You Can’t Beat Haydn…

There was an art gallery exhibition and reception years ago in Sun Valley, and the featured artist was my former wife Abby Grosvenor. At the time of the opening I was recovering from a neuromuscular illness and only able to sit on the sidelines while the gallery goers milled around looking at the art. In retrospect it was an excellent way to observe the art, the atmosphere, and the people attending.

IMG_3426

Lunar Cycle (1986)

Because of my limited mobility I was given a chair and seated next to the chamber music trio playing at the event. The women of the trio were very friendly and between numbers we chatted briefly. After a particularly beautiful piece I remarked on how much I liked it. Without dropping a quarter note the violinist assertively told me, “You can’t beat Haydn.” She was right and every time I hear Haydn I remember her statement and the evening.

Yesterday I was reminded of both Haydn and her remark as I was trying to teach myself James Taylor’s Handy Man on the guitar. I’d say James deserves the same compliment the violinist gave Haydn. I never tire of James or his music, and though I’m not a serious musician I’d argue that both Haydn and James are masters at making  the complex sound simple. I can’t speak directly to the complexity of the Haydn compositions, but I’m sure the structure is more complicated than the simple melodic line many of the trios and quartets deliver.

That musical epiphany came when I finally started taking guitar lessons and trying to duplicate what I heard from performers I admire. For 50 years I struggled to teach myself, and though the effort wasn’t very successful I did get to the point where the pleasure of playing overcame the pain of learning. I like to tell kids who are learning a game or an instrument that if they stick with it for awhile they will arrive at the tipping point where the pleasure derived is greater than the frustration of non-achievement. It’s been true for me in tennis and writing as well as the guitar. Ironically, at 78 I’ve started taking lessons in all three disciplines now. Better late…

As they say in the mutual fund prospectuses, “Past performance is not a guarantee of future results.” As far as past performance goes my own prospectus is thin; I was OK at the guitar, a little above average at tennis, and incomplete as a writer. I wasn’t as good as I wanted to be in any of the three. I hope the lessons I’m taking now, which I enjoy but dreaded as a child, will improve future performance.

James Taylor

As a lifelong consumer of folk, folk-rock, and original singer-songwriter music I didn’t grasp how complex some of it is in composition and execution. For instance, in Taylor’s song Your Smiling Face there are 6 chord changes in one 8 bar measure. My fingers just can’t change that fast, but in countless live performances I’ve watched James move fluidly and pick each note in a seemingly effortless display of dexterity. Like Roger Federer’s tennis, what seems effortless is the product of great talent and countless hours of repetition and practice. I’ll never get there, but Roger and James are inspirations. I simplify the Taylor songs (and Federer strokes) to learn them, and when I get them right it’s enormously satisfying. It’s a lesson in incremental progress.

I’ve also discovered that others of my favorite singer-songwriters share the same musicality and dexterity. There’s an old axiom in country music that you can play any country song if you can play 3 chords in the key of G. I call bullshit. Willie Nelson’s songs and guitar picking are every bit as complex as James Taylor’s or Haydn’s. And, so are the Beatles’.

Malcolm Gladwell writes that it takes roughly 10,000 hours of practice to achieve mastery in a field and cites the Beatles as an example. In the early 1960’s the Beatles went to Hamburg to play and work on their music. By 1964 when they burst on to the international music scene they had played over 1200 concerts in Hamburg. Practice makes perfect – if you add in creative genius and digital dexterity. There is no way I can coax my fingers into some of the chord configurations that are standard in the Beatles catalog, but I’m still working on it.

I heard James Taylor’s Sweet Baby James for the first time in 1970. Abby and I were living in Europe and two American girls we met in Italy played the album for us. I still enjoy it and each time  it’s as if it were new to my ears. Genius plus dexterity plus practice equals incremental progress. Haydn, James, Willie, and the Beatles – complexity delivered simply.

Porto Ercole

Porto Ercole, Italy where I first heard James Taylor.

You can’t beat Haydn… or James.

Hang Around Long Enough and You Get It

Free Stuff

Over the weekend I was riding a chairlift at Whistler with a cute blonde dressed entirely in pink. Even her skis – pink polka dots on a white background – were fashion forward. The potential for a relationship was sealed when we both got knocked down thanks to an inattentive lift operator as we were loading. After we got going again I asked her name.

“Chloe, but my friends call me Clo-Clo.”

“What’s yours?

“I’m Jack.”

“How long have you been skiing?”

