Escaping the Holocaust…

In 1970 we were young Mill Valley exiles racketing around Europe in our new fire-engine red Volkswagen camper. One summer afternoon we stopped for lunch at the bar/café in Stockholm’s Royal Swedish Opera House where, for some unknown reason, we had trouble ordering two glasses of wine. A young man seated near us offered to help clear up the confusion and then laughingly told us not to feel bad about it, because the waiter was from somewhere in the Balkans and didn’t speak either passable Swedish or English. In this odd way – because we were foreigners – we met an extraordinary man.

etienne-glaserHis name is Etienne Glaser. We talked during lunch that day and he invited us to meet him later at his apartment. He wanted to help us plan our Swedish itinerary, to make it special for us. It turns out that Etienne, then in his early 30’s, was already a famous director at the Opera as well as a film actor and director of note. Later that day he told us his story. It went like this…

In 1940 the Germans invaded Denmark despite the Danes declared neutrality and a recently signed non-aggression treaty. They decided to allow the Danish government to stay in power and cite it as “a model protectorate.” As a consequence, there was an uneasy peace for almost three years and no attempt was made to aggressively enforce the anti-Jewish policies of the Third Reich. All that changed in August of 1943 as Danish Resistance activities grew in number and amplitude.

At the time there were approximately 8000 Danish Jews. Etienne was one of them, a six year old child of Jewish parents. As I recall his parents were also artists, but that isn’t the important part of the story. The important fact is that they were Jewish and in 1943 they needed to find a safer place. In spite of the Danish king’s defiant support of the Jews (he and his countrymen proudly wore the yellow star and armband required of all Jews) the Germans were beginning to systematically address “the Jewish problem”  – rounding up and transporting them to concentration camps in Poland.

The Danish Resistance agreed to help the Glaser family escape and a plan was set in motion. On the night of October 5, 1943 Etienne, his parents and older brother boarded a small fishing boat in Gilleleje north of Helsingor to take them across the 10-mile passage to the Swedish mainland. Everything was set but there was a hitch. Etienne’s infant brother had to be left behind. They were afraid the infant would make a sound, alert the Germans, and endanger the entire operation. The Resistance leader took the infant and told them to get aboard the small vessel – like the one pictured. He assured them that he would care for the child and arrange to reunite them later. Sometime later, dosed with sleeping pills, the infant was transported to Sweden where Etienne’s father picked him up and he was reunited with the family.

danish-resistance-boat

Two weeks ago I recalled Etienne’s story as I stood in front of this exhibit honoring the Danish Resistance at the Holocaust Museum in Washington DC. We spent most of a day at the museum. It is comprehensive, exhausting and emotionally upsetting. How could this have happened? How could any group of humans be so inhumane? The exhibits started on the top floor and as we descended we were led through the history and horrors of “the final solution.” I have a close friend whose parents were Holocaust survivors and I’ve been through Berlin’s Jewish Museum and Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, but this was something more. There are a few good stories like Etienne’s but the overall impression is dark and devastatingly sad. Knowing his story somehow drew me in and made it more personal and relatable.

I do believe in a certain kind of fate – or fateful serendipity – and this past weekend, the week we returned from our time in DC, a film that cleared our serendipity threshold opened in theaters. Denial tells the true story of David Irving an English historian and famous Holocaust denier who brought a libel suit against American historian Deborah Lipstadt and Penguin Books to prove his assertion that there was no “final solution” and that there were no gas chambers at Auschwitz.

Timing, as they say, is everything and, having just been to the Holocaust Memorial, M and I sat mesmerized as we watched the movie version of the Irving trial play out in the theater. In the film, as in the real life trial, Irving’s reputation as a historian is ultimately discredited when Justice Charles Gray’s declares “Irving has for his own ideological reasons persistently and deliberately misrepresented and manipulated historical evidence; that for the same reasons he has portrayed Hitler in an unwarrantedly favourable light, principally in relation to his attitude towards and responsibility for the treatment of the Jews; that he is an active Holocaust denier; that he is anti-semitic and racist and that he associates with right wing extremists who promote neo-Nazism.” Lipstadt and her legal team were victorious.

We think we know that good evidence always supports historical truth but there are those who continue to deny not only the Holocaust but also global warming, evolution, and other scientifically supported truths. If you haven’t seen it, Denial is an unsettling, suspenseful way to spend an evening and may make you less confident about how to defend the truth of your beliefs. It’s a good one.

