Urn Baby Earn… Planning Ahead

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Nora Ephron is famous for saying, “Everything is copy.” She never failed to amuse as she told stories from her own life. Oh, how I wanted a direct channel to her off center view of the world yesterday. It was one of a kind.

On a dreary late fall Seattle day the cold, wet, gray weather seemed just right as M and I headed into the city to prepay our own cremation expenses. Macabre?  Sure, but the responsible adult living somewhere deep within me told me it would be smart to take care of business, clean up the mess, tie up loose ends, and make it easy for the kids. Nevertheless, all the way to the destination I kept thinking it was perfect material for a Nora Ephron-like piece. The woman who wrote “I Feel Bad About My Neck” would surely find plenty to work with in prepaying for her own cremation.

When you’re closer to the end than the beginning it’s time to take inventory, and though it is that time and the smart thing to do there’s still something creepy about tinkering around with your own death. What’s definitely right about all of this prepaid business is that it’s no fun to be on the other end, no pun intended, and suddenly be responsible for the arrangements when a parent dies.

I know what it’s like to fly into town and be confronted by the myriad tasks and arrangements that need to be made. What did he/she want? Should there be a memorial service, a celebration of life, a viewing, a wake, when and where, cremation or burial, death certificates, is there a will, where is it, what does it say, was there anything about organ donations, obituary, who gets notified, etc.?

So, in that spirit and acknowledging a visceral hatred of morticians and other agents in death’s sales force, we did some research. My friend Pat Kile’s husband, David, is a retired minister so I called David for advice. I told him we didn’t want the deluxe pewter coffin with French silk and Belgian lace. We didn’t want the clergyman in the black suit who didn’t know us or the chorus of professional mourners singing Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Rather, we wanted a quick cremation and a cardboard box for the ashes.

Where could we get what we wanted and avoid the sales pitch? David delivered. People’s Memorial is the death industry’s TJ Maxx. For less than a grand we get picked up and delivered to the Co-op Funeral Home (of People’s Memorial). We get “sheltering and refrigeration.” Not sure what “sheltering” is or about the refrigeration part since I’m a California boy at heart and hate to be cold. Nevertheless, that’s part of the package. Then it’s burn baby burn. When that’s done the ashes go in this tasteful plastic container and cardboard box ready for pick up by our next of kin.

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But wait; there’s more. Like the TV guy selling Vegematics at 2 a.m. there is more. No, not a carrot peeler or potato masher but the basic cremation package does include 5 certified copies of the Death Certificate, complimentary carbon offsets to equal the carbon dump of the burn, a complimentary tree planted in honor of the deceased (me/us), and payment of the King County Medical Examiner tax, plus 9.6% sales tax. Not bad, eh?

Well, here’s where we had second thoughts; in addition to the honorable service we were providing our children, we needed to get this done within the three months in order pick up 70,000 miles on our Delta Platinum American Express card. That’s enough for a roundtrip to Europe. Bingo! Great idea! Death benefits and free travel in the same package.

I’m afraid our travel plans shocked Kimberly, the very nice young woman who was helping us. She kept smiling as we celebrated our dual conquests – prepaid death benefits and a free flight to Europe. Unfortunately, she said, People’s Memorial only takes Visa or MasterCard – no American Express. Huge disappointment, as The Donald would say. Great idea but no cigar. We ended up putting our post-death benefits on a Visa card and collecting 2000 points – far from the roundtrip fare to Europe we planned on but a nudge in that direction.

Too bad we didn’t earn those 70,000 points for the burn and urn, but I’ve had my eye on an Italian espresso machine complete with a full compliment of bells and whistles. We’re going to Europe one way or another and if it means buying the Ferrari of espresso machines to get there, so be it. We’re definitely not going to let Delta wrangle us out of our travel perks this time – like they did in 1991 when I got screwed out of my pension and travel benefits because Delta pushed Pan Am into bankruptcy.

RIP Pan Am. I’m not in a hurry to join you in the boneyard but when I do it’s all prepaid. Cheers.

