-stone set in the lawn as home plate. I was the Yankee’s star pitcher, and he was Yogi Berra. It was always Game 7 of the World Series against the Dodgers. I’d take the mound, and he would crouch down behind “the plate” to receive my best 9-year-old fastball.  A big wind up and leg kick, then I sent it blazing down the pipe. “Ste-e-rike One” he would call out. I would pound the mitt, lean forward again, checking for the sign, nod my head, check the runner at first base, then wind up, kick my leg high, and fire another one. The whole ritual lasted about half an hour. It was never enough. I always wanted more, but he was tired, and mom was waiting with dinner. Playing catch with my dad on summer nights is one of my favorite childhood memories.
 
I’ve always wished we had done more things together. Looking back I’m wistful, but he was a quiet reserved man who was better with people outside the family than he was with me and mom. On one occasion, in a rare opening up, he told me he ran the mile in high school. It was a surprise to me because I don’t think I’d ever seen him run.
 
Then one night not long after that I waited for him at the bus stop, and we raced each other home. The memory is still vivid, him running in the street beside me, holding his fedora in one hand, his briefcase in the other, his long stride, the coattails of his overcoat flying out behind, and a smile on his face. He looked great, but it was a one-time thing. I never saw him run again, and except for playing catch we did almost nothing together.
 
Back then, when he was at work, I spent hours throwing a tennis ball against the brick wall of the church across the street. I visualized a strike zone on the wall, threw hard, then fielded the returning ball like Phil Rizzuto and threw the runner out at first.
 
In those days my dad and I were loyal fans of the Class AAA Seattle Rainiers of the Pacific Coast League and a couple of times each summer he took me to Sick’s Seattle Stadium to see the Rainiers’ play and hopefully collect player autographs before the game. We always sat in the bleachers (left field was the Rainiers’ side), ate hot dogs, drank Cokes, and talked about the team – who was likely to make it to the majors, who was on his way down – but he never talked about anything personal or asked me how I felt about things.
 
I loved those trips to the ballpark. It was the only other activity I remember doing one on one with my dad. I never made it to the majors, never even made the high school team, but the memory of those backyard pitching duels and Rainier games were high points of my childhood.
 
Today, when I look at the photos in those scuffed up old albums, there is a sadness that creeps up on me. There are no pictures of my dad. There are only the ones of me with a ball and mitt or a choked-up bat.
 
I never knew my dad as a person, never knew what he thought or how he felt about so many things. He never once told me he loved me, and I never saw him show affection to my mother. He was a quiet man, reserved and much respected in the community, but not demonstrative.

Years later my mother told me they made a conscious decision to withhold affection from me when I was three years old. He thought I cried too easily and showing affection was turning me into a “sissy.” Withholding affection, he told her, would “toughen me up,” and she was compliant. I guess it was his way of loving me. I see now that playing backyard catch was the only way he could show it.
 
It took me awhile to understand these things. I know he was proud of me later, and maybe my becoming a Marine Corps fighter pilot was proof to him that his withholding strategy worked. After all, there are no sissies in the cockpit of a supersonic fighter.

I feel sad when I think my dad wasn’t able to share himself with us. To think of how much he and I and mom missed out on.  Regardless, my own wife and children will never have to wonder whether they’re loved. I tell them every time we talk or write.

Leaving the Comfort Zone…

The A/C and ceiling fan at 95D Nguyen Van Thu Street are white noise and always there, but the clock alarm’s frequency is different and pulls me back from a deep slumber. I hit snooze and wrap the sheet tighter, hoping to catch another minute of sleep. The oppressive heat of the Saigon night has diminished. At 5:15 a.m. the street outside is quiet except for an occasional motorbike.

I peel back the covers and sit on the edge of the bed. The walls are sweating and there’s a faint hint of mold. Heavy condensation on the front window makes the streetlight a yellowish blur. I step onto the cool tile floor, turn on the computer and link to the Seattle NPR station. There are tornados in Oklahoma, floods in Texas. In Seattle, it’s the usual November rain.

I turn the A/C down and open our hallway door. A rush of stored heat hits me along with the faint aroma of Indian spices. My wife and I look at each other. Curry and cumin at 5:15 a.m.? Our Indian neighbors are already cooking. I pad barefoot to the kitchen, get yoghurt and two small Asian bananas, and return to the bedroom.

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I first came here during the “American War,” an ex-Marine turned commercial pilot, flying troops in and out of the country for R&R. Marilynn and I returned in 2007 for a bicycle tour. Once back in the States, I told a friend how impressed we were with the industry and hospitality of the Vietnamese. He asked me to help his organization raise money for projects in Vietnam and now I’m managing its Saigon office.