So what happened to Etienne Glaser? I’ve lost track of him. but I know he is still acting and directing.I’ve tried to reconnect with him through the web but I haven’t been able to find contact information for him. He was very generous to us. He introduced us to people in the far north of Sweden who invited us to lunch and to one of the curators of the Moderne Museet (Modern Art Museum) in Stockholm who introduced us to a famous American artist who also became a friend. I’d like to thank him again for his generosity and the connections he helped us make.

hall-of-remembrance

This is the Holocaust Memorial’s Hall of Remembrance

Renew Our Faith in America… revisited

dc-1

There is a widely held belief that the racism, xenophobia and violence of this election cycle is an aberration and that reasoned debate has been the default mode of American presidential politics since the republic was founded. In his review of Alan Taylor’s American Revolutions: A Continental History 1750 – 1804 (London Review of Books) Eric Foner points out that this belief, like many others about our country’s origins, is dead wrong.

Long before there were Trumpians and Clintonians there were Federalists and Jeffersonian-Republicans. The American Revolution was, after all, a revolution. There were British Loyalists ready to die for the Crown and  separatists focused on independence willing to do the same. There were slavers and abolitionists, isolationists and royalists, those who wanted a strong central government and those who saw tyranny in that prospect, and, once the formation was complete violent disagreements continued. Remember Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr?

In 2015, long before the current vitriolic election cycle, M and I planned a visit to the other Washington to see what was new on the Mall and visit some historical sites. This month we took two and a half weeks to do it and named it the Renew Our Faith in America tour. The timing was serendipitous but given the current political free-for-all it was the perfect time for a democratic refresher. The jury is in and our faith renewed and in the process it gave us renewed perspective on the foundations of our democracy as well as some of the current issues.

On the road we got reacquainted with American history and found it both inspiring and tragic. The costs have been enormous and so have its successes. Our travels took us to George Washington’s Mt. Vernon, Jefferson’s Monticello, Madison’s Montpelier, Monroe’s Ash-Lawn Highland and the Civil War battlefields of Antietam and Gettysburg (with our friend and guide, Dr. David Boyd). It was like drinking from the proverbial fire hose.

madison-quote

We were reminded that the Founding Fathers were thoughtful, philosophical, creative and practical – but also flawed human beings. Four of the first five presidents – Washington, Jefferson, Madison, and Monroe were Virginians, all of them slave owners. All are on record as questioning the morality of slavery, but Washington is the only one of the four who freed his slaves (in his will).

If we wonder about racism in America all we need to do is remind ourselves that the nation was founded on a slave-supported economy. We have made enormous strides in establishing equality but it may be that we will never completely overcome our history of slavery. All of the estates we visited acknowledge that the owners were slave holders and all of them have gone to lengths to incorporate the history of the enslaved in their materials, but as tempting as it is to believe that these Founders were kind and considerate to their “human property,” all we need to do is see where and how they lived on these estates to understand that they were not. This morning, on BBC Radio a commentator mentioned that when a black man commits a crime it reflects on the whole race while a crime committed by a white person does not. This is obviously unacceptable.

Still, despite their human flaws, the lives and homes of the Founders are impressive, none more so than Jefferson’s at Monticello. On the other hand, we remember that Jefferson the architect, scientist, surveyor, farmer, politician, writer, diplomat, Vice-President and President of the United States died deeply in debt and his heirs had to sell off the property to pay the debt. For decades after his death the estate was unoccupied and deteriorating. It was only through the generosity of a deeply patriotic and philanthropic Jewish family (see the fascinating book Saving Monticello by Marc Leepson for the whole story of the Levy family’s epic quest to rescue the house) that Monticello was saved, restored, and donated to become what is now the only private home in the US designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.

monticello

As this 2016 election approaches I think of the Founding Fathers, of their love for the new country and their devotion to the principles of the Enlightenment that underlie its founding documents. I am reminded that these men were entirely human but not venal, narcissistic, or vindictive, that America, for them, was a grand new experiment in democratic government. “We the People…”  I think America can survive this painful election campaign. I believe it is capable of moving forward toward “a more perfect union,” in spite of the flaws of the two candidates currently striving to be its next President. The Founding Fathers planned and envisioned a political unit that was greater than any one individual leader and one that would evolve for the greater good of all its citizens. In that sense the Renew Our Faith in America Tour was a success, and though racism, anti-Semitism, xenophobia, and violence continue to be elements of the culture I was inspired to see how the building blocks were put together to honor the will of the people and mitigate against tyrannical rule.

