Then and Now…

In the waning days of World War II, France was deeply divided. Invaded in 1940, it quickly capitulated and for four years was humiliated by the German occupation and puppet government in Vichy. 

Local Resistance cells were established throughout the country to aid the Allies and Free French Forces of General Charles de Gaulle’s government in exile, but the majority of French citizens kept their heads down, went carefully about their business, and submitted to the humiliating occupation. 

As the war dragged on the Resistance gained strength, but toward the end it splintered. Factions fought internally and jockeyed for dominance. Today we see them as heroic freedom fighters, but they were deeply divided. And, there was a lot of score-settling against those thought to be collaborators.

All this is described and documented in two recent books about the period – Lynne Olson’s non-fiction thriller Madame Fourcade’s Secret War and Harriet Welty Rochefort’s novel Final Transgression. Olson chronicles the story of the woman who led France’s largest Resistance cell, and Rochefort’s novel recounts the ordeal of a woman caught between her own personal drama and the war’s tensions and factions.

It may seem a stretch, but the current divide in America has similarities. Most Americans are keeping their heads down, going about their business, hoping to escape the scourge of coronavirus while others are engaged in political warfare. 

Some, on the far right, feeding off the inflammatory rhetoric of Donald Trump, have chosen a violent frontal attack on elected officials and institutions while the Black Lives Matter movement copes with the deaths of more than a dozen unarmed black Americans at the hands of white policemen.

America is under attack. The Capitol Building was breached. Five people died. Law enforcement was overwhelmed. Statues smashed. Windows broken. Doors splintered. Offices ransacked. Items stolen.

Vigilantes roamed the halls and chambers with zip ties, a noose, knives, clubs and small arms looking for the Vice-President, Speaker of the House, Senators and Representatives and staff.

In Harriet Rochefort’s novel Final Transgression, an innocent woman is executed because she was in the wrong place with the wrong people. Last week, an unarmed black man was shot by a Columbus Ohio policeman while holding his cellphone up to show he was unarmed. He was in the wrong place at the wrong time. A hair trigger mistake – like Breonna Taylor.

America is in the throes of mob violence, egged on by a Mob boss and his family, following a failed run for president. And it’s not over. 75 million people voted for him and more than half of them believe his lie that the election was stolen. So much of what makes a nation like ours work is based on good faith and good intentions. The rule of law and the social contract depend on them.

In 1940, jack-booted Germans marched down the Champs-Elysée, and ordinary French citizens wept at the sight. There are no jack-boots on Pennsylvania Avenue yet despite Trump’s sacking of the Pentagon leadership. So far, the miliitary is staying in its own apolitical lane. 

Next Wednesday, at high noon there will be a transfer of power in Washington. President-Elect Joe Biden has said he is not afraid to take the oath of office outside on the inaugural platform. Four-star General Barry McCaffery thinks the ceremony should be moved inside the Capitol to as a precaution. Donald Trump will be nowhere near the action, and that’s good, but his goons will be there. I agree with General McCaffery. We should minimize the risk.

Donald Trump is toast after Wednesday’s Capitol carnage. Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and Amazon have silenced his voice. His banks have pulled the plug. His donors are fleeing. Corporations have announced they will not support his acolytes and defenders, and the PGA has canceled next year’s PGA Championship at Bedminster. Today the House of Representatives will vote on an Article of Impeachment.

At his Save America Rally prior to the American Carnage experience at the Capitol, Donald Trump Jr. told his father’s enemies, “We’re coming for you. And it will be fun.” Little did he realize those same words might be applied to his family’s criminal enterprise and become the FBI, Justice Department, and the US Congress’s refrain in 2021.

Trump had visions of a jackbooted parade with tanks and missiles driving down Pennsylvania Avenue last year. The Resistance helped defeat the Germans. Hitler died in the Berlin bunker. What will Donald Trump’s fate be?

Who Knows Where the Time Goes?

Sometimes good fortune feels like destiny. Stars align and something magical occurs. In the spring of 2001, before 9/11 and 20 years before Covid-19, Marilynn and I rode our bikes from Bordeaux through the Dordogne in southwestern France. No itinerary, just three weeks alone rolling through the countryside. 

We had grown up together, married other people, and were back together after a 40-year break. I had traveled a lot in those 40 years. She had done some but wanted to do more. I asked if she would be willing to try it on a bicycle. She was game and we were off on the first of our ten self-supported bike trips.

