What Does It Take To Be A Writer?

Alexander Maksik is a talented young writer – two well-received novels, stories published in Harper’s, Harvard Review, and Tin House as well as regular contributions to Conde’ Nast Traveler and Departure magazines. I’ve known Xander, as family and friends know him, since he was in middle school. His father and mother, both educators, are friends of mine and co-founders of the Sun Valley Writers Conference. The family counted Peter Matthiessen, Ethan Canin, and the poet WS Merwin as personal friends. It’s no accident that Xander grew up wanting to be a writer.

A Maksik

Real writers know there is a difference between wanting to be a writer and being a writer, a difference Xander talks about when he’s on book tours. In his self-deprecating way he tells the audience that before he became a writer he imagined himself as one – wearing a black turtleneck, jotting down ideas in a dog-eared notebook, drinking Pastis in Paris café. Eventually, after a wrenching personal experience, he became a writer – in Paris – but his writing involved long days in the public library not in a sidewalk café.

I tell that story because I’ve known several people who wanted to be artists but never followed through – a lesson that was not lost on me. I knew a woman in Sun Valley who always talked about being an artist. She designed her perfect studio space and filled it with art supplies but never seemed to get around to making art.

My former wife, on the other hand, soldiered on through a number of our living situations and whether we were living in a VW Camper or a little rented house in France she always had a sketchbook, a watercolor block, and a kid’s tin box of watercolors to get her ideas down on paper. She didn’t want to be an artist. She was one. She’s been an accomplished and successful printmaker/painter for the last 40 years. It doesn’t take the perfect space or a cupboard full of supplies to become a real artist. It takes desire, focus, application and hard work.

Abby print

I imagined myself being a writer too, but it wasn’t until near the end of my work-for-pay life that I stopped imagining and started working to make it happen. In 1970, in a little house in France, I wrote fiction every day for nine months. It was bad stuff and I knew it, but I loved the process. I was 31 at the time and told myself if I wrote 500 words a day I would have a library of work by the time I was 65. When my artist wife and I returned from France I enrolled in a Creative Writing program at San Francisco State College. I completed the course work but left the program when my work-for-pay job transferred me to New York, and not only did I drop the program I dropped the habit of writing every day. Now, at 77, I wish I hadn’t. I wish I had that library of work. I always kept a journal and started a few stories but these were insincere feeble attempts to make myself feel like a writer.

In the intervening years, between San Francisco State and 2009, I thought of myself as a someday writer. I read novels and biographies. I bought books, like Ann Lamott’s Bird by Bird, Natalie Goldberg’s Writing Down the Bones, and Wallace Stegner’s On the Teaching of Creative Writing and scanned them for secrets and short cuts to becoming a writer. It wasn’t until I was 70, without the library of work I imagined at age 31 that I really became a writer. I stopped procrastinating and started writing again.

In 2009 I was beginning a new job in Saigon, and figured if I didn’t start writing then I would never do it. I started with a blog about the daily life of an expatriate and it provided the discipline I needed. In the six years since, I’ve posted over 200 essays (200,000+ words) in two different blogs, kept a journal of over 200 pages, a notebook of “memoir notes” almost as long, several chapters of a prospective memoir and a couple of short stories. I write every day and since returning from Saigon I treat writing as my full time job. I get up, have my coffee, scan the NY Times, and sit down to work for 3-4 hours.

So, why do I write and what is my goal? I write because I like words and ideas, and I want to become proficient at using the former to explain the latter. For now, it’s enough just to write every day. Publication is somewhere down the line. A recent workshop in memoir writing required us to submit work to one or more publications for the experience – to see if there was any interest out there. I submitted work to Moss, a local Seattle literary magazine, two pieces to Creative Nonfiction, a travel piece to the SATW (Society of American Travel Writers) annual travel-writing contest, and two essays to Modern Love at the New York Times. All were rejected. It was disappointing. I know these stories and essays are good – but they were not seen as good enough for publication in the selected venues. I know there are publications out there where these things fit. I just need to find them.