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Be Kind. Make Art. Fight the Power…

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“Everything that has a beginning has an ending. Make your peace with that and all will be well”      

– Buddha

I’m trying…

Trying to stand up and rebalance after the political knockdown. Trying to refocus on the positive. Trying to take my cues from Colson Whitehead, this year’s National Book Award winner, who celebrated the redeeming power of art in his acceptance speech last night. His mantra for all of us – “Be kind to everybody, make art, and fight the power.”

Good advice. I’m exhausted from the turmoil of the news cycle. Be positive. Stop whining. Look forward. Live honestly. Celebrate integrity and take comfort in reading, writing, and living the values I hope will inform the future our children and grandchildren’s will inherit.

Two weeks ago Robert Olen Butler read from his new novel, Perfume River at my local bookstore (Third Place Books) in Lake Forest Park. Mr. Butler is the 1993 Pulitzer Prize winning author of A Good Scent from a Strange Mountain, a collection of short stories sourced from his experience as a Vietnamese-speaking US military interpreter during the “American War.” I read A Good Scent…  around the time it was published but didn’t appreciate how good it was until I reread it while working in Saigon.

As an admirer of creative fiction I was astonished at the way this American writer was able to inhabit the characters of an old Vietnamese woman, a VC sapper, an American GI deserter, and a young Viet Kieu girl. Like a great actor, the author became these characters. I was so impressed on rereading the stories that I sent him an email asking if I could visit while in Florida on a work assignment.  He agreed and I drove 421 miles out of my way to do it.

Butler lives in Capps, Florida, a T-intersection near Tallahassee, in an old plantation house filled with books and shelves lined with “hot” sauces –two of his obsessions. The house is on the National Register of Historic Places just a few miles from Florida State University where he teaches creative writing.

“Ibutlers-library‘ll never stop believing it: Robert Olen Butler is the best living American writer, period,” (Jeff Guinn, book editor for the Fort Worth Star-Telegram).

There are a number of exceptional American writers but Robert Olen Butler, is unquestionably one of the best. The 71 year-old, five times married author, has published 16 novels, 4 collections of short stories, and a seminal work for aspiring writers called From Where You Dream: The Process of Writing Fiction.

When I pulled up to the house – literally pulled up to the house because there is just a hard flat piece of ground ending at its steps – I was greeted like an old friend. “Come on up” he said. I climbed the stairs and entered a large simply furnished room. He led me through the house, a jumble of rooms filled with books. My kind of place. If you’ve ever toured the colonial homes of our Founding Fathers you’ll know what I mean, many small rooms with high ceilings but no discernible floor plan.

After the house tour and some small talk he asked if I liked Mexican food. I do. “Let me grab my coat and I’ll take you to the best Mexican restaurant in the country.” Sixteen miles north, in Monticello, near the Florida-Georgia line, the Rancho Grande looks like a typical Mexican café – high backed wooden booths, bright yellow walls with royal blue trim decorated with sombreros and serapes. But appearances can be, as they say, deceiving, and Butler was right; the food was some of the best Mexican I’ve ever eaten. I ordered the special Lunch Fajitas with rice and beans and washed them down with a Dos Equis Dark. Delicious.

During our meal we talked about writing fiction and the outline of our lives. He asked how many times I’d been married and laughed when I said three. He told me I was one behind.”  Actually now it’s two, since then he’s divorced number four and married number five. Last week he told me he thought he was over his compulsive need to “commit.”

After lunch we drove back to Capps and he took me around to the small outbuilding that serves as his office/studio (also lined with books). He had just signed a contract to write two thrillers based on a short story written years before. There was no artifice about him. He asked me about myself and seemed genuinely interested. He asked if I read thriller fiction and if so what authors I liked. He was looking for models. I told him I admired Alan Furst, and he quickly said “Yes, but I think the characters are a little thin.” I wouldn’t have said that but he’s the expert. His characters always jump off the page as real people.

Our afternoon together passed quickly but he never made me feel it was time to go. When it was over, I thanked him and left behind a stack of books I brought for him to sign. Then I drove to the FSU campus to see where he teaches. Nice place. Two weeks later the box of books arrived in Seattle, each with personalized inscription. Bob Butler is a class act.

