A Crash Course in Ornithology

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This is our Christmas tree. It is a living thing and a central character in a drama unfolding in our own yard. We purchased the tree 12 years ago in a fit of environmental purity and good intention. “Let’s have a living tree instead of spending money on a cut tree every Christmas.” It has worked well for us. It saw some hard times in the years we were going back and forth to Saigon, but it was always outdoors. We knew it would survive, but there were periods when it was a struggle to keep it watered and healthy, and often we would find brown patches and a deck full of needles on our return.

In April we took off again, this time for Paris, and left it in nature’s hands. What we didn’t expect nature to do was to use it as nesting habitat for a mother bird and her brood, but that’s exactly what happened. Last week when Marilynn started watering the tree again she discovered a smallish opening and inside was a nest and four baby birds.

Before the discovery she had noticed a small agitated bird flitting from the lawn to the deck and back again. She could almost feel the tension and watching from a distance she saw that the bird flew right into our Christmas tree. This is how it looked when we peeked into the opening:

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This picture shows only two of the chicks but in the beginning we could see four little beaks reaching for the sky. It was fascinating; we were curious and then protective as the mother flew in and out with food. Almost any time of day she could be seen on the lawn or in the hedge that covers the condo wall and even hopping around on our deck picking up seeds.

I’m not a birder, but I think our little neighbors are rose-breasted or black-headed grosbeaks – small, colorful, and low flying. The mother has a reddish breast and some light flecks on the darker feathers surrounding the red. As soon as we discovered the nest we focused on the chicks and their welfare. Whenever we returned home the first thing we did was check the nest. We worried about predators like squirrels and cats but didn’t see any, and then after a few quiet days we became alarmed when two crows started hanging around.

There are thousands of crows in our area. At sunset the sky is almost black with them flying east to wherever they nest at night, but they rarely come close or hang around. Last year, because there are so many in our neighborhood, we bought a book called “Gifts of the Crow”, written by a UW wildlife scientist and illustrated by Tony Angell, a local artist. Crows are much more interesting than I ever imagined. The book made that clear. On alert because of the baby birds, we became aware that our two crow visitors got extremely agitated; flying low noisy passes whenever I approached the tree. Here’s a picture of one of them above our courtyard.

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Very quickly it became open warfare. The crows had ID’d me as their nemesis and waited for me to step out on the porch, cross the parking lot, or walk to the pool in the morning. Whenever I did they shadowed me – flying low over my head, perching on nearby trees, and squawking their heads off. Meanwhile, we were keeping an eye on the tree and the nest. The mother was still in the area – hopping on the deck, worming on the grass and picking up seeds in the hedge. She was very skittish and wary of our movements, but more concerned with the crows and their increasing aggresiveness. Then came an escalation as the crows decided to bomb my car in the lot. The day I had it washed I parked under a tree in the lot and the following morning this is what it looked. War…

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Then, just when I thought I had the crows figured out, a subplot emerges to confuse us even more. After checking the nest for the chicks (no movement but I think I can still see three of them curled up asleep) I see some movement in the ivy below the deck railing. When I toss a garden stake at the rustling ivy I startle myself and a wounded crow hidden in the ivy. This one can’t fly but it scuttles through the ivy and disappears into the dense growth near the corner of the building. The other crows are raising a noisy ruckus as I probe around looking for their friend. I’ve lost the wounded crow but the others keep up with the noise and swooping low attacks.

After a week of this back and forth with the crows and our protective vigil around the tree we notice the mother has disappeared. When I check the nest it looks like there is less volume inside but that there might be a chick or chicks curled up asleep. We decide to give it a day and then take a more serious look. The crows are still dive-bombing me on the way to the pool or when I walk out on the back deck. The injured crow is nowhere to be seen. It’s either dead or healed itself enough to fly away.

M and I are almost certain the babies are dead and when we check the nest we find it empty except for one dead chick curled up in the bottom. Did the crows get in there or did the mother bird somehow get them to a safer place?

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We are both devastated. Nature is neutral. We are emotional. In our research we are advised to move the empty nest to the trash or another location in order to discourage the mother from using it again next year.

We do that, but there is an alternative end to the story because within a day we discover this in one of our flowerbeds…

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Yes, that’s a mother duck sitting on eggs. Now everyone in the condo complex is in a heightened protective mode. We have no idea how long she’s been there or how long she has to sit on the eggs but we check her every morning and hope the crows don’t have her in their sights. This has been a crash course in ornithology. I still don’t know much, but it really helps to have it happening in our own yard. It definitely gets the protective juices flowing – and increases my dislike for crows. Pellet gun anyone?