We had no set itinerary, just a general plan. Look at the map, work out a tentative destination and go. On that trip we put the bikes together in the parking lot at the Bordeaux airport and rode north toward Margaux and the vineyards of the Medoc. The day was unseasonably hot and traffic leaving the airport was intense. M hates hot weather and dense traffic. Not a promising start but we were finally on the road. 

After an hour of heat ripples and diesel fumes our water bottles were dry and we needed something cool to drink. Unfortunately, between 2 and 6pm French business is out of business. Nothing was open, but we eventually found a bar (closed) where the patron sold us four bottles of Perrier. I poured two over M’s head to cool her off and we drank the other two before resuming the ride north.

We arrived in Margaux late that afternoon only to discover there were no rooms near our price range. The woman at the Syndicat suggested an auberge “about 10km” up the road. 10km is a long way when the sun is setting and your ass is dragging, but we pressed on. It was full too.

Out of pity, the owner of the auberge called back to Margaux and got us a room at one of the pricey chateaux – way over budget.

When we walked in, after retracing the 10km, the woman at reception looked at us as if we were vermin – tired, sunburned, sweaty, and bedraggled – but she grudgingly give us a key to the room. The good news is that we travel light and know how to do it. After showering we dug into our paniers and retrieved our formal attire – always the same – upscale black T-shirts, black jeans, and loafers. When we returned for dinner she nearly fell over; at first failing to recognize us and then treating us like royalty. 

That night we ate on the chateau’s terrace overlooking the vineyard and split a bottle of Margaux’s finest. A memorable day to be sure.

_____

After Day One things got better. The region is phenomenal – scenic, uncrowded, and quintessentially French. We drank the wine of the region, ate foie gras in Perigord, visited the caves at Lascaux, and rode part of the Tour de France course. But, the best and most lasting memory of the trip was a detour that triggered my remark about good fortune, destiny and unplanned magic.

About ten days into the trip, we saw a sign tacked to a fence advertising a B&B. The detour took us off the beaten track and meant climbing a hill then waiting for a shepherd and his flock to clear the road, but eventually we found it in the middle of nowhere–no other houses or village close by. I don’t know how they made it profitable, but Ian and Anne Arnold, two Brit expats, were exceptional hosts we bonded with immediately over a glass of wine and the two big Gibson guitars leaning against the wall.

Ian had driven a big rig (lorry) until his back gave out, and Anne had been a bookkeeper somewhere in the Midlands. They cashed in their life savings and bought this house on the edge of Parc Naturel Regional des Causses. (Think of the sweetest fromage bleu in France). They built a second apartment and small swimming pool on the property and began their life as innkeepers an hour’s ride from Rocamadour, one of the most picturesque villages in France.

That night Ian and I played guitars and drank a couple bottles of local wine along with Anne’s delicious dinner. But the Arnold’s lasting gift was introducing us to the music of Eva Cassidy.

If you don’t recognize the name, Eva Cassidy was an American folk/blues singer who died of melanoma at age 33 and became a huge hit in the UK posthumously. For ten years following her death she topped the charts in UK record sales. She’s, without doubt, my favorite female singer.

Before M gets up, I often listen to her. Last week, I paid special attention to Who Knows Where the Time Goes, the Sandy Denny (Fairport Convention) song. Its words have special meaning at this time of life.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_5rjM10Chs

M and I lost track of Ian and Anne a few years ago. We exchanged a letter or two, but the address we had no longer works. When I tried to find them recently I learned that they sold the B&B in 2005. Life is like that. It was one night in rural France 20 years ago. Unplanned but magical. Good fortune feels like destiny.

Who knows where the time goes?

Art in the Pandemic Era…

If art, music, dance, or theater were an important part of your world earlier, the pandemic has turned it upside down. With the ability to travel, attend events and visit museums limited, we have been left casting about for alternatives. Art is meant to be experiential—best when it’s a one-on-one experience with the original. 

A picture can’t begin to deliver the feeling of standing next to Michelangelo’s statue of David at the Accademia in Florence. In its presence the stone pulses with energy, muscles ripple, veins throb and eyelids almost blink.

But, in the Covid-19 era we have to make do with facsimiles – photographs, recordings, videos, and webinars mixed with our own personal memories. At a remove – second best – but still satisfying. 