mlk-quote

Martin Luther King Memorial on the National Mall

Sweet Life and the Lure of Oregon’s Back Roads

sweet-life

Are we back in Paris? No. The Sweet Life Patisserie is just one of the many Oregon surprises we discovered on our back roads drive to San Francisco. This local treasure is tucked away in a quiet neighborhood (775 Monroe Street) in Eugene. It’s very American but the pastries and coffee are good as those in any patisserie we discovered in Paris. It’s always crowded, so you’ll likely change your mind more than once as you peer into the display case waiting your turn and feasting your eyes.

sweet-life-2

Eugene and its little sister, Cottage Grove, have other surprises for a road warrior with time to explore. Marilynn and I put our bikes on the car and took a week to drive the back roads of Oregon and California to the Bay Area. On our way we spent two nights in Eugene, home of the University of Oregon, where we rode on well-maintained trails along the Willamette River and through adjacent wetlands.

j-and-m-biking

Then, on the way home, we spent a couple of nights in Cottage Grove (13mi south of Eugene), where we visited some local wineries and rode the 31-mile-long Rails-to-Trails bike path that leads from the center of town to Dorena Lake in the nearby hills. Along the way we passed several well preserved covered bridges dating from the early 20th Century. No Meryl Streep or Clint Eastwood, just covered bridges in a beautiful rural setting.

covered-bridge

We live on our own Rails-to-Trails bike path in Seattle, and we were surprised to note that even on the weekend we had the Cottage Grove trail almost to ourselves. Admittedly, we were out early (8 – 11 a.m.) as Oregon was experiencing a torrid heatwave (Roseburg, 52 miles to the south was 106F the day before our arrival), but in spite of that we were cool and comfortable as we passed through long stretches of Hansel and Gretel-like forest and rode beside Dorena Lake.

Western Oregon is full of surprises… and scaled for our pleasure. Eugene is a college town but the University there is small compared to our University of Washington. There are small liberal arts colleges in towns you’ve never heard of. Portland, its largest city, is cosmopolitan but manageable in size, with an idyllic Japanese Garden, a trendy renewed shopping district (The Pearl), one of America best bookstores (Powell’s), a good Jewish deli (Kenny and Zuke’s) world class Thai food (Pok Pok) and the best ice cream on the West Coast (Salt and Straw). Further south, in the wine country around McMinnville you can sample some of the best Pinot Noir in the world, or visit Ashland’s world famous Oregon Shakespeare Festival where they showcase 11 plays on 3 stages during the February to November season.

Sometimes, it seems, we overlook the attractions close to home or the pleasures of a leisurely road trip. For years Marilynn and I jumped on airplanes and flew across oceans for our travel adventures. Four years ago after we returning from 3 years in Vietnam, we drove the back roads of Idaho and Montana to refresh our recollections of the American West. This summer we added Oregon and California, and while these road trips lack the foreignness of Paris and Rome, they reveal the landscapes and vistas that are uniquely American.

Following our last morning ride in Cottage Grove we made a swing through Eugene for one last petit dejeuner and to say goodbye to the folks at Sweet Life.  This is Jessica, one of the managers. She’s got a great smile, lots of ink, and makes one of the best lattes I’ve ever had (3 shots in a 16oz cup).

sweet-life-3

The next time we’re in the Eugene area, Sweet Life Patisserie will be our first stop.

Sweet Life Patisserie – 755 Monroe Street, Eugene, Oregon 97402. Telephone: 541-683-5676. www.sweetlifedesserts.com, Facebook.com/sweetlifepatisserie. 

California Wine Country – without the hype

glen-ellen

This is the main intersection in the small town of Glen Ellen, California. The street sign in the photo directs visitors to 23 local wineries and tasting rooms. Just over the hill from Napa and a few miles north of Sonoma, this is California wine country without the hype. You’re not likely to see any Ferraris here, no Guccied-up juice bars, no designer boutiques, or four-figure dinners for two. It’s the kind of place you might have run into M.F.K. Fisher or Hunter Thompson (both former residents) at the local supermarket.

