Capitol Hill, Elliott Bay Books, and Richard Hugo House

I mentioned in the first of these 30/30 posts (October 1) that they are my contributions to a project called the 30/30 Challenge. It’s a fundraising campaign to support Richard Hugo House in Seattle. I donated $50 to enter the Challenge and committed to write at least 30 minutes every day for 30 days through the month of October. Others participating in the Challenge are raising money by asking friends to support their participation, and while I support their effort I’m choosing to keep it personal and use the Challenge as a prompt for my own writing. I’m taking a yearlong manuscript course memoir and I’m using 30/30 as a way to exercise some of my writing muscles.

Hugo House

Hugo House is a non-profit literary community center named for Richard Hugo, a Seattle poet and creative writing teacher. It was founded in 1997 as a gathering place for established and aspiring writers. It offers an extensive catalog of classes in fiction, non-fiction, and poetry taught by established writers, including a writer-in-residence. Some of the classes are one day workshops led by visiting writers while others are yearlong manuscript classes intended for help writers polish works intended for publication.

Seattle has consistently been ranked America’s #2 most literate city, just behind Washington DC. The city has a great tradition as a home for writers, poets, and independent bookstores. In fact, Elliott Bay Book Company, one of America’s most famous independents is just two blocks away from Hugo House.

Elliott Bay

The Capitol Hill neighborhood that is home to both Hugo House and Elliott Bay has also become a mecca for interesting upscale restaurants in one of the country’s most food obsessed cities. Capitol Hill, it seems, has something to feed to both the literary and culinary interests of Seattle residents.

M and I love the neighborhood and scan the Weekend Section of the Seattle Times every Friday to see what writers are in town and who’s reading from their new work. There are several good venues, depending on the size of the intended audience. One or more of them – Town Hall, the Microsoft Auditorium at the main Seattle Library, the University Bookstore and Third Place Books – offer a reading almost every night.

Our favorite is Elliott Bay. The store is gigantic and the architecture welcoming. The readings are delivered in an intimate downstairs space. We often go to hear writers we don’t know but whose work sounds intriguing. Last week I went to hear a novelist named Peter Fromm read from his new novel, If Not For This. I didn’t know anything about the author or the book but it sounded interesting. It’s a love story with a nasty twist of fate as this adventurous outdoor loving couple finds themselves dealing with a new baby and a diagnosis of multiple sclerosis.

I am astounded at the number of excellent writers, artists, and musicians who are producing noteworthy work and who remain virtually unknown. Pete Fromm is one of them. He’s published 4 short story collections several novels and is the winner of several literary awards. He lives with his family in Missoula, which is one of my favorite places, and teaches at Pacific University, a small liberal arts college, in Forest Grove, Oregon.

I couldn’t have been more impressed with Pete’s reading of If Not For This. If I didn’t have 20 other books stacked beside my chair I’d finish reading what he started.

Peter Fromm

I’m told that as we get old we need to exercise our brains as well as our bodies. I tried crossword puzzles and though I like them I get discouraged when I can only finish Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday in the New York Times. Thursday through Sunday’s are too hard for me and I’m too competitive to admit defeat. I’m hoping that tennis, guitar, and writing are just as good for the brain. Maybe next week I’ll look at Thursday’s puzzle. In the meantime I’ll keep plugging away at 30/30 and the memoir manuscript.

More tomorrow…

Tale of Two Dinners

I love good food, and the older I get the more I don’t want to settle for less. It can be at home, take out or served in a restaurant, but wherever it is eaten good food is food made with high quality ingredients, attention to detail, concern for presentation, and a desire to please. It doesn’t have to be expensive but high quality ingredients can be surprisingly expensive. Kraft parmesan in the little green shaker box is not a substitute for Reggiano Parmesano. There is no substitute for Reggiano. You get the idea.

M and I like the “small plates” food revolution that kicked off about 10 or 15 years ago. It’s the way we like to eat, sharing several plates – what used to be called appetizers, and we often go to Happy Hours not only because it’s cheaper but because the Happy Hour menus feature a limited selection of small plates that go well with drinks.

Nevertheless, on special occasions we still go out and have a multi-course meal, and we are always on the lookout for restaurants with a little flare and a reputation for originality. Last year, for Christmas, one of our sons gave us a gift certificate for The Herbfarm, a legendary high end eatery in Woodinville that made its reputation serving meals made with locally sourced products and herbs from its own garden. It was a thoughtful gift and it came with an apology for not being able to underwrite the whole meal. The kid has good taste but a limited bank account.

Herbfarm

I had been to The Herbfarm before but M had not and we were grateful for the gift and excited to try it again.