Recently, two of my favorite artists, Tony Foster and Donald Judd, were subjects of webinars—the art galleries of the pandemic. Tony is an English watercolorist whom I have known for almost 30 years, and Donald Judd, is the eccentric monumental minimalist (my label) who took over a Texas town and turned it into an art destination. I’ve been a fan of both for years and this month both were celebrated in online webinars.

Tony was interviewed by Duncan Robinson the former director of both the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge and the Yale Center for British Art, and a few days later David Zwirner hosted a webinar honoring Donald Judd, who died in 1994, and whose retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art with simultaneous exhibits at Zwirner’s three New York galleries is the biggest art event of this very difficult year. 

Before I started this essay, I asked Tony if I could use online reproductions of his work and he enthusiastically agreed. He told me he’d “be pleased to be next to Donald Judd.”

Tony is not, as you may have guessed, your average watercolorist. The Cornwall native is as much explorer and environmentalist as he is painter. His studio is “the world’s wild places” where for over 40 years he has set about creating Journeys – paintings of mountains and canyons, rainforests and deserts, the Arctic and tropics–no small achievement for a watercolor artist. 

This is Tony on one of his Journeys – scrolled paper in the tube, a portable chair and easel, a paintbox the size of an Altoid tin, and a handful of very expensive sable brushes – always the same whether he’s painting the South American rainforest, Everest at the 18,000’ level, the jungles of Borneo, the waterfalls of Guyana, or descending into the Grand Canyon.

I met Tony through a friend who had traveled with him on some of his Journeys. Then, in 1998, they invited me to join them on an 18-day raft trip down the Colorado where Tony planned to paint a suite of Grand Canyon paintings.

It was a remarkable trip and watching Tony work as we descended through that majestic canyon gave me an enhanced appreciation for how he delivers his creative and environmental vision. These are not sketchbook size works; the largest are up to 7′ long, and all include written diary notes, small artifacts, and maps of the areas explored. Tony sees these wild places as endangered remnants of earth’s history and feels compelled to memorialize, highlight, and preserve them.

His work is also unusual in that some early admirers recognized that the paintings in each Journey were part of a collective vision, and hoped individual paintings would not be sold piecemeal. As a result, a fund was created and a 14,000 square foot museum/gallery, named The Foster, was built in Palo Alto, California, to house, rotate, and display the work as a whole. In non-Covid times, The Foster is open to the public. Check out the website at thefoster.org. for regular hours.

It would be difficult to imagine a greater contrast in visual art than Tony’s detailed small scale watercolors and Donald Judd’s large sculptural work. I admire both–their range, variety, and differences in aesthetic–but they are polar opposites in scale.

In the 1950s, Donald Judd was an successful artist/art critic based in New York City but by 1971 he became disenchanted with the New York art scene and needed more space. Earlier, he had fallen in love with West Texas, so in 1973 he purchased two large army hangers in the town of Marfa, followed in 1979 by the purchase of Fort D.A. Russell, a decommissioned Army base. Judd was an artist with a “monumental” vision.

The story of Donald Judd and Marfa is fascinating and well-documented in a coffee-table book created by the Chinati Foundation, the non-profit he created to “present and preserve a select number of permanent installations inextricably linked to the surrounding landscape.”

In 1986, he began inviting artists he admired to integrate their works into Chinati (named for the nearby mountains). When you own an Army base there’s room for almost anything, and Donald Judd gave each of eleven artist friends a barracks building to create and integrate their artistic visions. Among the famous artists in this group are Dan Flavin, Claes Oldenburg, and Carl Andre.

M and I visited Marfa on a tour of West Texas in 2018. Fifty years after Judd moved to Marfa, it’s become a well-established art destination, e.g. one day at lunch we spotted Anthony Bourdain in the restaurant, and later that year the Marfa installment of Parts Unknown was one of the last he did before his suicide. We spent three days in Marfa including a day long private tour of Chinati led by Sterry Butcher, a local who writes a monthly column for Texas Monthly. Great trip.

My favorite example of Judd’s eccentric vision is this hangar, filled with 100 milled aluminum “boxes,” each of which is different though they share identical dimensions. Judd redesigned the hangar, added floor to ceiling windows so the only light admitted would be natural light allowing the boxes to change color as the sun moves across the West Texas prairie.