It’s taken awhile to think of myself as a writer. A teacher in one of the writing workshops I took encouraged us to think of and present ourselves as writers even though we were unpublished. It was hard to do that a year ago, but today I confidently call myself a writer. That confidence came slowly and at a price – a painful family experience.

Six years ago my daughter, a professional writer and editor, visited me in Seattle. After a walk together she asked me what I planned to do when I retired from my job in Saigon. I told her how much I wanted to write and that I thought I might do something “memoir like.” Her response was to ask me if I planned to write about all the women in my life while I was married to her Mom.

It was an awful moment but it led more clarity about my writing. The relationship with my daughter took a downward turn but it brought more honesty to it and to my writing. I hadn’t intended to write about that marriage, but if I was going to be a real writer I couldn’t blank it out. From that moment on I had to allow the writing to go where it wanted to go and not where it felt safe. I haven’t gone out of my way to discuss family history or dysfunction but it’s not off limits.

This morning I heard an NPR interview with Meryl Streep and Diablo Cody, the screenwriter, about their new film Rikki and the Flash. The film is about a mother who leaves her husband and 3 children to pursue her dream of being the lead singer in a rock band. There are many painful moments in the film, moments like the one with my daughter, where anger, resentment, and embarrassment control the conversation. In the interview Ms. Cody was asked about a line she gave to Rick Springfield whose character plays lead guitar in Ms. Streep’s band. In a tense argument about parenting estranged children he says,

“It doesn’t matter if your kids love you or not. It’s not their job to love you. It’s your job to love them.”

Hard as it is to accept, I think Rick nailed it. For me writing and family are not divisible interests. I’m a writer and so is my daughter. I’d like to share what I’m doing with her. It could be a nice meeting point for the two of us. Whether we find that sweet spot or not I plan to keep on writing. Maybe she will read it, maybe not. I can’t control what she likes or dislikes, approves or disapproves. As Rick says, “It’s my job to love (her)” not the other way around, and I’m trying to honor that.

When I started to write this, Xander Maksik’s parents were boarding the Queen Mary 2 in Southampton. His father, Jon, has a contract to write about the crossing for Conde Nast Traveler. He’s a very good writer and it’s encouraging to have friends like Jon and Karl Marlantes who are get published later in life. Karl, the bestselling author of Matterhorn, tried for 30 years to find a publisher for his Vietnam War novel. He was 65 when Grove published it in 2010, and it became an award winning first novel and New York Times bestseller. It can happen.

Marlantes

So what does it take to be a writer? It obviously takes hard work and commitment, but more specifically it means that writing has become that person’s driving interest and occupation. I write because I value the art and craft of it, but also because I want to share myself and subjects that interest me with others. I believe that writing is the most important and effective way I can do that.

Xander and Karl write novels. Abby makes prints. Jon writes articles. For now, I blog and write essays. All are forms of artistic expression. I hope to find a wider audience for my writing soon. I’d love to see something of mine in print. It’s a form of validation and the primary way writers distribute their thoughts, insights, and experiences to a larger audience. I have something to say, and I’m anxious to say it. We’ll see how that all works out. For now it’s all about the writing…

Sex in Wessex… Rediscovering the 19th Century

Jane Austen quote

Lately, for some inexplicable reason, I’ve been drawn to the sick and wicked of the 19th Century, and while summer is traditionally the time to grab a potboiler and head for the beach I’ve found myself watching multiple film versions of several enduring 19th Century novels, reading online bios and book reviews.

It started innocently enough last month when the thermometer busted 90F for the third straight day and we decided to take in an air-conditioned late afternoon movie to beat the heat. That movie, Gemma Bovery, took us back to Flaubert’s novel and triggered a surprising amount of curiosity leading to an avalanche of late night videos, online searches, and bookstore visits. One thing led to another, one novel to another, and almost immediately a renewed appreciation for Victorian-era naturalist writers and their modern film translators

“Renewed” isn’t the right word to describe my appreciation for the era’s writers because I didn’t sincerely appreciate Flaubert, Hardy, the Bronte’s and Jane Austen in the old days. I endured a college class or two that included the major figures, but I saw them as historical points of reference in the continuum of the novel. My interest ran more to Camus and Sartre than tweedy Englishmen (and women) writing about the sick and wicked of the 19th Century. I missed a lot of good storytelling by skating over the genre.