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At 5:45a.m. we close the door behind us. We’re on our way to the gym. It’s as cool as it will get today. Stepping onto the landing we’re met with a blast of even hotter air, stronger Indian aromas, and rising cigarette smoke. We look at each other, nod toward the stairway and take it instead of the elevator. Two floors below, the apartment door stands open. Suspicions confirmed. The Indian family doesn’t like air-conditioning. They manage the heat by leaving the front door and all the windows open. They’ve spent their entire lives on the sub-continent in temperatures like these. We wonder if strident voices are part of the same heritage? I suspect it’s an arranged marriage, a commercial contract between families. A business deal. They don’t seem to dislike each other but their strident voices make me wonder. Judging other cultures is tricky business, but my guess is they’re in it for the long haul.

Our building is modern but typically Vietnamese – tall and narrow. Six apartments stacked vertically above the lobby entrance. All six are occupied by expats. In addition to the Indians there’s a nondescript Belgian couple, a sexy 50-ish Frenchwoman whose young Vietnamese boyfriends deliver her to the door on the back of their motorbikes, an Australian who gets sideways with the houseman whenever he brings a Vietnamese girl in for a sleepover, and two Australian pilots who use the apartment as a crash pad between flights.

On the ground floor Mr. Vinh, the houseman, in a ribbed undershirt, khaki shorts, and flip-flops puts his cigarette down to summon a taxi for us. He never looks us in the eye or has much to say. He steals small things and uses our washer-dryer when we’re out of town. We step out the gate to avoid the smoke and wait for the cab as the sky begins to lighten.

Mrs. Van, our landlady at 95D Nguyen Van Thu, likes expatriates. She especially likes the monthly wire transfer of US dollars into her bank account. She accepts only dollars or euros – no Vietnam Dong. She is close to our age, overweight for a Vietnamese, and always dressed in black. She lives next door but often sits in our lobby where she can watch her cash flow come and go and gossip with Mr. Vinh.

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 Despite the North’s victory in 1975, Vietnam is still divided. Dialects and attitudes differ. Northerners claim linguistic and cultural superiority, and there is plenty of North-South animosity remaining. After the “American War” the victors celebrated by renaming Saigon Ho Chi Minh City. Officially, it is HCMC, but expatriates and local Vietnamese refer to the old city as Saigon while acknowledging the greater urban area as HCMC.

Eight million motorbikes, nine million people, 30,000 taxis, rolling food carts, curbside grills, sidewalk tents and open-air cafes. Sidewalks are crowded. Walking in the street is both mandatory and dangerous. In our four years here, my wife still doesn’t cross the street without holding my hand. I always remind her – “Walk at a steady pace, eyes forward, without stopping. They’ll make the adjustments.”

At all hours of the day and night the sidewalks are crowded with men in their undershirts sitting on children’s plastic chairs. In the morning they drink tea or coffee, in the afternoon they switch to beer. In the evening it’s more beer and later it will be karaoke, sometimes a prostitute…and more beer.

_____

This morning it’s relatively quiet. After our workout at the historic Hotel Rex, where General Westmoreland delivered his infamous press briefings, Marilynn and I walk up Dong Khoi Street to our favorite café, Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf. Its terrace, across from Notre-Dame Cathedral, offers the best people-watching in town. Cathedral Square is now the social center of the city. Notre-Dame, and the ornate Saigon Central Post Office just behind it are two great examples of 19th century French-style architecture.

Because of their colonial history, the Vietnamese have no reverence for the French or their architecture. Many of the wonderful old buildings have been torn down and replaced with shopping malls and high-rise apartment houses. The cathedral and post office are exceptions. Built during the late 19th century French Indochina period, they are magnificent examples of its architectural influences. The Romanesque-style Basilica is built of bricks and other materials imported from Toulouse, and the Saigon Central Post Office, with its bright yellow exterior framed with white trim and domed ceilings, incorporates Gothic, Renaissance, and French Colonial elements.

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There is no better place than Cathedral Square to catch the morning scene. Between 7 and 8:30 a.m. shoeshine boys fight to polish my flip-flops. Old women roam the terrace selling lottery tickets. Nike employees lean against the wall waiting for a company van to take them to their factory in Bien Hoa. An old man sits on the curb clutching helium balloons, and I fantasize they will carry him quietly away while we sip our lattes.

The square has become one of our social centers too. We see the same people most mornings and have made friends with several – both locals and expats. It’s not unlike a neighborhood bar in the States.

Modern Saigon is on its way to work, and we watch the parade from our table on the terrace. The office building on the corner is the HSBC Bank headquarters. Even with daytime temperatures close to 100° the Saigonese dress professionally – suits and dress shirts for the men, skirts, scarves, and 4-inch heels for the women. Traditional, upscale, business-like, and aspirational. No casual Fridays here. Everyone wants to be seen as a player.