Glen Ellen is one of those towns that surprises. It’s fun to discover such a place. It lies off the beaten track, 36 miles of winding road east of Petaluma. But, it’s not a new find. Charles Stuart found and purchased the land, which was part of an original California land grant, in 1859. He planted a vineyard and named it Glen Ellen after his wife. Nice story.

In the early 20th Century, before construction of the Golden Gate Bridge, the cooler, oak covered, rolling hills of Marin, Sonoma, and Napa counties gave wealthy San Francisco families respite from the summer heat.

Jack London discovered Glen Ellen in 1905, purchased 1000 acres, moved there with his wife, Charmian, to started construction on their dream home. Wolf House was to be a 15,000 sq ft wood and stone structure but it burned to the ground in 1910, two weeks before they planned to move in. Undaunted, they moved into a small cottage with adjoining writing studio where they lived until his death in 1916. After his death, Charmian built a smaller version of Wolf House on the property and called it the House of Happy Walls. She lived there until her death in 1955, when, per her request, the house became a museum to honor his legacy. In 1959 the entire property was designated a Historic National Landmark and protected as Jack London State Park.

jack-london

Today, Glen Ellen has a population of 784, one hotel, three small restaurants, a car repair shop, and supermarket. This is wine country and there are upscale restaurants and country inns in the vicinity, but the town of Glen Ellen is a sleepy, residential community.

Marilynn and I had dinner at the Fig Café, a small, unpretentious restaurant within walking distance of our reasonably priced Jack London Lodge accommodations. The town may be sleepy, but the waitress at the Fig Café was as experienced and knowledgeable as she was friendly. When we asked about two rosés on the wine list, she differentiated between them and their provenance – Mathis, is a pale bone-dry European-style varietal made from Grenache grapes while Balletto, is a less flinty new world version made from Pinot Noir vines. We tried both with our fig and prosciutto flatbread appetizer and found them delicious.

glen-ellen-rose

The following morning after a visit to Jack London State Park and the museum, we continued east on California Highway 121 to Yountville, the heart of the heart of California wine country where we had trouble finding street parking between the Mercedes convertibles and Porsche Cayennes. When we did, we pulled our bikes off the car and crossed a busy Highway 29 to the newly made Rails to Trails bike path. The trail will eventually run from Napa all the way to Calistoga – from one end of the Napa Valley to the other – but at present only 7.5 miles have been completed. Though it lacks scenic appeal – it runs along the highway and side by side with the Wine Train railroad tracks – it does provide a car-free, stress-free alternative for moving through the valley.

The Napa Valley is justly famous for its wine (and food), so before moving on we stopped for lunch at Tra Vigne Pizzeria in St. Helena. I loved the original Tra Vigne, just down the street from the Pizzeria, but on our way in I noticed the original was no longer in operation. When I asked our server about it, she told us that the restaurant’s owners were unable to renegotiate their lease because the building owners wanted to replace it with an even more upscale restaurant. Michael Chiarello’s original Tra Vigne was not a cheap eats place, so I wonder what they have in mind? Michael moved on to other projects years ago though he returned to the valley recently to open Bottega Ristorante in Yountville.

Nevertheless, the fate of Tra Vigne speaks to the destiny of the Napa Valley itself. Wine has replaced horses as the Sport of Kings and Napa is Churchill Downs. The Mondavi’s, Beringers, and Trefethens are still there and continue to prosper from America’s wine infatuation, but many of the newer wineries are the rich kid pastimes of Wall Street executives and Silicon Valley venture capitalists.

Glen Ellen is a fresh breath of old wine country air. Yountville and St. Helena are showy places to see and be seen, but give me the rolling, live-oak covered hills of northern Sonoma County. Put me in a convertible on the winding eucalyptus-lined roads that lead in and out of Glen Ellen and you can have everything east of it. This is California wine country without the hype. This is my kind of place.

img_3942

 

Faces and Places…

Chuck Close

It is hard to imagine two contemporary artists more different than Chuck Close and Tony Foster. Close is a local guy (born in Monroe, WA) who’s become an international superstar known for his tightly focused, hyper-realistic portraits and self-portraits in a variety of mediums. Foster is a quiet Englishman who searches out remote and often endangered landscapes on his “wilderness journeys,” and records them in large complex watercolor paintings using only a pencil and small watercolor paint box.