Travel Jitters

I never sleep well the night before an early morning flight. It isn’t the travel that keeps me awake; it’s the fear that something will go wrong in the long list of things that could go wrong. The night is fraught with anxiety, driven by the awareness that I have to get up early, shower, shave, and dress, make a final check of the bags, travel to the airport, find a baggage cart, schlep the bags to the counter, check-in, go through security, and maybe get a latte before boarding begins. The process is even more stressful when the airport and check-in are new or unfamiliar.

Cut to the last day in May as we prepare to leave Paris after our two-months of living life as Parisians. Air travel these days requires a lot of prep and patience, a sense of humor, and a reset of expectations to the lowest possible level. It is never, in my recent experience, what I hope it will be. It is almost always a stress ridden, anxiety filled disappointment.

Because we’re in Paris and I am not fluent in French I’m concerned that there will be a mix up and misunderstanding. On our way over to Paris we hired a car service to meet us and deliver us to the apartment where the agent met us and let us into our new home. When I mentioned the price ($100) my friends who live in Paris they told me the cost was outrageous and that we should use their discount taxi service that charges about half that amount. It sounded good to me since they were essentially “local” folks and since they offered to help with the arrangements.

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So, a week before departure I order the taxi, give them our information, and arrange the pick up for 7:30AM on the 31st. There is a flurry of email traffic between my friend, the discount taxi provider, and me, as a third-party beneficiary. Numbers are exchanged and a confirmation requested. I’m still nervous even though it is established that the taxi company reps spoke English.

Paris UberIn the days running up to the departure date my anxiety increases because I haven’t received confirmation of the date, time, and address of the pick up. We do a test run on Uber as a back up just in case the other arrangement fails, and Uber works flawlessly. Marilynn is big on backup whether it’s peanut butter or taxis. Nevertheless, finally, on the 30th I finally get a confirmation call from the discount taxi on my mobile. My anxiety subsides and I feet better about the arrangement. In the meantime my friends leave town – not that they could have do anything for me if the plan fails – but there was a certain amount of reassurance in their local presence. Now they are gone.

At this point I’d give anything to be able to channel Dave Barry or Nora Ephron. There is a lot of black humor in the misery of international travel and its chain reaction fuck-ups and miscues.

On the morning of the 31st everything starts out perfectly. There is plenty of time to get it all together; eat our last containers of yoghurt, check and recheck the apartment for left items, strip the sheets, start the dishwasher, empty the garbage, and schlepp the bags, including my guitar, down the 81 steps, through the courtyard and two security doors, to the sidewalk in front of 40 Avenue Junot. The last irrevocable act is to leave the keys to the apartment on the table inside the door for the agent to pick up later that day.

At 7:25AM we’re outside the front door on Avenue Junot,. We’re neurotic about being on time but we make it with time to spare this morning. And then – we wait… and wait… and at 7:40 prodded by M I call the discount taxi number. My heart rate climbs appreciably when I detect a sleepy voice on the other end. Does discount taxi have an office or is it someone’s apartment? I listen more closely. I’m right, she is sleepy and it takes a minute for her to understand that I am her client waiting for a pre-arranged taxi. Mais oui, she says. She will “call” the driver and get back to me. I have a dark suspicion that the driver is in the bed beside her, maybe even pulling on his pants as we speak. I picture him looking for his keys as the “dispatcher” stalls for time.

At 7:45 she calls back to tell me the driver is on his way. I ask how long it will take to get and she tells me about 15 minutes. M and I are now freaking out, and she signals that she’s going to cross the square to look for a taxi on Rue Caulincort, the busy street just across from the apartment. Uber is not an option. It requires an Internet connection and because we’re outside the apartment we have no Internet – even though we have emergency phone service. We’re never doing this again without full on wireless – Google Maps, Uber, restaurants, Metro and bus maps – we need it more than ever as my brain shrivels and the bucket overflows with information.

Meanwhile back on the street; it’s Saturday morning and thanks to light traffic there is a notable increase in the number of available taxis. Within a minute M has flagged one down. It’s a minivan and just right for us and the number of bags we have.

We’re still OK because of our on-time neurosis. We’ve given ourselves an hour for the drive to CDG and two hours for check in. The driver of the minivan-taxi pulls over and jumps out to assist. He’s the energizer bunny, a small, smiling Frenchman in a nice sport coat and slacks who loads our bags effortlessly and, when we’re blocked by a garbage truck, enlists the help of the driver to lift our heavy bag over the barrier. Then he gets the driver to back up and let us out. M and I look at each other, astonished that a garbage truck driver would not only help us but also accommodate us by moving his truck. Vive la France.

Traffic is light, which helps us relax. Meanwhile, the energizer bunny is smiling, talking, and gesticulating as he regales us with a rapid fire French monologue about how much he loves Amerique, Las Vegas (ooh la la), and Vallee des Morts (tres chaud, n’est pas?). The energizer bunny loves Death Valley. How lucky could we get? We might have ended up with an Algerian freedom fighter just back from Syria but we end up with a happy go lucky Frenchman who loves America.