An enormous amount has been written about both of these artists, but I was taken as much by the idea of how we experience art during the pandemic as by the art itself. I feel the same about music, film, dance, and theater, so I plan to write about those experiences in upcoming posts. They are art at a remove, but they are not unsatisfying…just different. Watch this space.

A Trump Allegory…

Over the years I’ve tried on several iterations of Christian orthodoxy–I was baptized Catholic (grandmother’s wish), then went on to Congregational Presbyterian, Unitarian, and Episcopalian versions. Sometimes my engagement was passionate, sometimes not, but I settled on being an Episcopalian 30 years ago because I liked the rituals – the smells and bells – Catholic without those politics. My attitude changed when a rigidly conservative vestry forced my friend, Robert Taylor, Dean of St. Mark’s Cathedral, to resign. He was a star, but gay, and that got under their skin. Since then I’ve felt a kind of benign indifference.

I include this personal history to give some credibility to what I’m about to write. I’m not unfamiliar with Christian apologetics and greatly admire some of its better writers – Diedrich Bonhoeffer, Paul Tillich, Reinhold Niebuhr, Karen Armstrong, and C.S. Lewis – but it’s Lewis that’s been on my mind lately.

He’s the author of the enormously successful, sometimes controversial, series of novels The Chronicles of Narnia (seven volumes of Young Adult fiction that includes The Lion, the Witch, and the WardrobePrince Caspian etc.) and the subject of the award winning 1993 biopic Shadowlands.

The reason Lewis has been on my mind lately is an article by Garrett Epps in the latest Atlantic magazine in which the author uses Lewis’ fable The Screwtape Letters as an allegory for the Trump era. The Screwtape, of the title, is a senior devil and the book is a collection of 31 letters Screwtape sends to a junior devil named Wormwood advising him on how to reap souls for his master below. 

Epps does a masterful job of drawing the parallels. “In Letter VII, Screwtape, the senior demon, reveals hell’s long-term strategy for the modern world: to produce people who do not believe in God but do believe, in some vague way, in magic: ‘If once we can produce our perfect work—the Materialist Magician, the man, not using, but veritably worshipping, what he vaguely calls ‘Forces’ while denying the existence of ‘spirits’—then the end of the war [against God] will be in sight.

That image—of those who worship force while denying spirit—has haunted me ever since; it epitomizes the dilemma of a human society in moral free fall because it has without knowing it, abandoned belief in its own pretended first principles.

In the age of Trump, we are seeing a legal incarnation of Screwtape—the lawless legalist who worships the law as force but denies the existence of its spirit.”

In this allegory, Epps sees Attorney General William Barr as Screwtape and The Donald as his Wormwood (how apt).

Screwtape (Barr) believes in an all-powerful dominating executive, secrecy, the absence of oversight, and abhors judicial review. “The president is not above the law; the president is the law.” This is the so-called “unitary executive” and Screwtape has been its biggest advocate since he was a junior lawyer in the Reagan White House. Wormwood laps it up. Two generations of able minds have “spun the fable” that the Founders intended the president to be a kind of dictator – though, of course, they don’t use that language. 

“Like Screwtape’s materialist magician, Barr, the lawless legalist, embodies force without spirit; constitutionalism without liberty; democratic form without self-government. For two generations, he and people like him have been working to bring this vision to reality. They are on the verge of victory.”

Let’s hope not. Wormwood is flailing. With 42 days until the inauguration, he is ranting like Mad King Ludwig and the courtiers are scrambling to find any possible way to keep him on the throne. 

The Trump era is probably the end of America as we knew it, but it is not the end of America all together. It can be rebuilt, but it will take time, energy, resources, creativity, cooperation, and patience. Screwtape and Wormwood have done immeasurable harm in the last four years. I don’t expect to live long enough to see the institutions fully restored, but my fingers are crossed for my children, grandchildren and beyond. Let’s send Screwtape and Wormwood back where they came from, just as they tried to do to millions of immigrants.

See Garrett Epps full article, Worshipping the Law While Denying its Spirit https://www.theatlantic.com/ideas/archive/2019/11/cs-lewis-bill-barr/602623/

Some Pilots’ Pilots…

John Glenn died on December 8, 2016 – four years ago today – at age 95. Chuck Yeager died yesterday at age 97. I didn’t know either of them, but they were models for the kind of pilot and person I aspired to be. Extraordinary men who led remarkable lives and became legends in their own lifetimes.