Across the square, Saigon brides in rented wedding dresses arrive to have their pictures taken against the cathedral backdrop. The groom sweats in the Saigon heat as the photographer poses his bride. The wedding is months away, but this day is almost as important. Photos are taken, curated, placed in a white leather album with gold lettering, and delivered to the bride. I try not to be cynical, but for many this day and the photographs may be the highlight of her life. 

After the wedding, she will likely be scrubbing floors at home while he sits on a little plastic chair drinking beer with his buddies. The wedding album will remind her of happier times. She’ll cover it in plastic and place it in a prominent place near their at home shrine. It will remind her of the day by the cathedral when she was a princess.

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At 10° north of the equator, there are only two seasons–hot and wet – hot and wetter. Days and nights are almost equal in length – regardless of season. Sometimes it’s the only consistency we can count on.

By 8:30 both temperature and humidity are beginning to climb. Cumulus clouds are building and will continue to billow upwards until midday—then unload. The city is built on a swamp next to a river, and the central business district is all below mean sea level. Saigon rainstorms are legendary. Within an hour the street will be ankle deep then just as quickly be dry. Every motorbike has a plastic rain poncho stashed in the seat compartment. They go on quickly and come off just as quickly.

There’s no rain yet, but it’s time to finish our lattes and get going.

_____

Marilynn heads back to the apartment at 95 Nguyen Van Thu where she works remotely with her US healthcare clients, and I head for the office.

As I walk, I see need everywhere. Men sleeping in doorways. Maimed beggars. People in rags. A woman seated on the curb selling single cans of Coke. Another with a small hibachi roasting small pieces of some kind of meat. A man in a Tommy Hilfiger T-shirt sits like a statue and watches me every day with an expressionless stare. This is not the downtown financial district of upscale boutiques and skyscrapers. This is District Three, close to downtown but an area where rents are cheaper.

Arriving at the office, I’m greeted warmly by Nga, our perfectly groomed receptionist. At 20 years-old, this is her first real job. She lives with her mother in a modest Vietnamese apartment, and though I don’t know the extent of her education she is up to date on current affairs and her English skills are passable. It’s a mystery how she manages on the $500 per month we pay her, but she has an Apple laptop, the latest iPhone, and a fashionable wardrobe.

Nga is aspirational, and studies Marilynn’s manner closely. She has Western tastes and an interest in floral design, but she’s caught in a double bind. Her culture doesn’t value women. Most of her boyfriends are not as well educated and likely headed for those little chairs and beer in the afternoon. My fingers are crossed that her fate will be better than the Saigon brides at the cathedral.

Like other offices, large and small, our people bring their motorbikes inside and park them in the reception area. It’s all about security. No chain or lock will prevent their theft if left outside. At first, it’s jarring and incongruous to see Nga at her desk, art on the walls, copies of Persian rugs on the tile floor, and a couple of motorbikes parked just inside the door. Soon, it seems normal.

I believe what we do is making a difference, but sometimes it feels like we’re shoveling against the tide. A pregnant woman, about to deliver, may have to ride 30 miles on the back of a motorbike to get to the hospital we built in her province, but it’s 20 miles closer than the nearest one last year.

I feel like I’ve gotten as much or more from the Vietnam experience than the people we serve. I came with assumptions, went through a honeymoon period where I only saw good in the people, then a dark period when everyone seemed corrupt. Lately I’ve come to the realization that, for most Vietnamese, life is about survival. There is overwhelming need and limited resources. There’s never enough.

Today I’m having lunch with Jack Howell, the CEO of Prudential Insurance. Jack and his wife, Jennifer have become friends. Right now, he and I are working together to get Prudential to underwrite the purchase of light therapy machines and other equipment for neonatal wards in hard to reach areas of north Vietnam and the Mekong Delta. We’re close to a deal but philanthropy is not a high priority at Prudential headquarters, and I need Jack to put push the corporate bureaucracy.

Jack and Jennifer are two of our friends who’ve decided to remain in Asia. It’s not for everyone, but expats are well compensated and international schools offer their children an excellent education. They rotate through a sequence of capitals, here for 3-5 years, then someplace else for another 3-5. Tokyo, Beijing, Hong Kong, Seoul, Manila, Bangkok, Saigon, Singapore, and Jakarta are all in the rotation.

There are also a handful of Westerners have found a home here, learned the devilishly hard language, married locally and made the transition, but most of us are outsiders with special skills who rely on staff for language, business practice, and cultural guidance to accomplish our missions.

I try not to think about what America did here in the ‘60s and ‘70s, but it’s always there. Americans have given generously to rebuild the country they nearly destroyed, but good intentions without an understanding of the culture are not enough. Almost every month I see a well-intentioned church group or small charity bring in sophisticated medical equipment that ends up rusting in a corner of the hospital, because it couldn’t withstand the humidity, the surges in electrical power, operating instructions only in English, or no parts or people to make repairs.