It’s definitely a special occasion place but we got off on the wrong foot right away when M called to make the reservation. The hostess provided a list of do’s and don’ts and asked for our credit card number. M told her we had a gift certificate and she would be happy to give her the number to hold the reservation. No – that wasn’t good enough; she needed the credit card and the $650 bill for the dinner (including gratuity) would be charged automatically on the night of the dinner. That’s right, dinner for two would be $650.

I’m highly suspicious of restaurants with attitude. Those that talk down to customers and treat them like ignorant peasants. “You couldn’t possibly understand how wonderful and complicated it is to prepare food the way WE do it.” My guard is always up when there is a hint of attitude, and my guard was up when we arrived for our dinner.

The Herbfarm has one seating at 7PM and it’s a fixed 9-course meal with paired wines. Guests are encouraged to arrive 30 minutes early for a guided tour of the herb garden and then seated all together at the same time. The meal lasts 4 hours. I have a 2.5 hour ass.

Herbfarm menu

 

The interior of the restaurant is dark. Dark wood. Dark table settings. Antique silver pieces. Subdued lighting from old fashioned chandeliers. It was midsummer but there was no light from the outside. The feeling is medieval.

I won’t bore you with detailed descriptions of the 9 courses. The food was well prepared and nicely presented, but the falderal surrounding the meal was pretentious and unnecessary. The staff was introduced. The history of The Herbfarm was reviewed. The chef was introduced. The chef explained that everything served was sourced within 100 miles of the restaurant, including the mustard and pickles and blueberries ad nauseum. The owners were introduced and each course was described in detail. All of this before we had a bite of anything.

Herbfarm plate

 

By the time the 7th course, a wild blackberry soufflé with rose-geranium saffron sauce was served we were 3h 15min into the 4 hour ordeal and I was ready to bolt. I might have endured but for the fact that since coffee is not grown within 100 miles of the restaurant only herbal tea would be served. That didn’t do it for me so at the 3h 45min mark we left.

I know The Herbfarm does a quality job at every stage of the experience. In fact, one of the most impressive things about the evening was that as we were leaving the hostess, in the entry way was waiting to hand me my jacket and as we walked out the door the car was idling at the curb. How they did that I will never know. We hadn’t announced our departure. The bill was prepaid. We were leaving early. It’s still a mystery to me. Clearly they are paying attention.

Despite the fact that everything is well done, it’s not my kind of well done. I don’t like the pretension and the “big deal” attitude. I like my food straight up. Simple or elegant I like it straight up. Two weeks ago we ate lunch at Emeril’s in New Orleans. The three course lunch with two glasses of wine and 20% tip was less than $100. Now that was a meal I enjoyed – food, service, and ambience. The whole nine yards.

On Tuesday we rode our bikes to Woodinville for Happy Hour at the Hollywood Tavern. Talk about simple. I had a burger and a pint of amber. M had seared sirloin tips and a glass of Pinot Grigio. $35 round trip. And we sat outside at a picnic table next to the fire pit. The Hollywood is roughly 200 yards from The Herbfarm and we saved $615.

Hollywood Tavern

More tomorrow…

Living National Treasure

In 1950 the Japanese Diet formalized a tradition by enacting the Law for the Protection of Cultural Properties. The new law conferred a special appellation, “Living National Treasure,” on artists of unusual merit – those that had “attained a high mastery of an art or craft.” The status is awarded to individuals designated as masters of those special intangible skills and cultural properties worthy of preservation.

The US also recognizes its artists, but the Japanese honor draws attention to the ongoing artistry while the Kennedy Center Honors tend to be more of a “lifetime achievement award.” There’s a difference. Our way pales by comparison to the designation of a Living National Treasure.

 I haven’t always been a dedicated fan and follower of The American Songbook. I’m more into folk-rock and blues, but a subscription to Sirius XM satellite radio and M’s love of the songbook and musical theater has helped me develop a real appreciation for the genre. All this is by way of saying I now believe Mr. Tony Bennett should be celebrated as a Living National Treasure. In 2005 he was honored by the Kennedy Center but it’s not the same.

Tony Bennett

Since 2002 I’ve been listening more closely. That was the year he released an album of duets with KD Lang. It was a unique collaboration, the American crooner and the androgynous Canadian country rocker. Very out of the box. Delicious.