Foster GC

In the last two weeks I’ve had the good fortune to see the work of both artists in near perfect settings. The Schack Art Center, in Everett, Washington is an unlikely location for an exhibition by a world renown artist like Chuck Close, except for the fact he grew up there and maintains strong ties to the community. The exhibit, which closes tomorrow (September 5th) is a stunning and comprehensive look at his work as a printmaker with detailed descriptions of various processes and collaborators.

I knew that Close had suffered a devastating spinal artery collapse in 1988 that left him a quadriplegic, and I knew that he had regained some mobility through rehabilitation, but I was astonished to discover that he also suffers from a condition known as prosopagnosia, aka facial blindness, a condition that prevents him from recognizing faces. He has said that he might have dinner with a person one night and not recognize him the next day. These obstacles seem almost impossible to overcome but for an artist known for his facial portraits the achievement seems incomprehensible. Nevertheless, he continues to draw, paint, print and make tapestries with an output that would shame most artists.

Working on a pixel-like grid, he draws, paints, or etches the portrait, small square by small square, until the grid is filled in and the portrait complete.

Chuck Close 2

Or,

Chuck Close 3

Tony Foster, is just as meticulous, but worlds apart in technique. Close has married the science of printmaking to the creative generator in his head and produced a stunning array of artistic and technically complex portraits. Tony’s creative journey is more geographic and his workmanship simpler in an effort to capture, convey, and preserve the magic and grand scale of the physical world on a simple piece of paper.

I was with Tony and a group of friends on an 18-day raft trip through the Grand Canyon in 1999. At the end of every day, as we were setting up camp and preparing for dinner, Tony would strap on a backpack with his tools – folding easel, aluminum tube of rolled watercolor paper, pencils and paint box – and strike out in search for a good vantage point near the camp. Then, for two or three hours he would sketch the canyon and fill in the outlines, capturing the essential colors of the landscape with his small box of paints, in order to freeze the scene in his mind enough to complete the painting later in his Cornwall studio. On our trip, he was able to develop 16 large (up to 7’ x 4’) paintings which the Denver Art Museum purchased as a complete set and record of the trip.

As an avowed conservationist, Tony is motivated to preserve and protect the wild environments he records in his work, The paintings themselves include journal-like notes about the site, problems encountered, and artifacts found in order to add to the viewer’s understanding of the location – sand, rocks, wood pieces, grasses, etc. – all incorporated into the artwork.

Tony Foster 2

Unlike Close who works almost exclusively from photographs, Tony never uses photographs. He works strictly from memory to complete the work laid down on-site in the wilderness.

Recently, Jane Woodward, a longtime admirer and collector of Tony’s work, underwrote the renovation of a large industrial space in Palo Alto, California and the creation of The Foster Foundation where visitors can see and appreciate the range of his watercolor “journeys” and be inspired to connect with the wilderness. Located at 940 Commercial Avenue, the foundation has brought together a wide sampling of Tony’s work in a space where the “journeys” can be seen as a continuum. Over the past 30 years, those “journeys” have taken him from the American Southwest to Europe, Central and South America, Hawaii, Alaska, the Caribbean, Greenland, Nepal, and Borneo. This remarkable and ever changing collection in Palo Alto can be viewed by appointment. To arrange a visit contact the staff through the website www.thefoster.org. I found them to be generous with their time and extremely knowledgeable about the art.

Chuck Close and Tony Foster are close to the same age – both in their 70s now – and both still highly productive. I’ve always believed that engagement is the key to longevity – as long as the little green hands of fate don’t intervene and throw you a bean ball. I highly recommend both exhibits. If you’re in the Palo Alto area, give the foundation a call and arrange a viewing of Tony’s work. If you’re anywhere near a Chuck Close exhibit don’t miss it. The show in Everett is exceptional. I don’t know if it will travel to other museums, but most major museums, including the Seattle Art Museum, have examples of his work. I hope you get to see this one, but, if not, don’t pass up a chance to see his work in another setting.

Check this out for an example of Close’s creative dexterity. The distorted portrait on the table is reflected as a clear picture on the polished stainless column in the center of the display.

IMG_4061