My lunch with Jack is, as always, a mixture of business and pleasure. We’re both endeavoring to do well by doing good. After lunch we shake hands and lament the absence of Jennifer and Marilynn. The bun cha (Vietnamese meatballs) was tasty, and they would have enjoyed it as well.

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At the close of the business day, Marilynn and I meet at The Refinery, an old opium factory turned watering hole that serves Western fare and Carlsberg draft. It’s 5:30 and already dark.

We find a table in the restaurant’s tented foyer and swap stories about our respective workdays. It’s wind down time, and the small, close knit, expat community is gathering in places like The Refinery. It’s collegial, refreshingly egalitarian, and communal. Expats in other parts of the world seldom enjoy the same small-town feel. Here, faces are familiar and there are nods of acknowledged commonality even if the names are unknown. In the expat tropics there is little social hierarchy.

On the ride home we sit back in the air-conditioned comfort of the cab. The skyline is awash in neon – Mercedes, Prudential, Dai-Ichi Life, Gucci, BP, Citibank, HSBC, Nike. Ho Chi Minh would be horrified, but international companies are homogenizing most of the world capitals. Saigon is no exception. Banana Republic and H&M bracket a local Pho restaurant.

Mr. Vinh slips the latch and greets us when we arrive at 95D. In at least one sense we’ve adapted. Our comfort zone has expanded so that we no longer notice the locked gate or see the barbed wire on top of the wall. As we enter, we catch the familiar whiff of cigarette smoke mingled with Indian spices spiraling down the stairway. We’re back in the cozy, warmth of 95D. This is home for now.

It’s 10 p.m. and the temperature is still over 80°. Tomorrow will be similar. Every day is an adventure, and an opportunity to make things better. The cause is worthy, but beyond that we’re beginning to understand why so many of our friends have chosen this life despite the noise, downpours, smells, sticky heat, and inconvenient power failures.

Will the country overcome its obstacles—the corruption, inefficient bureaucracy, hesitant foreign investors, poor infrastructure, and bankrupt banking system? The jury is still out, but I wouldn’t bet against the Vietnamese. Remember the “American War?”

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The walls are sweating. The AC cranks up. The ceiling fan circles above us. I turn out the light and pull the single sheet over us. A motorbike breaks the silence. NPR reports an early snowfall in Boston. Tomorrow is another day.

Helmville Summer

In early June my dad drove me up the dust-choking unpaved roads of rural Montana to meet the Mannix family and kick off my summer job as a ranch hand. When we arrived, introductions and small talk were made in the yard outside the house, and, though some big lightning scarred cottonwoods provided shade for the old two-story clapboard house with its screened-in porch, we were gathered near the car in the blazing hot sun.

I was 14 and my dad thought working on a ranch would be “good for me.” It was the life he knew growing up, and he wanted me to experience it too. I was never sure if his intention was to motivate me, punish me, or just find out if I had what it takes to survive, but I knew he thought we would both learn something if I spent a summer on a ranch.

As a kid, I was always uncomfortable with strangers, especially adults busy talking to each other while I stood awkwardly around. That day, as the adults talked in the hot Montana sun I shifted from foot to foot and wished the trickle of sweat would stop running down my side. I wanted them to stop and get on with it when the world started to spin, my vision narrowed, and everything went black.

When I came to, I was on the ground, covered with dirt, looking up at the adults. I don’t know who was more embarrassed, me, my father whose wimpy son had just passed out in front of strangers, my aunt who had gone to lengths to find me the job, or the Mannix family who were wondering what they were going to do with the city kid who had just fainted in their yard. Not exactly the kind of start any of us wanted.

The adults helped me up and everyone offered their explanations – too hot, needed water, no breakfast, etc. I sat on the bumper of the car, put my head between my knees, and sheepishly recovered. After a time, when they were satisfied that it wasn’t anything serious, my dad and Aunt Winnie left.  In later years I wondered how my dad felt when he left me that morning? Was he mad? Sad? Relieved? Worried? I’ll never know, because he’s gone now and we never talked about it.

When he and Winnie were gone, Mrs. Mannix, with her white hair and flour covered apron, marched me to the room in the cookhouse I would share with Glen, their 17-year-old ranch hand.

I was a soft city kid, but Glen was the tough, self-reliant person I wanted to be. He’d grown up in the San Joaquin Valley of California and migrated to Montana with a set of practical skills acquired on his family’s small plot of land. He dropped out of high school but was a street-smart hard worker and a good teacher. He could have made my life miserable that summer but he didn’t. I suppose he was glad to have the company.