It’s difficult to write anything original about them. Their biographies are exemplary and posted everywhere, but what strikes me today is the contrast between these citizen heroes and the cowards currently serving in Congress and the White House. These two giants were courageous, quiet, hard-working Americans who answered the call to service, delivered in multiple wars and later in peacetime. John Glenn served 24 years as a US Senator from Ohio following his career as a Marine Corps fighter pilot and astronaut.

My reflections on Glenn and Yeager were reinforced by a podcast I listened to over the weekend. Chuck Rosenberg, former Chief of Staff at the FBI and US Attorney for the Eastern District of Virginia, is now an NBC contributor with a podcast of his own called The Oath. There, he interviews interesting people, some you’ve heard of and some you haven’t. Last week’s was an hour and a half with Captain Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger, another pilot legend.

“Sully” is not an unknown quantity. Following his flawless “miracle on the Hudson” landing, he became everyone’s favorite authority on aviation matters, and his no nonsense straight talk was always reassuring and refreshingly honest.

The Rosenberg podcast interview, like the one he did with Special Counsel Robert Mueller this week, is less about his newsworthy history and more about how he was prepared for his decisive moment in the spotlight. It’s an inspiring story. Like John Glenn’s wife Annie and Joe Biden, Sully stuttered as a child. He overcame the handicap through hard work, by speaking slowly in front of a mirror, and with the wholehearted support of his family. I remember Colin Firth doing the same in The King’s Speech, the Oscar winning film about Queen Elizabeth’s father George VI.

I’ve been an admirer of Sully’s since “the miracle,” but not so much for his airmanship which was perfect but for his leadership following the water landing. He calmly directed his crew and passengers to disembark using the evacuation slides, and when they were all safely off he made a final walk-through of the cabin to make sure no one was left behind. He was last person to deplane. That’s what calm, courageous leadership looks like.

In the interview with Rosenberg, he details his normal childhood in Denton, Texas, where there was an Air Force base nearby. Even as a child he was fascinated with aviation and determined to learneverything he could about it. His first piloting experience, as a teenager, was in a taildragger that required him to hand crank the prop and then hop on the wing to get to the cockpit.

The podcast is particularly interesting when he talks about the lessons he learned as a child and later at the Air Force Academy. Solid values of honesty, hard work, attention to detail and devotion to duty.

Unlike John Glenn and Chuck Yeager, neither Sully nor I served in a war. I flew the same airplane as John Glenn (F8 Crusader) but left the Marine Corps before the Vietnam War expanded. Sully, who flew the F4 Phantom, didn’t finish flight training until the war was over.

Chuck Yeager is credited with 11.5 kills in WWII and John Glenn shot down 3 MIG-15s in a ten day period in Korea. Neither Sully nor I were tested in battle. Sully’s test came in 2009 when a flock of Canada geese flew into the engines of his Airbus A320-214. Shot down by a flock of geese. How humiliating…but a life-or-death emergency, nevertheless. Sully’s quick thinking and superb airmanship saved 155 lives that day. I was never tested in these ways.

I loved the Marine Corps, just as Sully loved the Air Force. They gave us unprecedented opportunities to fly the world’s best fighters, but there is life after the military and we both moved on to commercial aviation.

After a movie was made about the first group of astronauts, Chuck Yeager was asked if he thought he had the “right stuff.” His answer was simple, “All I know is that I worked my tail off learning how to fly and worked hard at it all the way. If there is such a thing as the right stuff in piloting then it is experience.” The same might have been said by Colonel Glenn, Captain Sullenberger, or even me if asked the same question.

These three are aviation legends. All three are leaders who demonstrated courage and leadership under stress. Going back to the beginning of this essay…note the contrast between these three and the cowards now occupying the White House and Congress. Are the Republicans in Congress so fearful that they won’t stand up to an ignorant sore loser who’s undermining our democratic institutions and the integrity of our elections?

It’s shameful. C’mon now; mask up, do your homework, pay attention to the details, and learn to work with your colleagues. We need leaders, men and women, who know right from wrong and are not afraid to call it out? Trump wanted his Roy Cohn; I want my Chuck Yeager, John Glenn, and Sully Sullenberger. Mask up folks. Get to work. This may take a while.