“This is my 67th year. How about you?”

“Wow,” she said. I’m 6 but I started when I was 2.”

“Wow, back at you. Do you ski a lot?”

“Yes. I live in Deep Cove and I ski every weekend. Sometimes 2, sometimes 3, and sometimes even 4 days.”

At the top of the Solarcoaster lift Chloe waved and went right. I waved and went left. “Bye, Chloe.” “Bye,” she chirped as she adjusted her goggles and started down.”

Those of you who have followed me for a while know that I’m a little edgy when it comes to attitudes about age (http://www.jackbernardstravels.com/im-a-little-edgy). I don’t know how Chloe feels about it but I don’t like to be judged by my age. I hate “seniors” stereotyping, but lately I’ve been focusing on the positive. It turns out there are some real perks that come to men and women of a certain age. I’m not talking about Social Security or Medicare although it’s always good to have income, and “free” health care is better than playing Russian roulette with your bank account.

No, I’m talking fun perks – not AARP discounts or Senior Day at the supermarket, not discounted movie tickets or all you can eat at the Royal Fork buffet. I’m talking about the good stuff – like free (or almost free) skiing. It’s a perk for the ages… so to speak.

Skiing for free isn’t new at all; Chloe’s age group (1 to 6) has always had the perk and when I moved to Sun Valley in 1973 anyone over 65 qualified for it. I think Chloe and her sister, age 2, are likely to hang on but as the skiing population aged the 65 perk disappeared. It’s still around in various iterations and locations but it’s hard to find.

Four years ago, M and I began our annual winter odyssey and hit the road in search of snow – clean, fresh, white, dry, Champagne powder. Washington State is not the place to find it so we headed north and east. Whistler was our starting point and from there we worked our way east to Kelowna, Penticton, Rossland and Nelson. We didn’t make it as far as Revelstoke or Fernie but they’re on the list and justly famous for the white and dry. Instead, we dropped down to Schweitzer Basin in Idaho and on to Big Mountain in Montana. All of these resorts offer huge discounts for older skiers.

Years ago I tried heli-skiing in the Monashees and more recently Cat-skiing in the Selkirks. Lots of vertical with both conveyances, but I love the Cat. It’s warm and cozy instead of heli-cramped and heli-noisy. Both have become too rich for my wallet in recent years, but I will say, if you love powder skiing as I do and you get a chance to do it by Sno-Cat don’t miss it. The late Allen Drury who, with his wife Brenda, started Selkirk Wilderness Skiing in 1975 wrote the book on the experience. It’s a real treat. There is really nothing like it – tree skiing, glade skiing, big open bowls and steep couloir drops followed by good food and drink in a log cabin lodge. Terrific.

Big Mountain

These ghost trees are on the slope at Big Mountain in Whitefish, Montana. I took the picture from near the top on a 10” powder day in 2014. I was there for a week in 2013 and another in 2014. No charge. 70 and older ski for free and it’s world class powder skiing. Two years from now Alta will be free too. Not bad, eh?

As a travel friendly aside, if you follow the lure of free skiing to Whitefish you should stay at the Good Medicine Lodge run by our innkeeper friends, Woody and Betsy Cox. They managed to escape from New England in 1993 and never looked back. Good Medicine isn’t free like the skiing but it delivers good food, great value, and a cozy rustic atmosphere. Across the road is McGarry’s Roadhouse, an upscale establishment run by Sandy and Steve Nogal, formerly of the famous Inn at Langley on Whidbey Island near Seattle. It’s where I learned to love the brussel sprout. My mother is cheering from above as I write this. She wouldn’t believe it? Try them. You’ll convert.

Whistler Cross

Last night I returned to Seattle after three sensational powder days at Blackcomb (Whistler) with a couple of friends. This picture was taken at the top of the 7th Heaven lift. What a place. When they opened 7th Heaven at 9:30 yesterday there was nearly a foot of untracked powder.

Unlike Big Mountain, Whistler isn’t free for older skiers but it feels like it. It offers discounts for skiers 65 and over, but BC and Washington residents get special treatment. If we buy early in the year we can score an amazing deal. I discovered the perk two years ago when the resort offered me a season pass for less than $200 US. Even if I don’t ski it pencils out over a couple of years. Last year was a terrible snow year and I didn’t use it but this is a great one and with the Canadian dollar now worth about 65 cents it’s almost like getting paid to ski. This year’s pass cost $182 and the season runs into May. It’s hard to beat – unless you live close to Big Mountain.