He was about my height but solidly built with a deeply tanned face and ropey veined forearms. He always wore the same thing – Levi’s, a pale blue work shirt with mother of pearl snap buttons, a Levi jacket if it was cold in the morning, scuffed high top shoes and the same straw “cowboy style” hat all of us wore to shade our faces from the blistering summer sun.

In those first days he taught me how to mount the family’s old stallion bareback then roundup and lead their three cows back to the barn. I learned how to milk them without having them step on my foot or kicking over the bucket before delivering the steamy warm milk to Mrs. Mannix and her kitchen crew. It wasn’t complicated, but he also taught me how to slop the pigs and feed the chickens and still get to the cookhouse by 6:30 in time for breakfast. My arrival was a good deal for him. These had been his chores before my arrival, and he got to sleep an extra half hour as long as I was there.

The real work of summer began in July with the start of haying season. I arrived in mid-June, so was able to learn a little about farm routine in the month before haying season began. I learned how to build fences and stretch barbed wire without ripping my skin to shreds and how to work on farm equipment without losing a finger. By the end of the first week my soft hands and heels were covered with big watery blisters and my face was crisp with sunburn.

In early summer Montana ranchers take their cattle up to pastures near the tree line where it’s cooler. One day in June, Glen and I rode up the treacherously steep hillside in the Mannix pick up to check and make sure they were OK. The pastures are high above the valley floor and coming back down we were bushwhacking through tall grass in the truck. I was clutching the door handle with one hand and the dashboard with the other because it felt like we were about to pitch forward over the hood. I saw then how competent and confident Bert was but also how vulnerable and close to the bone things were in that world.

When haying season arrived just after the 4th of July my education kicked up another notch. Not only were the days long and hard but so were the new faces that showed up. They were all white in those days. Mexican labor was a couple of decades away and much more reliable. These white transients were a new breed to me – indigent, nameless, and unpredictable – following the sun north as the crops ripened. There was an air of jaw-clenching danger about them. Mrs. Mannix confided that I was bunking with Glen in the cookhouse because it wasn’t safe for me to stay in the bunkhouse. For the next six weeks Glen and I lived across the corral from them but shared meals in the cookhouse with an ever-changing group of derelicts -unsavory, Muscatel drinking, Sterno-sipping, knife packing itinerants who performed backbreaking labor in the fields for $8 -10 a day. They ignored me, but I was fascinated by them.

Modern equipment and haying practices came late to the Helmville Valley. That was one of the last years that hay was still cut and raked with horse drawn equipment and stacked by hand. Now it’s baled or spun into giant rolls by mechanical balers. Back then, the family’s one concession to mechanized farming was a Rube Goldberg home-built contraption called a bull-rake adapted from a 1936 Buick and equipped with long wooden prongs protruding parallel to the ground in front. It chugged and sputtered through the fields lowering the prongs and picking up and rows of freshly cut hay to be delivered to the stacking area. I loved the smell of the fresh cut hay, especially in the morning. It still reminds me of summer when I smell it.  

Once delivered to the stacking area the hay was loaded on a slanted panel called a “beaver-slide,” winched to the top, and dropped into a box made of moveable panels. If you were a “stacker” you stood inside the paneled area with a pitchfork and distributed the newly dumped hay evenly within the panels. Stacking paid more than the other jobs but it was also the dirtiest and hardest job. If you were in the stack you were covered with dust and seeds and barely breathable air.

In the beginning I operated the beaver-slide winch attached to the wheels of a pickup truck but I was greedy and wanted to be a stacker when I realized I could take home $2 more a day. The finished stacks were 12-15 feet high and there was no solid footing as they were going up. You stood inside the wooden frame and stomped around in the soft hay with a pitchfork trying to even it out. My second day as a stacker I drove one of the pitchfork’s tines through my boot and into my foot. Luckily, it came out as cleanly as it went in and didn’t cause any serious damage. I limped around for a few days but I was able to continue as a stacker.

When a stack was finished the stackers were winched down the beaver slide, the panels moved to another location, and a new stack started. I worked as a stacker for the last three weeks of haying season and when it was over I threw away all of my socks because no amount of washing could rid them of the burrs and seeds that worked their way into the knitted spaces and drove me to near madness.

Saturday night in ranch country is a true and abiding social ritual. It’s been extolled, lamented, sung about, and satirized in every conceivable way. In 1952 it was at the heart of my summer experience. On a ranch there is no such thing as a 40-hour workweek. Work is finished when it’s finished but, weather permitting, Sunday is a day of rest. When Saturday’s work is done it’s time to take a bath in a big, galvanized tub with hot water from the cookhouse stove and get ready for a night out. I had a clean pair of dark blue Levi 501’s and one soft cotton plaid shirt. That was my dress outfit. Saturday night was a breakaway event for ranch families and the college and high school kids who worked for them.