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I’m reading Perfume River now and seeing in it my own Vietnam experience as well as universal and personal family issues. There’s no shortage of literary hanky panky here. The protagonist is a 70-year-old Vietnam vet, now a professor at FSU, who by virtue of the imminent death of his father must confront a number of long buried issues, personal, familial, and global. There are dysfunctional marriages, mistaken identities, a doppelganger homeless man, and reflections on family and mortality. It dexterously shifts back and forth between the war in Vietnam, the protagonist’s pre-war family, and his present day life in Florida. The scope is global but it’s grounded in the particular – something he implores his students to strive for. I’m not finished with the book but I’m savoring every word. Perfume River is an important new novel from a writers’ writer. It’s also a great launch point for me with Colson Whitehead’s mantra ever in the background.

Be kind to everybody, make art, and fight the power.

Electile Dysfunction…

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Unlike the erectile dysfunction email that fills my Spam folder, I haven’t found a way to block the electile dysfunction rhetoric that is filling my Inbox, Facebook, and news feeds. And I know I’m not alone; even Ringling Brothers, Barnum and Bailey is worried. Last week it registered a complaint about calling the election a circus. It’s giving the circus a bad name.

Given the current state of affairs I don’t have any faith that the noise will die down after November 8th. I’m afraid it’s likely to get louder when less than half the people are celebrating and more than half are cringing. Optimist that I am, I’m still looking for the silver lining but it’s not easy when the swamp is churning with smarmy, secretive truth-shaders, habitual liars, and sexual predators. Isn’t there any way we can spin this and minimize the creepy cringe worthy aspects?

What if we peel off the top layer – Hillary and the Donald – and see what it looks like underneath? Given that nobody’s perfect, I see the two Vice-Presidential candidates as more like the old paradigm – and they pass the smell test. I don’t have to hold my nose when I think about either one of them. Democrat Tim Kaine and Republican Mike Pence both appear to be men of good character, solid values, and proven leadership qualities. Both served their home states in Congress and have governed at the state level. I like Kaine’s politics better, but Pence, in spite of his defense of “he who shall not be named,” projects character, leadership and values honestly held. I wouldn’t be happy but I could probably live with a Pence presidency.

And then there’s the Commander-in-Chief/nuclear codes issue; neither Kaine nor Pence served in the military, but I find it reassuring to note that both have sons serving on active duty with the Marine Corps. Flash back to last summer when Pence’s avatar attacked a Gold Star family whose 100% American son, Captain Humayun Khan, gave his life to save his American comrades in Iraq. When asked to respond to Khan senior’s charge that Trump had “sacrificed nothing” for his country, The Donald said “I think I’ve made a lot of sacrifices. I work very, very hard” and employ “thousands and thousands of people.” Really Mr. Trump? Sacrifice?

We haven’t had a President or VP with military experience since George H.W. Bush left office in 1993. (Don’t get me started on the cut and run antics of George W). I want a thoughtful Commander-in-Chief and I prefer to have one with some skin in the game rather than a Dick Cheney Trump-like character who avoided service with multiple deferments but has no problem sending other people’s children to war. With that in mind, I prefer either VP candidate to be my Commander-in-Chief. They both have skin in the game.

Democracy is messy and the choices we’ve been offered this time are deeply flawed – each in a different way – but deeply flawed. I don’t like either one of them. Our political system isn’t working. It isn’t voter fraud, but it might be Citizens United. It’s not working because unlimited campaign money on both sides is “rigging” the election. We have the best government money can buy and it stinks. “We the people” have been disenfranchised by wealthy donors and special interests. If Citizens United is overturned, we might regain our ability to hold elected officials to a higher standard. We might be able to apply pressure and force them to work together for the good of the country.

Every four years we elect a President, Vice-President, 30+ senators, and 435 representatives. We’ll be doing it again next week. The system may not be broken but it’s in serious need of  repair. Remember Spiro Agnew? Unless you’re my age you might not, but he was Richard Nixon’s corrupt Vice-President forced to resign in disgrace when his corrupt activities and tax evasion were uncovered. And, speak of the devil; Richard Nixon, also forced to resign when his criminal involvement in Watergate was revealed. The system may be cumbersome but it does work.