Season Pass

Clo-Clo is still on a free ride but she’s running out of time. I’m sure she’ll still be shredding the mountain next year when it will cost her $39 a day. I do hope to run into her the next time I’m at Whistler. She’s a charmer. The season is off to a great start so it might just happen. If it does I’m looking forward to another almost free powder day.

Free Stuff Rocks

Winter Survival: Then and Now

Winter Survival Skiing

How do you feel about winter? For people who like the change of seasons it’s a turnaround. With passage of the winter solstice comes the advent of longer days and the promise of spring. For skiers winter is prime time –  a short window that opens in December with Champagne powder and closes in April with spring slush. For bears it’s hibernation time. These days I’m closer to the bears than the seasonal change folks.

When I lived in Sun Valley and later in Salt Lake there was a delicate balance at play. It was cold but when it snowed I had easy access to the world’s best skiing. Wake up. Look out the window. Check the temp. Check for fresh snow and go. When there wasn’t fresh powder I could sip hot buttered rum and read by the fire. It’s all about finding that sweet spot, the balance in life.

For the last few years I’ve lived further from good skiing and bear-like hibernation is more my style. I wish I could be more like the bear – burn off some fat while I wait for the spring run-off. It seems to work the other way around for me. My body senses the cold and adds the fat for insulation. No luck in the hibernation strategy.

If you haven’t guessed by now, I hate to be cold. When I think of being cold I think of the two weeks I spent at a place with the unlikely name of Pickle Meadows. There are no pickles in Pickle Meadows. I don’t know the origin of the name but the location near Bridgeport, CA is the site of the Marine Corps Winter Survival and Escape and Evasion School. In 1961 I spent two weeks there. Jesus, it was cold – January in the high Sierra with a few feet of snow and the temperature close to zero. Something of a rude transition from Laguna Beach where I was living at the time.

Winter Survival

The Marine Corps thought winter survival camp would toughen us up and give us a taste of what it would be like if we got shot down over hostile mountain territory. They were working off the experience of airmen in Korea. They didn’t know that the next war would be fought in the steamy jungles of SE Asia. That’s military planning for you.

Nevertheless, there we were; Pickle Meadows in winter. In the truest sense it wasn’t life or death hardship. We knew it had an end date, but let me tell you three days in drifting snow and subzero temperatures on the eastern slopes of the Sierra with only a hunting knife to find food is not the California vacation I was looking forward to.

I was teamed up with two other pilots and we played the game by the rules. Our three-man team was dropped off in a remote area in three feet of snow and told to evade the “Aggressor” team while making our way back to base camp with just a compass and a topo map. If the Aggressors caught us we would be taken to their POW camp for incarceration, interrogation, and other humiliations. Not a happy scenario. This was a realistic exercise and we were appropriately apprehensive.

Winter Survival 2

As we made our way stealthily along it seemed like a cool (no pun intended) game. We followed rabbit tracks hoping for a kill, but rabbits are faster and smarter than Marines. After a night huddled together under a tarp in the snow with no food the game turned into what it really was, a survival exercise. On day two we spotted a porcupine nibbling at new shoots at the top of a Ponderosa pine. “C’mon Marines, let’s get that fucker.” Hoop and holler. We lashed one of our K-bar hunting knives to a long branch and drew straws for who would climb the tree for the kill.

My wingman, Pete Kruger, drew the short straw and we hoisted him up to a branch where he could start the climb. It went well until he got within striking distance – directly under porky. It looked like a done deal until porky got stabbed in the ass, and let go of the trunk. As he fell, Pete whose reflexes were also good let go, and we watched the two of them bounce through the branches until they came to rest about the same distance from each other as when they were at the tippy-top of said tree.

After a little more sparring Pete impaled porky and the two of them fell to the snowy ground. If you are ever confronted with a winter survival situation, don’t go for porky. We almost lost Pete in the hunt and the cost benefit of the effort was low on the benefit side. As instructed in the classroom, we boiled the bejeezus out of porky to purge the pine resin from his system, and after he was thoroughly cooked we scrapped the resinous scum off the top of the tin can pot and chopped him into three pieces. When all that was done our unanimous assessment was that porky has no nutritional value, the texture of a squash ball, and the taste of pure pine pitch. Not good.