Glen, had a 10-year-old Chevy Coupe and Bert had a sleek new Mercury sedan with a vinyl roof – a classic of the day. Bert was only 10 years older, but that was a lifetime in those days. He also had a pretty, Helmville-raised, girlfriend named Darlene whom he married a couple of years later. He was a ruggedly handsome young rancher whose only concession to fashion was pair of Tony Lama ostrich boots and a light colored felt Stetson for the weekend. On Saturday night he would load Glen and me in the back of the Merc with Darlene in front and take us to town. We were on our own for getting home, but Saturday night in rural Montana is a group activity. There was always someone willing to round up the stragglers and take them home even though the houses were sometimes 10 or 15 miles apart.

The night always started with a movie, and it didn’t matter much what it was. There was no real theater in Helmville.  The movie was shown in the church or Grange Hall, and when it came to “The End,” about 9, it was straight to the bar – the one and only bar in Helmville. It was long, narrow, and jammed with people. Some of the old timers had been drinking since late afternoon. The rest of us filed in after the movie and bellied up. That’s right; at 14 Glen and I were ordering drinks in a Montana bar. Jack and Glen’s Excellent Adventure. I was scared at first and sure something embarrassing would happen. I wasn’t sure what that might be but I knew I was tempting fate, and there might be a scene of some sort. It only happened once, when I asked the woman behind the bar for a Seven and Seven. She stopped what she was doing, put both hands on the bar, and looked at me with a smirky little smile. I backed away and she went back to work. I didn’t try it with her again, but I had a beer in my hand within a minute or two.

About 10 P.M. all fueled up, the ranch hands and college kids started looking for action. There was usually a dance somewhere in the area – Seeley Lake or Ovando were the closest towns big enough to draw a band and a crowd. Glen or one of the other young ranch hands would organize it, and we would pile into the cars and head off to the dance. Seeley Lake is 60 miles north of Helmville, a resort of sorts – primitive in those days – with a couple of bars, a few cabins, and rowboat rentals on the lake. But the bars were big enough to host a band and provide a small dance floor where we would stand around eyeing the local girls and nursing beers and until it was 1 or 2 A.M. and time to leave for home.

One night after an excursion to Seeley Lake, Glen was driving us back to the ranch in his old Chevy Coupe, a friend riding shotgun, and me zonked out on the narrow back seat, when suddenly I was tumbling around, bouncing off the front seat, then the roof, then back on the seat and around again with the air full of dust, empty beer bottles, a Copenhagen tin, and a loose screwdriver as we rolled over and over down a grassy hill. Then silence.

I was terrified I might be the only one not dead and wondering what I would do if that was true. It seemed like minutes but it was probably only 15 or 20 seconds, before someone asked, “Is everyone OK?” There was another pause and then two tentative “I think so” replies. When it sank in that everyone was OK and that no one was seriously hurt the three of us climbed out through the passenger side door, which was now sky side up. We all had bruises and small cuts, but there were no broken bones or worse.

Glen had been going too fast, started to drift on a gravelly corner, and caught a tire in a Montana pothole. The car flipped to the outside of the turn and down the grassy embankment. When we were all out of the car and had surveyed the wreckage, the three of us climbed back up the bank and when we were on the road looked down at the car whose headlights were two yellow spots pointed at the sky.  We left the car. No police were called. A passing car picked us up and took us home. I don’t remember if Glen ever went back to claim the car. I sincerely believe the heavy steel and rigid frame of that old Chevy Coupe saved our lives. We had no seat belts or other protection, but cars were built of stronger materials in those days.  Was it the steel, good luck or fate? That may have been the first of my nine lives.

The following morning, I got up and everything seemed like it was back to normal, I rounded up the milk cows and did the chores. At breakfast I didn’t look Mrs. Mannix in the eye for fear she would ask a question I didn’t want to answer about the bruises and the night before. In the afternoon Glen and I tossed a football around the yard, and on Monday morning we were back in the field putting up stacks. 

At the end of August, it was over. My ranch adventure at an end. It was bittersweet. I hated to say goodbye, especially to Glen, but I was looking forward to seeing my friends at home. Aunt Winnie came up from Deer Lodge to retrieve me. We stopped at the Drummond Rodeo on the way home. It was her gift and a fitting way to close out my Montana summer.

_____

Fast forward to today…

I’ve always been proud of my Montana roots and maintained a connection there. My mom was born in Missoula and so was I. She attended school with Norman Maclean, the author of A River Runs Through It, and his brother Paul, the tragic sibling in the novel. Both of my parents graduated from the University of Montana and so did my daughter, Diana, and son-in-law Nick. My oldest son, Brent, graduated from Montana State in Bozeman and grandson, Will, started as a freshman at U of M last year. Four generations of Bernards rooted in western Montana soil.