Hardy novel

Gemma Bovery and the release of a new Far From The Madding Crowd with Carey Mulligan as Ms. Everdene are the one-two punch that took me back to the future. Flaubert and Hardy, like Shakespeare before them, dig deep into the psyches of their flawed but very human characters. Granted, Gemma Arterton and Carey Mulligan held my attention in a way that small print in the Modern Library editions of Madame Bovary and Far From the Madding Crowd could not, but the story lines of these novels are every bit as compelling, sexy, smarmy, and contemporary as anything Jonathan Franzen or John Updike ever dreamed up. Hardy and Flaubert, the Brontes and George Eliot, give us good stories and enough detail to hang our imagination on. We don’t need a clinical description or details of pulsing throbbing body parts to know what went on when Emma visited Dupuis in the hotel in Rouen. Our imaginations can fill in the detail.

As a writer it is Hardy’s creation of Wessex, the fictional region of southwest England where all of his novels take place, that takes us out of ourselves. Like Faulkner’s Yoknapawtapha County, Wessex lets the geography of the mind take over and free us from reality. Whether it’s Bathsheba Everdene resisting her attraction to the Mr. Oak (above) and then falling in bed with creepy Sergeant Francis Troy or Michael Henchard, the main character in The Mayor of Casterbridge, selling his wife and child to a sailor, Hardy’s readers are on a voyage through the choppy, unhappy waters of human behavior.

Even though Jane Austen and Thomas Hardy both deal with limited opportunity and the oppressive treatment of women they also share an affection for the strong willed kind. Austen’s leading ladies most often find their way to a happy ending; Pride and Prejudice, Sense and Sensibility, and Mansfield Park all end with a triumph over adversity and the realization of found love. Hardy, on the other hand, puts his women through humiliating ordeals and twists of fate that often end in disgrace, poverty or death. The headstrong independent Bathsheba Everdene is an exception, but she has to overcome her own stubborn determination to be independent in order to realize that Mr. Oak is more to her than just a loyal farm manager. It’s only when he’s about to cut and run to California that she has her come-to-Jesus moment.

Fowles cover

I’m know I’m late to the party, the 19th Century one, but in rethinking these stories I realized that John Fowles’ faux-Victorian novel The French Lieutenant’s Woman, one of my favorites, has the same elements as most of the Hardy novels even though it was written in 1969. There is a mysterious French sailor, a strong willed, independent but compromised heroine, a moralistic little town, a curious town visitor who betrays his fiancé and falls in love with the heroine. There is unrequited love, suspense, disappointment and betrayal. The magic of this 20th Century variation comes about through the intrusion of a narrator who concludes the narrative by offering three possible endings for the story. It’s a work of genius as is the film version written by Harold Pinter and starring Meryl Streep with Jeremy Irons.

This has been a summer of surprises – 90 degree temperatures in Seattle and a fascination with Victorian novels. I love hot weather but didn’t expect it here, and though I was a lit major I never could have predicted a serious interest in 19th Century fiction. Here’s to Jane Austen’s sick and wicked and the absence of perfection – to Madame Bovary, Bathsheba Everdene, Fanny Price, Elizabeth Bennett, and Sarah Woodruff (the French Lieutenant’s Woman) – imperfect women but heroines all.

Beating The Heat In Seattle

When I started writing about “surviving Seattle” it was all about the rain, cold and moldy feeling that hangs over the city’s reputation. So, after living in Saigon for three years, it feels a little cheeky to talk about a heat wave in Seattle. Relatively speaking it should be nothing but a breath of fresh air, but it’s worth thinking about surviving Seattle in a different way this year. Today is the 10th day of 90F+ temperatures in the last two months and the forecast for the next four days is more of the same. We’re out of practice here, and without air conditioning or trade winds to cool things off it takes a little effort to think about cooling strategies. As a warm weather person I love these days but it’s no fun, even for me, to sit indoors and sweat it out.