The end of the Pickle Meadows survival exercise is an all you can eat steak and eggs breakfast but that didn’t come to pass until after another harrowing 24 hours. We should have known the game would end badly. It did. We evaded the Aggressor force, which probably pissed them off, but as we were nearing camp after three days of evasion we were “captured” and spent the next 24 hours in the POW compound where we were alternatively stuffed into wooden boxes smaller than we were, hammered with loud cacophonous music, blinded by bright lights, splashed with icy water from the snow melt barrel, and “interrogated” by bullying, good guy/bad guy teams. It was a taste of what capture might be like and trust me you don’t want any part of it. I have the greatest respect for guys like John McCain. We have radically different politics but he is a god in the survival pantheon. Pickle Meadows was no Hanoi Hilton.

So, the long story is all about how much I hate the cold. Winter has become an endurance contest for me with a few bright spots interspersed. I’ve got a bad case of SAD (Sunlight Affective Disorder) and love the sun so much I’ve had 5 melanomas removed to prove it. I understand the snowbird thing – retirees heading south to Southern California or Arizona – but I’m holding out for that perfect ski day.  Tomorrow, two friends and I are headed for Whistler. The forecast is good – temp about 32F with snow flurries. It takes me back to 1985 and the picture that opens this blog. Lynn Campion took the photo on Lower Christmas in Sun Valley. Big fun.

Picking at Scabs…

Adele

There is an unscripted moment at the conclusion of Adele’s November 17, 2015 Radio City Music Hall concert. After leaving the stage the camera continues to roll as she steps into a backstage elevator. There, she falls into the arms of a companion sobbing uncontrollably as the door closes behind her.

That scene could be a metaphor for the evening – a simple, quiet, unexpected explosion of emotion – that tells us something about the woman with the most luminous voice in more than a generation. She writes her own songs and the lyrics come across as desperate bleeding sores.

When We Were Young

Let me photograph you in this light

In case it is the last time

That we might be exactly like we were

Before we realized

We were sad of getting old

It made us restless

I’m so mad I’m getting old

It makes me reckless

It was just like a movie

It was just like a song

When we were young

The New York concert, shown on NBC on December 14, was riveting. Her last concert, in 2011, celebrated the release of her second studio album, the age-titled “21”. In the four-year interim she has undergone throat surgery to remove a bleeding polyp, quit smoking, given birth to her first child, and composed the songs for her third album, “25.” Despite the surgery the voice has lost none of its range, clarity or power. No one in recent memory has a voice or musical presence as mesmerizing.

“25” was the most anticipated music event of the year and didn’t disappoint. Its hit single, Hello was an instant success and the album, in six weeks, became the biggest selling album of the year and the decade – even though she defied conventional thinking and withheld it from the streaming sites.

Adele 2

She weathered a storm of criticism after the release of her first album, “19” seven years ago. With a surprise appearance on Saturday Night Live in 2008 the conversation ricocheted back and forth between her extraordinary voice and the fact that she was a pudgy, maybe even unattractive, young woman. Definitely not star quality. But, the conversation was wrong. The UK had already made her a star, and it wasn’t long before negative voices were drowned out and the US caught up.

Like Taylor Swift, Adele writes her own songs. Unlike Swift’s, hers are heart wrenching, heart-breaking personal statements of loss and longing. Swift’s are personal too but tend to be catchy or ironic contemporary statements. Adele’s are raw aching stories of remorse and regret delivered with an arresting combination of intimacy and power.

Today Adele seems more self-assured, but when she stops singing the insecure cockney girl is still there. Watch any of the unedited YouTube videos or the unscripted asides in the Radio City concert and the blue-collar girl is there – nervous, awkward and sometimes silly. But, when she opens her mouth to sing there is nothing like it. It’s been a long time since we’ve heard a voice and musical persona like hers on the scene.

The first time I heard Joan Baez, 55 years ago, I had a similar reaction. I was sitting outside a small music store in Claremont California talking to Mr. Chase, the owner, when I heard it. I asked him who was singing and he told me it was a local girl whose father taught at Claremont Pomona. That was the day I bought my first guitar and the first of many Joan Baez albums. The voice was pure and unmistakable like Adele’s, but, as a songwriter, she didn’t pick the scabs or reach deep into her own emotional wounds for material. She was a unique delivery system for the music she shared with us, but she didn’t give herself to the audience as Adele does.

Rolling Stone’s November 19, 2015 issue featured her on the cover and in a long article on her private life. The boyfriend she sang about in When We Were Young, Someone Like You, and Set Fire To The Rain is gone now and she has a new “bloke” and a child. But, in spite of her professed happiness the raw, painful emotions of that earlier time are still pulsing in her new songs.