Then in 2006, after the Kennedy Center honor, came the first of three more extraordinary collections – also duets. He just keeps getting, well… better. It’s a great body of work. The first Duets CD included singers as diverse as John Legend, the Dixie Chicks, Elvis Costello, Diana Krall and Michael Buble. It was as surprising in its execution as it was in its lineup. In 2011 he followed up with Duets II and the diversity continued featuring such un-Tony-like talents as Willie Nelson, Amy Winehouse, John Mayer and Queen Latifah.

Tony Bennett Duets

But… the hands down best cut on the Duets II album is The Lady is a Tramp, a rocking jazzy version with Lady Gaga.  Yes, that Lady Gaga. Check it out on YouTube. I promise you’ll be dancing within seconds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPAmDULCVrU  They are sensational.

IMG_1600

 

Tony and Gaga are magic, and after Duets Tony knew it knew it and wanted more magic. “Lady” was the first track on Duets II and last month (September 2014) the two of them released Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga Cheek to Cheek. The 15 songs are all standards, but they seem fresh because of the give and take, back and forth of these two amazing jazz singers.  And, at 88 he’s working harder than ever. You can hear the changes in his voice from the KD Lang collaboration to the Gaga CD, but with him it was never really about the voice. Like Sinatra and Mel Torme it is the impeccable timing and unique phrasing that makes him a great singer.

This is a screen shot from the YouTube video. You get the idea?  I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

More tomorrow…

The Last Hair Raising Days in Saigon

In Rory Kennedy’s new documentary film, Last Days In Vietnam, a jowly Henry Kissinger pontificates about how the 1973 Paris Peace Accords provided the best agreement the US could negotiate – what Richard Nixon called “peace with honor.” It’s the same language Chamberlain used in 1938, and the follow up results were not dissimilar.

This is the same devious, Rasputin-like, Kissinger who engineered the 1969 carpet-bombing of Cambodia and then had the balls to accept the 1973 Nobel Peace Prize for his work on the Paris Peace Accords. The North Vietnamese negotiator, Le Duc Tho, who was also awarded the prize refused to accept it. He at least had some integrity. He knew it was a sham and wasn’t going to pretend that it was something it wasn’t.

Rory Kennedy film

You can see for yourself how effective the Accords were and how it all played out in Kennedy’s film. It details the last days of the war, the chaos in and around Saigon, and the evacuation of the last Americans and many of their Vietnamese supporters. The film was made using archival footage, much of it never before seen, and commentary by several people who were in and around the US Embassy in April 1975.

It’s reasonable to ask if we need another film about America’s failure in Vietnam. In the interest of full disclosure, having spent much of the last five years there, I have an abiding interest in Vietnam and its people. I think the film is worth seeing and that it adds to the historical record. Like all good stories, there are good guys, bad guys, plot twists, heroics, nail-biting suspense, and some astonishing details that are not part of the conventional Vietnam canon. There may even be some revisionist history. Judge for yourself.

ABC’s Jonathan Karl talked to the filmmaker recently and that interview is also worth watching. http://abcnews.go.com/ThisWeek/video/lens-days-vietnam-25657454. After 39 years we are still learning from our experience. The “peace with honor” part of the Accords provided for the immediate withdrawal of US combat troops, leaving only advisors and civilian contractors after 1973. In the film a CIA agent stationed at the US Embassy in Saigon tells us that the North Vietnamese were held in check by their fear of retaliation at the hands of the “evil” Nixon but that when he resigned in disgrace they were willing to test the Americans with military probes into South Vietnam. When they saw that the Americans had no stomach for more war they violated the Accords and kept on rolling toward Saigon.

Add to this mix an Ambassador who was a clueless Cold War patriot who refused to consider an evacuation plan even when the NVA was bearing down on Saigon and you have the elements of a real thriller.

With the Ambassador steadfastly refusing to do anything, US diplomats and military officers, disobeyed him and started working on a ‘black ops” plan to evacuate. When the Ambassador got the final order from Washington to evacuate the Americans, the same people disobeyed again and refused to leave without their Vietnamese co-workers and their families. There are heroes and goats in this drama.

Though he is not mentioned in Kennedy’s documentary there was another American hero whose story in the last days is equally heroic and suspenseful. John Riordan was the assistant bank manager at Citibank in Saigon. I met John in 2011 and heard the story from him over a bowl of French Onion soup. I wrote about it in my Saigon Diary blog, but I wasn’t the only one who thought it was a great story. CBS picked it up and did a segment on 60 Minutes, calling John “The Oskar Schindler of Vietnam.” John, with the Saigon CEO out of the country and unable to return, defied the orders of Citibank headquarters and acted in much the same way as the “black ops” guys at the Embassy. He engineered the evacuation of all the Citibank Vietnamese employees and their families – 105 people – in the last days.