Paris CDGWe direct the energizer bunny to Terminal 2F where the boarding pass tells us we check in. As we pull up to the terminal the meter clicks over to 44 Euros – 5 less than the mythic discount taxi – and 66 less than the car service we used on arrival. Meanwhile the energizer bunny has hopped out of the driver’s seat, retrieved a baggage cart, and loaded our bags for the terminal. When I hand him the 44 Euros plus a 10 Euro tip. I think he’s going to hug me. Merci, merci, merci. Bon voyage. Bonne journee. J’aime l’amerique. J’aime la Vallee des Morts. J’aime Las Vegas. C’est incroyable. Formidable. Au revoir, Messiur Dame. Au revoir.

Next up is the check-in. Smooth as silk. Friendly, smiling, welcoming agent who tags our bags (more about that later) and sends us off to the gate. She has written L45 on the boarding pass and we head in the well-signed direction of F21 –55. Gate 45 on the other side of security is in a newer part of the airport. We find some seats in the boarding area and I get us a couple of very good lattes. We have an hour and a half until departure time, but with about an hour remaining we comment that there are no other people in the boarding area, so off I go to ask why. Well, of course, L45 is not a mistake. L45 is our departure gate, but L45 is in Terminal E and Terminal E is a good half-mile from where we are in Terminal F. So, we pack up and head downstairs through a tunnel-like corridor to L45 in Terminal E. Now why would they ask us to check in at Terminal F if we’re departing from Terminal E? And why didn’t the friendly, welcoming agent who checked us in give us that information along with directions to Terminal E where Gate L45 was located? Beats me, but we did ask in a timely manner and are able to make the trek to L45, through Pass Controlee and another security checkpoint in time to board the Boeing 777ER 30 with time to spare.

We were devastated when our connecting flight to San Francisco was canceled causing us to miss our Air France A380 flight on the way over to Paris – especially since we ended up on our much-hated Delta again. Still, we managed to actually get Air France on the way home and the ride to Houston was great. The crew was professional and attractive. The food was good, and the restrooms were surprisingly clean. 9 hours and 45 minutes from Paris to Houston was tolerable if not fun. I watched four movies; Casablanca, Chicago, The Artist, and A Winter’s Tale and the trip to that point was tolerable.

The taxi and CDG terminal snafus notwithstanding, everything worked out and we were OK when we landed in Houston. The heartbeat was back to normal and two glasses of Bordeaux and a chunk of Roquefort eased the pain of the small seat and long haul. But what do you get when you arrive in Houston?

An airport that bears George Bush’s name is highly suspect. Hell, he couldn’t even find the airport after he finished flight training. Attaching his name to an airport almost insures poor design, poor planning, poor execution, poor signage, and poor attention to detail. That was all true in our experience. But that’s another story…

To be continued.

Spring Postcards From Paris: 2014

All of the pics are from my iPhone. What an amazing device. These are some of the things I will miss when we leave on Saturday.

Our neighborhood in Montmartre IMG_0769 Our apartment – “old Paris style” IMG_1249 Bakeries like Du Pain et des Idees (Bread and Ideas) in the Canal St. Martin district Bread and Ideas Baguettes from our local boulangerie, Maison Laurent IMG_1248 Our favorite restaurant: Au Virage Lepic on Rue Lepic Au Virage Burrata: A soft Italian buffalo cheese from Italy at Oggi on Rue Lepic. It’s the best appetizer ever Burrata The Seine from Quai Voltaire IMG_0904 Musee d’Orsay: Sacre Coeur through the Clock window IMG_1169 View of Notre Dame from the Batobus IMG_1151Giverny: Lily ponds and Monet’s dining room IMG_1084   IMG_1097 Monet paintings Water Lilies The painting that gave Impressionism its name Impressionisme Painting Chagall’s Palais Garnier Opera ceiling Chagall's ceiling Break dancers on Rue Montorgueil Break dancers Roland Garros: M watching the Djokovic match on the giant screen Roland GarrosAnd the friends we saw and spent time with here – Johnny Price and Margherita, Jon and Leslie Maksik, Ruti and Gerard Mesnil, Steve and Karen Demorest, Susan Ireland – and all the Parisians who put up with my butchered French and still made us feel welcome.

What Kind of Footprint Will You Leave?

BerndThough Bernd Hummel and Jim Potter never met I like to think they would have enjoyed one another’s company – but I’ll never know. Earlier this month Jim died at age 58 while Marilynn and I were visiting Bernd and his two daughters in Germany. The two men were quite different on the surface of their lives but similar in their deep commitment to the communities where they live and work.