Hello

Hello, it’s me

I was wondering if after all these years you’d like to meet

To go over everything.

They say that time’s

Supposed to heal ya

But I ain’t done much healing.

Hello, can you hear me

I’m in California dreaming about who we used to be

When we were younger and free

I’ve forgotten how it felt before the world fell at our feet.

There’s such a difference between us

And a million miles.

You have to listen. This is Someone Like You: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLQl3WQQoQ0

Past, Present, Future…

Stonehenge

The winter solstice, the end of the year and birthdays all signify the end of something and the beginning of something else. It’s a convergence of the old and new, a time to review the past and prepare for the future. What has this year been like? What about the next one? What’s going on personally and globally – family, health, war, climate change, art, Wall Street, racism, national security, ISIS, politics? Issues large and small. It’s time to reflect and recommit.

I always get a little help with this from the year-end film releases, that seasonal bonanza of films surging into theaters hoping to be celebrated and recognized as the best of the year for the upcoming award season. I’ve been doing this movie thing for a long time and it doesn’t surprise me when I find a link between what’s showing in movie theaters and what’s trending in the real world. Still, given the lag time between the germ of creation and the distribution of a film, the synchronicity sometimes surprises me. This month The Danish Girl, a film based on a true 1920’s transgender story, is in theaters. It’s timely; in the last 5 years transgender stories have become mainstream news. 15 years ago when the story was written and 7 years ago when the director, Tom Hooper, was pitching it to backers it was a tough sale.

What do this year’s films tell us about our world? Last week I saw three of them – Spotlight (about Catholic priest child abuse in Boston), The Big Short (about the subprime mortgage mess that brought down America’s financial house), and Room (about a young woman kidnapped, raped, abused and held prisoner by a predator). Is there a bright side? Every year has its tragedies and upsets, but this year feels different. Darker. More problematic. Fear infused.

2015 was not a banner year for optimists. Millions of terrorized refugees risked their lives trying to reach the safety of Western Europe. ISIS beheaded Western journalists and established a caliphate dedicated to the destruction of non-conforming people, countries, and cultures. Wall Street ignored the lessons of 2008 and rapaciously pursued the same greedy strategies that drove the country to near bankruptcy. Police shootings of unarmed African-Americans grabbed the headlines, and the terrorist attacks in Paris and San Bernardino hijacked our attention and crowded out the every day news about gun violence in neighborhoods all over America.

And, whenever there was a lull in the news cycle, the media feverishly fed us the inane, uninformed, bigoted Donald Trump crap that Americans either love or love to hate. Where is Jon Stewart now that we really need him? Is this the end of the beginning or the beginning of the end?

Eclipse

Meanwhile, our leaders and legislators are sitting on their hands. Instead of being outraged at the epidemic of gun violence and working on solutions to keep us safer they are bickering over Obamacare, denying climate change, and demonizing immigrants? The year-end films tell us a lot about the society we live in.

Why is it that the criminals who destroyed our financial system have gone unpunished? Not one major Wall Street banker, trader or executive has been indicted for the criminal activity that brought on the biggest financial crisis since the Great Depression. (See The Big Short to find out how they did it.)

How did we not know that the Catholic Church was protecting hundreds of priests who preyed on vulnerable children? And how could lawyers, in good conscience, make a lucrative market out of the abuse by settling claims rather than spotlighting the flagrant abuse and corruption of the church. (See Spotlight to appreciate the value of investigative reporting).

And, almost every day we read of athletes being suspended for the domestic abuse of their wives or girlfriends. They are the tip of the iceberg. There are daily cases of kidnapping, rape and abuse by non-celebrity predators. (See Room for a chilling example of this and an Oscar worthy performance by Brie Carlson as the victim).

Our children wonder why M and I don’t go to light hearted entertainment films. Truth? They’re like Chinese food; I’m hungry an hour later. These films, including The Danish Girl, provoke serious thought about the world as the year comes to an end. They are dark and thought provoking but need to be seen.

Every year I look for the silver lining. I live a privileged life in good health. I’m in a loving relationship and my children and grandchildren are healthy and stable. I want to approach the future with a positive attitude, so I am dedicating myself to the following principles and behaviors in 2016.

Resolutions

In the end, we are all determined by the place and the time in which we were born.

Patrick Modiano, winner of the 2015 Nobel Prize in Literature