A few years ago, I took Marilynn back to see Helmville, the Mannix ranch, Seeley Lake, and old Missoula. I went to the one-person Helmville Post Office and asked about the Mannix family. Yes, they were still there, she told me, and the ranch was bigger than ever. What was 8000 acres when I worked there is now 18,000 deeded and 30,000 leased acres. This is a big cattle and timber operation.

On our return to Seattle, I wrote the Mannix family asking about the members I knew back in the day. In return, I received a handwritten letter from Darlene. Bert, unfortunately, died a couple of years ago but Glen, my roommate, is still alive and lives nearby. Bert and Darlene’s three sons and their wives run the ranch now while Darlene enjoys her role as great-grandmother-in-chief.

Recently, I’ve been in touch with Logan Mannix, one of the fifth-generation, the next in line to take over. His curiosity and our back and forth has made me feel I’m part of their extended family. My summer in Helmville was a rite of passage, and it feels important to stay connected to the Mannix family.

The circle of life continues… because this winter my 18 year-old grandson, Will Price, is working on a ranch in Patagonia. I’m hoping his ranch experience is as memorable and satisfying as mine was 68 years ago in Helmville.

Tony B and Lady G: Music Masters Squared

The human brain may be the most astonishing byproduct of the great miracle of creation. It has enabled the specie to unpack secrets of the galaxy, travel to the moon and back, write War and Peace, paint the Mona Lisa and compose the Ninth Symphony. But, human life is finite, and the brain often fades before the rest of the organism lets go.

In 2001, at age 74, Tony Bennett released the first of a series of duet albums. It was called Playin’ with my Friends: Bennett Sings the Blues. The following year he teamed up with k.d. lang for A Wonderful World, the first of six duet albums with fellow artists collaborating on songs from the American songbook. Duets: An American Classic (2006), Duets II (2011), Cheek to Cheek with Lady Gaga (2014), Tony Bennett Celebrates 90 (2016), and Love for Sale, the second album with Lady Gaga (2021). Cheek to Cheek debuted at #1 on the Billboard 200. Love for Sale, released on September 30, 2021 came in at #8. Here’s the astonishing part.

In 2016, Tony’s wife Susan announced his Alzheimer’s Disease diagnoses. Scientists have long known that music is an effective therapy for Alzheimer’s patients. It can increase pleasure and slow the deterioration of memory loss, but that generally applies to those on the receiving end rather than the performing one. Nevertheless, Tony continued to perform…flawlessly, including two sold out Radio City Music Hall concerts with Lady Gaga in August of this year.

His neurologist, Dr. Gayatri Devi, explains that although he doesn’t remember facts or even performances (a week after the Radio City concerts, he had no memory of them) the music brain engages multiple other parts of the brain that include musical memory and performance.

I own all the duet albums but am especially fond of the Lady Gaga collaborations. Their first collaboration was a hip upbeat version of The Lady is a Tramp on the Duets II album in 2011, and it’s still my favorite. For years I regarded her as a pop music curiosity. I thought she was more interested in making outrageous entrances than making music. I continued to see Gaga, whose real name is Stephani Germanotta, as a fringe figure until her film debut opposite Bradley Cooper in A Star is Born. In the film she revealed herself both as a sensational singer (La Vie en Rose and I’ll Always Remember Us This Way) and songwriter (9 songwriting credits, including Oscar winner Shallow).

After A Star is Born, I began paying closer attention to her musical talent—and her remarkable affection for Mr. Bennett. These Bennett/Gaga partnership albums are not sentimental, end of life curiosities. We always knew he had exceptional phrasing, but the albums show Gaga’s great jazz and swing chops as well as the way she energizes and brings out the best in him.

With the Cheek to Cheek and Love for Sale albums, we see (videos) and hear masterful, original arrangements of these American songbook standards by two musical giants. The songs are old, but the arrangements and chemistry are fresh and exciting. Nothing sad or melancholy here.

You might remember that, following a similar diagnosis, Glen Campbell made a farewell tour with his children, reprising his old hits, including a documentary and farewell album. It was touching, but the whole thing had a sadly sentimental feel. Tony Bennett’s final act is as classy as his first #1 hit Because of You (1951) and his most iconic chart topper, I Left My Heart in San Francisco (1962).

Japan designates its best artists as “national treasures. The closest we come is a Kennedy Center Honor for lifetime achievement in the performing arts. Tony received that award in 2005. I can’t do justice to the what he and Lady Gaga achieved in their duets, but the whole of their collaboration is greater than the sum of its parts. And, the skill, love, friendship, and empathy Lady Gaga shows is astonishing. 