Condo pool

I’m lucky; my own strategies start right at home. Our condo complex has an outdoor pool and I start every day, June through September, with a wake up swim. The pool is half the length of an Olympic short course pool, 12 ½ meters, and though it’s no good for serious lap swimming, but it’s a challenge to do them underwater. It takes me 20 minutes to do 50 laps, and I have the pool all to myself. The sun pops up over the top of the building next door at exactly 7:10 this time of year. At 7:30 the noise curfew is lifted and the seaplane fleet from Kenmore Air has lined up ready to takeoff as soon as the clock strikes 7:30. I love to watch them break free of the water and climb out over the city. Such a great way to start the morning and a reminder of what a great place to live.

Kenmore, the town, is a perfect location for us. It sits midway on the Burke-Gilman trail, part of a 50+ mile multi-use Rails to Trails recreational system. The Burke sits on the other side of our condo, so we can ride right out the gate and onto the trail – no schlepping of bikes or having to deal with car traffic. Yesterday I rode 15 miles south to the Seattle Tennis Club and watched part of the Washington State Open and the Blue Angels practice for their show on Sunday. From the stands this was my view:

STC

It was hot in the stands, but the ride itself is shaded most of the way by large deciduous trees. I stopped for a Jamba Juice cooler at University Village Shopping Center and then rode the rest of the way home. What way to get exercise, beat the heat, watch top-level tennis, and enjoy Seattle.

Much as I love the outdoor stuff I know it’s not for everyone when it’s 90F. There are other ways to beat the heat and we’ve tried many of them. Two weeks ago my grandson, Will, was visiting and since he lives in rural Idaho we were thinking of things we could do that were a little out of his wheelhouse. He’s very bright and advanced for his 12 years so we proposed a Shakespeare play. He had seen, and liked, Romeo and Juliet so it wasn’t that big a stretch to suggest Shakespeare in the Park’s version of As You Like It. Grab a blanket, bring a picnic, and sit on the lawn at Richmond Beach Park. It was a hoot and the actors and minimal sets were very good. Orlando was a hunk, Rosalind a beauty, and the audience appreciative. Here’s the fight scene.

As You Like It

These alternatives don’t need to be highbrow. When it’s hot in the afternoon there’s always a 4:00 movie in an air-conditioned theater. Last week we saw a funny little Swedish film called The 100 Year-old Man Who Disappeared. It was light and crazy and, like all good films, left the audience with a little to chew on. And if 4 o’clock movies aren’t your thing, Seattle is the heart of a Happy Hour movement where every good restaurant in town is offering good value for showing up early. In the hot weather my appetite turns down and two meals a day, a late breakfast and early snacky supper, take care of the hunger and calorie count very well.

Speaking of eating and the bike trail, two of our favorite stops within 10 miles of home are Woodinville’s Hollywood Tavern, an upscale bistro that used to be a biker bar and the 192 Taproom, a craft brew taproom that was once a plant nursery. I especially like the 192. It’s enormous sawdust and wood chip yard full of unmatched white plastic chairs and tree stump tables is a magnet for the bicycle crowd. Late in the afternoon and every weekend a vast inventory of leaning or hung bicycles piles up along the chain-link fence while their owners check out the latest craft brew and listen to local bands take the stage in the sawdust yard for an open mike opportunity to go public. Some are good, some bad, but it’s always fun to have music with the brewski. Too bad this photo wasn’t taken on the weekend when the bikes hide the fence and the building.

192

There are other ways to beat the heat and have fun – ride the trail around to Golden Gardens on the Puget Sound side of town, stop at Westward to enjoy happy hour with your feet in the water and your ass in an Adirondack chair, or stop to admire the Fremont troll or Wall of Death under two of Seattle’s many bridges. Whatever works for you to beat the heat is great, but don’t complain. Enjoy. Remember the rains will come.