John Riordan

This is a picture of John today and this is a link to his hair-raising story: http://www.cbsnews.com/news/the-oskar-schindler-of-vietnam-war Unfortunately, the entire interview is not available but you can hear part of it and read the rest on the CBS website. I talked to John after the 60 Minutes segment and he was surprised that there was still interest in the story. He told me “I was just doing what I thought was right.”

I wish there were more John Riordan’s in the world. Currently, we are leaving Iraqi and Afghani staff and interpreters behind as we scurry to extricate ourselves for these failed ventures, abandoning those whose help we desperately needed who desperately need us now.

More tomorrow…

Chef, Food Trucks, and Cuban Sandwiches

The sun crossed the equator nine days ago on its way to the Tropic of Capricorn. Summer turning to fall. The days are shorter now – about equal night and day signaling a change in orientation for me. The outdoor pool closed, temperatures cooler, and rain is on its way. For the past three months I’ve spent more time outdoors than in. For the next nine months it will be the other way around. I’m back in my “Surviving Seattle” mode.

That means more plays, more movies, more reading, more museums and galleries, and more concerts. It means fewer bike rides and some long drives in search of powder snow. We’ll still get out for an occasional ride, as we did yesterday when the lower sun angle caught the beginning of the changing colors.  It’s still beautiful but I know it’s fleeting.

Yesterday’s ride had a purpose. On Saturday night M and I went to a $3 movie at the Crest. The Crest is the last stop before a film goes from public release to DVD. This one was Chef, the Jon Favreau story about Carl Casper a high-end chef who quits his job at an upscale LA restaurant rather than defer to the owner (Dustin Hoffman) who wants him to cook tired old classics for a food critic coming to the restaurant that night.

Chef-Movie

It’s a great romp as Chef Carl falls from grace, learns the downside of a viral Twitter feed, rehabilitates himself and reconnects with his tech-savvy pre-teen son and drop dead beautiful ex-wife (Sofia Vergara). He returns to Miami, the scene of his initial success, as the “nanny” for his son while his ex-wife does business there. The rehabilitation takes an odd turn when he decides to renovate a dilapidated food truck and specialize in Cubanos, those scrumptious Cuban sandwiches.

Renovated and road worthy, Carl, his line cook, Martin, and Carl’s son, Percy, drive El Jefe, the food truck, across the country to LA with stops in New Orleans and Austin TX. Along the way the crowds go crazy for their Cubanos.

CHEF_09298.NEF

 

It’s a rollicking, feel-good road trip. I loved it. The stop in New Orleans was on Frenchmen Street where M and I listened to street music two weeks ago, and the stop in Austin was in front of a club on 6th Street, where I heard bluesman Albert Collins several years ago. When they arrive in LA they set up in small parking lot on Abbot Kinney Blvd in Venice, where we M and I ate Korean food from another food truck a couple years ago. It was a fun trip down memory lane for us.

But, I digress – back to our bike ride… The day after the movie we rode to Woodinville to try a restaurant we had ridden by literally hundreds of times. I always said we should stop for lunch, but when we’re riding it never seems like a good idea to stop for a big meal. This time it was the destination.

The Twisted Cuban Café and Bar in Woodinville is away from the main business district, but not far from “winery row,” that hot strip of wineries that has become hugely popular in recent years. It’s still full of warehouses and storage units, but it has its own charm.

The Twisted is open from 11am to 9pm. On Sunday it was totally empty when we arrived at 3pm. I’m always uncomfortable when a restaurant is empty. It’s not a good sign and I usually turn away, but it was the reason we had come so we went on in.

Twisted CafeThe waiter was a friendly, young guy from the Dominican Republic who was very professional. On his recommendation we opted for the Twisted Cuban Sandwich with sides of yuca fries and garbanzo bean salad instead of the Monster Cuban. I washed mine down with a dark amber draft and M chose lemonade because we were on our bikes. Everything was sensational and we each took half a sandwich home with us.

We will definitely go back. I can’t wait to try the pounded Cuban steak. I haven’t had one since the last time I ate at Lila’s on SW 8th Street in Miami. I doubt that the Twisted will cover its steak with a mountain of shoestring potatoes like Lila does, but man those yuca fries would definitely be an acceptable alternative.

I was so impressed with the Twisted Cuban Café and Bar that I emailed Providence Cicero, the food writer for the Seattle Times. I’ve been complaining to her for a couple of years about the lack of good eats in our part of town and wanted to share this find with her. She wrote back saying that she, like us, had passed Twisted a number of times but never tried it. It’s on her list now.

Bon appetit, Providence…