I love this Barbara Kruger mural at the Hirshhorn Museum in Washington. Maybe hers is the answer. Maybe we just need to restore sanity to the electoral process. We need to throw a little doubt over our belief systems in order to solve the equation.

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I have faith that handicapped as it is our system can recover its balance. America is resilient, and, in spite of the current rhetoric, it is great right now. We don’t need a savior to make it great again. What we need are people of character and good values working for the common good. Kaine and Pence fit that description and I know there are others out there.

Eight years ago we had hope that our first black President would help us heal. He was, and is, a man of good character and strong family values, but he was hamstrung by a deep economic recession and an obstructionist Congress. We need honorable worthy candidates but we also need to take the “rigging” out of the system so that these people of good character can work together with Congress for the welfare of the country as a whole.

Let’s treat our electile dysfunction and get healthy again. Let’s climb out of the swamp, get cleaned up, and take the steps we need to take to rise above the dysfunction.

Exercise your franchise. Vote on November 8th – even if you have to hold your nose. Belief + Doubt = Sanity.

 

Violent Tranquility

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I took this picture at the burial site of John and Jacqueline Kennedy looking up the hill toward the Robert E. Lee mansion (Arlington House) at Arlington National Cemetery.

I regret never having been to Arlington until this trip. It’s a moving experience. Last weekend we were fortunate to have a beautiful fall day with relatively small crowds. For two weeks leading up to the visit we were exposed to a crash course in American history, visited the homes of Washington, Jefferson, Madison and Monroe, toured the battlefields of Antietam and Gettysburg, and stood at the Lincoln, Jefferson, FDR, MLK, and Vietnam memorial sites. It was only fitting that Arlington be the capstone to our American history tour.

There is something both alluring and magnetic about cemeteries. Freshly mowed neatly trimmed lawns. Flower borders. Shade trees. Headstones, crosses, and flat gravestones aligned in eye-pleasing rows. None is more alluring or magnetic than the National Cemetery.

Wordsworth’s definition of poetry might as easily apply to the landscape at Arlington; He said poetry is the “spontaneous overflow of powerful feelings,” that it takes its origin from “emotion recollected in tranquility.” At Arlington, America’s fallen lie in tranquility, the violence and emotion of their deaths neatly buried, like their bodies, beneath the manicured carpet of grass that rises and falls on the ridges and swales of this serene landscape.

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Today, I’m thinking of America’s war dead, recent and not so recent – more than 400,000 of them buried within the 624 acres that lie on this hill above the Potomac. Within its boundaries are presidents (JFK and Taft), generals (Pershing and Marshall), servicemen and women from every war in US history, the Tomb of the Unknowns (above) dedicated to those who remain unidentified, as well as 4000 emancipated, freed and fugitive slaves. It is truly America’s graveyard.

No visit to Washington is ever complete, for me, without a stop at the Vietnam Memorial. It’s personal as well as symbolic. The Vietnam War is the most significant geo-political event of my generation’s lifetime. 58,000 Americans died there between 1964 and the fall of Saigon on April 30, 1975. When I visit I go immediately to Panel 30E, Row 83 where the name of Lewis Herbert Abrams is inscribed in the black granite.

Lew was my F11F instructor at NAS Beeville, Texas. He was a Yale English graduate before joining the Marine Corps. At the final stage of advanced training, he taught me air-to-air tactics, gunnery, and flew my wing as I broke the sound barrier for the first time. I also remember him quoting a William Carlos Williams poem during a preflight briefing. He was not your average Marine Corps fighter pilot.

I can’t say I knew him well, but as a fellow English major/Marine fighter pilot I felt a kinship. Col. Lewis Herbert Abrams died in an A6 Intruder over North Vietnam on November 25, 1967. I knew others whose names are on the Wall, but it’s Lew’s name I always visit, touch, and think about.

Semper Fi.