Emma, Gemma, and Vladimir

In the fall of 1958 my friend, Hoddy Schepman, started his PhD. work in Comparative Literature at Cornell. Before he left for Ithaca he told me he was taking a course in the modern novel taught by Vladimir Nabokov, whose notoriety and fame had rocketed with the US publication of Lolita earlier in the year.

When he came home at Christmas, he told me that there was nothing comparative or maybe even modern about Nabakov’s course. According to Vlad the “modern novel” began and ended with Gustav Flaubert’s Madame Bovary, so it was the only one he planned to teach that fall. Hoddy said it was the best class he’d ever taken.

M. Bovary

Nabokov was famous for his eccentricities so the story resonates. He was a famous lepidopterist (butterfly expert), a literary critic (four volume translation with commentary on Alexander Pushkin’s Eugene Onegin), a novelist whose first nine were written in Russian but who became one of the great wordsmiths in English literature as well as a linguist who spoke fluent Russian, French, German, and English.

So, that takes care of Vladimir…

This is really about Emma and Gemma. It’s also about Madame Bovary – its fame, durability, and a current film and graphic novel based on the story, but Emma and Gemma are central to the stories. The original was published in serial form in 1856 and immediately caused a ruckus. The author and his publisher were sued for obscenity and when they were acquitted its notoriety made the book a hugely popular success. The title character, Emma, is a young woman who fantasizes about a life of luxury and romance but finds herself trapped in marriage to Charles Bovary, a boring, older, provincial doctor in a small village in Normandy. They have a daughter but she finds motherhood equally boring and begins to act out with a pair of adulterous affairs and the creation of a luxury lifestyle she can’t afford but hopes will fulfill her fantasies. The men she chooses are happy to oblige her sexually but not ready to sweep her away to Paris and her lust for luxury eventually drives Charles into bankruptcy. Spoiler alert – things do not turn out well.

Madame Bovary is one of the world’s great novels and it has had a serial life in film as well. The earliest modern version, in 1949, starred Jennifer Jones in the title role. More recent adaptations were a 1991 film starring Isabelle Huppert, a 2000 BBC miniseries with Francis O’Conner and Hugh Bonneville, and a 2014 version with Mia Wasikowska. I watched the 2014 film the other night and thought it was beautifully made but the anti-heroine lacked the juice of a restless character like Emma.

M. Bovary the Film

Now comes Gemma Bovery a film adaptation of the graphic novel by Posey Simmonds. In this satirical version of the story, Emma is Gemma, an English expatriate played beautifully by English actress Gemma (yes, that’s her name) Arterton, who moves to a small village in France with her older husband (Charles) where they act out a version of Monsieur Flaubert’s trysting characters – with a Madame Bovary/Gemma Bovery besotted baker and some odd plot twists thrown in. I’m a big fan of small movies, and Gemma Bovery definitely hit my sweet spot in that category. Gemma, the actress, plays a ripe, modern depiction of Emma the bored, restless, lusting character. She commands the screen as a contemporary, unfulfilled Emma. She’s not the materialistic country girl seeking romance that Flaubert created. She’s a modern woman displaced from the urban scene she wanted to trade for the bucolic French countryside only to find out there was nothing to do there.

If you know the novel you will discover that arsenic plays a role in the film, as it does in the book, but with a different twist. Gemma is terrified of mice and that’s where the arsenic comes in. I’d be happy to protect her from the mice – wouldn’t you?

M. Bovary - Gemma

When my friend told me in 1959 that Nabakov taught Madame Bovary as the only novel in a graduate course in Comparative Literature I thought it was crazy. Now I’m beginning to see the wisdom. The story is eternal and the variations limitless. I plan to stream other versions of the story or get the DVD’s in the next few days. I might even reread the book – C’est tres moderne, n’est pas?