The CBS show 60 Minutes dedicated a segment to Tony’s “Final Act” just three weeks ago (October 3, 2021). If you haven’t seen it, it’s well worth the 13 minutes it takes – https://www.cbsnews.com/news/tony-bennett-lady-gaga-alzheimers-disease-60-minutes-2021-10-03/

As if the music weren’t enough, we also remember Tony was a well-respected painter. This is a sketch he did of Lady Gaga during one of their recording sessions, and the picture above the title of this blog is a view of Central Park from Tony and Susan’s apartment on Central Park South. He’s still with us but we need to honor his national treasure status while he is.

Photographs courtesy of CBS News. Painting from the online collection at BenedettoArts.com

Denmark, Dinesen, and Serendipity…

Coffee, according to the women of Denmark, is to the body what the Word of the Lord is to the soul.

Isak Dinesen aka Karen Blixen

Sometimes I’m overwhelmed by the mystery of personal connections. Six degrees of separation is just the tip of the iceberg. I never met Karen Blixen, but I knew a friend of hers, and the way we met and its consequences remain one of those enduring mysteries.  

In the winter of 1965, I was four months into a solo tour of Europe. I had traveled around southern Europe and the Middle East but wanted to see Germany and Scandinavia as well. It wasn’t the best time of year to visit, but I thought it might be my only opportunity. I flew from Istanbul to Frankfurt, took the train to Berlin, and after a few days there, opted to take the train to Copenhagen. That meant riding an East German train to the Danish ferry at Warnemunde. I thought it would be an adventure for an ex-US Marine to ride through the “evil empire.” But first I had to get from West Berlin to the station in East Berlin and transfer to the East German train.

I was alone and unsure of how to transfer when my West German train arrived at the Bahnhof in East Berlin. I climbed on the wrong train but the platform conductor noticed my mistake and helped me find the right one and get settled in a compartment. The only other passenger in the compartment was an older woman, and just before departure the conductor came back to whisper something to her. Later, she told me his words were, “Look after him. He’s an American.”

I’m not good at judging ages. I was 27 at the time and guessed her age as somewhere over 70. Maggie Andersen was returning to Copenhagen after visiting a dying friend in Berlin. I think the conductor’s concern gave her a reprieve from the sadness she was feeling. At first, I was just grateful for her company and conversation, but later it became became a genuine friendship. When the train arrived at Warnemunde to be loaded on the ferry, she invited me to join her in the ship’s dining room for a Danish smorgasbord buffet. Later, on the way to Copenhagen, she invited me to stay at her apartment.

I never really knew my grandmothers, but from that moment on I thought of her as my Danish grandmother. We stayed in touch and remained friends for more than 20 years. I visited her several times, had a brief affair with her “granddaughter” Jane, spent time at her seaside cottage, introduced her to my wife and kids when they came along, and on my last visit, shortly before she died, played the guitar, drank shots of Akvavit, and talked with her late into the night.

Today I found Jane’s Facebook page. I might not have recognized her, except that her profile picture, in an SAS ground hostess uniform, was taken around the time I knew her – 55 years ago – one of Facebook’s positive attributes in bringing friends back together. 

I’ve always related better to women than men. This is just one instance, but I know the story has legs. Time blurs memory. I know Maggie had an unhappy marriage to a Danish admiral who committed suicide. She had no children of her own, but raised Helle, Jane’s mother. When Helle left town she left Jane too, and Maggie adopted her. These relationships are a mystery, but without this weird setup I would never have met Jane.

As my friendship with Maggie grew, she introduced me to Karen Blixen’s writing, told me of their friendship, and showed me her house at Rungstedlund. I began to read her work, especially Seven Gothic Tales and Out of Africa and was mesmerized by her personal style. Lately, while reading about Beryl Markham, the first person to fly east to west across the Atlantic, I discovered that she and Karen were friends in Africa, and that they were involved in a love triangle with Denys Finch-Hatton, the safari guide/pilot who gave Markham her first flying lessons. 

When Maggie learned of my interest in literature, she gave me her soft leather-bound copy of Walt Whitman’s Leaves of Grass, a book she had given her father in 1922 but got back when he died. Today, I learned that Finch-Hatton gave the same book to Karen Blixen. Another mysterious coincidence. Sadly, I’ve let the soft leather deteriorate but I’ve found a talented book binder who has done some minor repairs and is building a beautiful box to keep it in. 

Jane and I are catching up on the long break in our friendship thanks to Facebook. Six degrees of separation doesn’t begin to unravel these mysterious, complicated, serendipitous, encounters.

Karen Blixen had it right, but it isn’t only the women of Denmark who think coffee is “what the Word of the Lord is to the soul.” My friend,Todd Rippo, owner of Java on Fourth in Ketchum, Idaho serves a special coffee called a “bowl of soul.” I think of him often as I’m brewing my morning latte. 

Maggie’s Thatch-roofed Cottage on Zealand