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Art on the National Mall

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It’s been more than 50 years since I first visited the National Gallery. At that time there was no dedicated space for modern art and what we think of as modern was mostly absent from its collection. There was no abstract expressionism, no color field painting, no installation environments, no minimalist art, and the printmaking renaissance of Jasper Johns and Robert Rauschenberg was still in the future. Fresh out of college, my own taste ran to French Impressionism and Picasso’s blue, rose, and cubist periods.

The one “modern” painting I found memorable on that visit was Salvador Dali’s The Sacrament of the Last Supper. At the time it seemed shocking.

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I wasn’t a sophisticated art viewer but I was awestruck. The painting dominated the room and obviously made a lasting impression. It still hangs there, in the main NGA building, and I’m still impressed with the draftsmanship and spatial organization, but now it seems almost classical and appreciably less shocking than on that first visit.

Today there is an additional NGA building, the East Wing, devoted entirely to modern art, but the Dali remains in the old NGA. Why isn’t it in the modern wing? The Dali painting is a prime example of surrealism and while Picasso and other 20th century innovators were moved to the new space Dali was not. The reason, according to TripAdvisor, is that an unnamed curator didn’t like the painting but wasn’t allowed to take it down. Instead, he located it in the “elevator room” of the main building near the cafeteria – a fun fact and minor example of how politics and intrigue also play in the art world.

The modern East Wing, designed by I.M. Pei, was finished in 1978, almost 20 years after my first visit. The design incorporated his signature glass pyramids outside (think the Louvre but smaller) and a ceiling of intersecting glass triangles that flooded the interior atrium with natural light. Two weeks ago on September 30th, after an expensive three year long renovation, the “new” East Wing reopened just in time for our arrival in Washington. The renovation maintains the building’s original footprint while reimagining and reconfiguring the space in order to display more work (from 350 to 500 permanent collection works), bring in more light, and create additional special exhibition spaces. The $69 million fixer-upper seems perfectly suited to its purpose – to display all manner of modern and contemporary art from the cubism of Braque and Picasso to the realism of Hopper and Bellows and further on to the monster blue fiberglass chicken that dominates the new sculpture terrace.

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Today, upon entering the old NGA, one is directed to descend to an underground passageway where a thoroughly modern moving sidewalk transports the visitor, almost in a time travel way, to the East Building. There, in a thoroughly modern space visitors can feast on large rooms full of  Rothko’s, Newman’s, Pollacks, Motherwell’s, and Frankenthaler’s, mobiles by Calder and sculptures by Giacometti, and adjoining the East Wing is an outdoor sculpture garden with large installations by Oldenburg and Richard Serra.

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Tired metaphor or not  – it’s hard not to feel like you’re drinking from a fire hose when visiting the National Mall. The opportunities are overwhelming, and it’s always difficult to prioritize the attractions. There are so many – monuments, museums, gardens, memorials, reflecting pools and vistas. This time we had a week, much better than the 2 or 3 days of previous visits, but still a challenge. Art was at the top of our list and we had the historic National Gallery, the new East Building, the Hirschhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, the Smithsonian Museum of American History, and the Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery to choose from. We managed to cover most of them but spent the better part of two days in the newly opened East Wing.

It was an extraordinary visit. The weather was Seattle-like but we were inside much of the time. DC couldn’t have been better. We booked an Airbnb apartment in NW Washington and made friends with the engaging host couple – Curtis, a police detective, and his attorney wife, Tracy. We ate well and walked it off. We had dinner with Ed and Bonnie Moon who came into town from the Maryland suburbs. We didn’t see everything, but it’s always good to leave a little on your plate. At the end of the trip, after visiting Monticello, Mt. Vernon and some Civil War battlefields we returned to Washington to spend a day at Arlington National Cemetery.  More about that in a future post.

For this one, I’ll leave you with a photo of Gunnery Sergeant Lawrence L. Meyers (USMC retired). Gunny Meyers is part of the protective detail in the East Wing. The two of us bonded when I remarked on his Marine Corps lapel pin. It turns out we were both part of the 3rd Marine Air Wing at El Toro, California. Now Gunny Meyers is protecting our nation’s art treasures. Oorah!!!

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Semper Fi, Gunny