Stay tuned

Europe’s Best Kept Secret

Seasoned travelers love a secret place, somewhere in plain view that others pass by or fail to notice. I’ve spent time on Crete, Rhodes, Mykonos, Mallorca, Ibiza, Formentera, and even Elba, the tiny Italian island where Napoleon was once exiled, but Elba’s big brother, Sardinia, had never been high on my must visit list. It may be the best-kept secret in Europe.

It came out of nowhere when two friends invited us to their wedding. We had been planning to spend two months in Rome and a wedding in Sardinia at the end of June might just be a special way to finish our stay in Italy.

I knew almost nothing about the island except that the Riviera-like Costa Smeralda was beautiful, that the Aga Khan and friends created a super luxury resort there in the 1960’s, and that it was the site of the $2 million birthday party Dennis Koslowski threw for his then wife on his way to Club Fed, I had no idea the rest of the island was so remarkable.

Sardinia 1

While it’s obviously surrounded by water, the landscape is harsh – rocky, hilly, dusty, covered with giant granite boulders and jagged mountain ridges. The vegetation is desert-like, at least in the north, with tall cacti and thorny mesquite crowding the boulders. At the same time, the roads are lined with 15’ tall water-thrifty oleander bushes that add color and fragrance as you move around the island. It takes roughly an hour to make the 30-mile trip from Palau in the north to Olbia, site of the island’s main airport. The roads are good but narrow and twisty with no shoulder and car window high steel guardrails crowding the edge. We saw a number of bicycle riders on these roads but concerns about drivers would take the joy out of it for me. Italian drivers are used to cyclists but there are stretches on this 30-mile road where they might not be able to pass for 4-5 miles – a true test of patience for drivers and anxiety producing for cyclists.

Sardinia 2

The 300’ yacht above is an invasive addition to the nature and beauty of the Sardinian landscape. but following the Aga Khan’s development of Cala di Volpe the jet set moved in and made their outpost and Europe’s best kept vacation secret.

We stayed in a tiny bungalow at a campground called Acapulco Camping. Don’t’ ask me where they came up with the name, but for almost a week M and I lived there on the edge of the luxe life. Our friend’s wedding took place in a small wealthy residential enclave called Porto Rafael, the ceremony in a tiny picture perfect chapel just big enough for the bridal party. The rest of the guests stood in the plaza outside surrounded by riotous magenta and torch-red bougainvillea.

Sardinia 3

The bride and groom, Marghe and Johnny, live in Paris. He’s American, she’s Italian, and they both work in fashion and design. He was dressed in a light tan suit and she in a gauzy slim-fitting dress designed by a Spanish designer friend. Needless to say it was a fashionable event, with the women in elegant, mostly long dresses, the men in suits, and a shoe wardrobe exceptional under any circumstances – especially considering the rough stone plaza and steep cobblestone path to the reception. As far as I know there were no injuries.

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Prosecco was the drink of choice and it started flowing at 4:30 p.m. outside the chapel. They were still pouring it at 11:30 as we were leaving and the dancing just getting started. Dinner at the Porto Rafael Yacht Club was a classic Italian five-course meal served over four hours at tables set just above the water in the marina. These are the secondi piatti courses (fish and meat):

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And then there was the cutting of the cake complete with sparklers:

Sardinia 4

It was a Town and Country Magazine worthy event – beautiful setting, fashionable people, wonderful food, full of high energy fun from the first drop of Prosecco to the bridal couple’s arrival by boat at the reception and on to the DJ’s eclectic disco mix.

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Our memorable week in Sardinia was capped off with a dinner the following night on the lawn of a lovely outdoor restaurant overlooking the harbor where we were transfixed by a constantly changing sunset for more than half an hour. It was our last night in Italy and a fitting end to our two-month visit to Rome. I’d go back in a heartbeat – even for just one more dinner and sunset at La Gritta Ristorante. I don’t know where we will spend spring next year, but Rome and Sardinia will be hard to beat.

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Arrivederci Italia! Grazie per tutto!