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I met Bernd last weekend at his home in Pirmasens, though I felt that I already knew him through his daughters whom I have known and spent time with in Seattle, Amsterdam, Saigon, and Pirmasens. I met Jim 13 years ago and had dinner with him less than a week before his terminal cancer diagnosis.

The difference between these two men is dramatic; Bernd is a sophisticated global citizen, an art collector and wine connoisseur, a businessman with interests in Europe and Asia whose two internationally educated daughters have been positioned to take over the business when he retires. Jim on the other hand was a no-nonsense, laser-like visionary who, though he had lived in New Zealand and South America, was essentially a street-smart Seattle business and family man who moved to rural Snohomish a few years ago so his wife, Rebecca, could be closer to the horses she loves and cares for.

It’s difficult to construct a sentence that includes the phrases “real estate developer” and “well respected” without drawing a smile from the reader, but Jim and Bernd fit that description perfectly. They’ve both had their critics, but it’s hard to imagine a developer who doesn’t. They have been smart, strategic, courageous and experienced in what it takes to see a project to its successful conclusion – no matter how many years it takes.

I didn’t know Bernd Hummel until recently, but I have seen what he’s done for his community and I think Jim would have admired the result. He lives in Pirmasens a south German town of 40,000 that was once, not so long ago, the shoe manufacturing capital of the world. Everyone in the shoe business, worldwide, knows about Pirmasens – but then came globalization and outsourcing and Pirmasens hit the skids.

When that happened, Bernd’s company, Bernd Hummel Holding, GmbH, did what other companies felt compelled to do to survive. He outsourced the manufacture of his brand, KangaROOS, to China, but kept the company headquarters in Pirmasens and did what he could for the community. He bought two of the old bankrupt shoe factories in town. He restored one; a lovely old 1900-era building by retaining its exterior but converting the interior to modern minimalist office space. He moved his own company in and built two restaurants, an art exhibition space, and offices for other companies to lease. Then he had the other factory building redesigned, renovated, and converted it into loft living spaces. Now, instead of having two giant, decaying factories as eyesores, the town has two dynamic modern structures that update the town’s architecture, provide jobs, and enhance the community.

Jim and Bernd were both savvy investors and their ability to see beyond the near term future enabled them to anticipate trends and make courageous decisions. Recently, Jim started a new company, called Footprint, that builds micro-housing – tiny, affordable multiple housing units with shared kitchens – that fulfill a temporary housing need in dense urban communities. 7 of these projects were completed and he had 10 more under development in Seattle, Portland, Oakland, and Detroit when he died.

But, it isn’t business success that sets these two men apart; ultimately both are community builders and community investors. Bernd did what he could for Pirmasens when globalization devastated his community and he recently purchased a factory going out of business in order to bring some manufacturing back to Pirmasens. The new factory is making handmade leather KangaROOS – beautiful shoes.

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So far he’s only breaking even on the new factory. His plan is to train more shoemakers in partnership with local schools which will help reduce unemployment in an area where it is high while at the same developing a market for these handmade shoes that he thinks will eventually make the project profitable. In the interim he’s creating jobs for some of the people who lost them to Asia a few years ago.

Jim was also about community building, but in a different way. First and foremost he was a family man. As a former Eagle Scout, he served as a Boy Scout leader for 7 years when his boys were growing up, and, building on his experience as a Rotary exchange student to New Zealand, was an active lifelong Rotarian. At home he promoted and supported PeaceTrees Vietnam, a Seattle-based organization that clears unexploded ordinance in a war-ravaged part of Vietnam, and he helped found the Academy of Finance to teach high school students in Seattle Public Schools to prepare for careers in business. He was always generous with financial support and his own time for these civic efforts. Yes, he was financially successful but he was much more a giver than a taker and that isn’t always the case with real estate developers.

Bernd Hummel’s efforts are different. He has helped Pirmasens maintain its dignity in the face of economic stress. In 1994 he started bringing world-class artists to Pirmasens for exhibits in the renovated Neuffer am Park building. He showed Picasso and Dali. He invited Christo, Tom Wesselman, Gunther Sachs, and Mel Ramos to come to Pirmasens and exhibit, and recently, working with a German art dealer friend, he began showcasing contemporary Chinese artists. Last week’s opening featured young female artists.

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On Sunday night while we were visiting, KangaROOS helped sponsor and bring a famous tenor, who otherwise wouldn’t visit a small German town, to Pirmasens to sing in the town’s beautiful old Festhalle. These are the kind of things successful entrepreneurs with money and connections can do to improve their communities.

I will miss Jim. He was a friend, philanthropist, and strong family man and I will look forward to knowing Bernd better and to seeing both men’s legacies inspire more successful people to follow their examples. Financial success and community investment are not mutually exclusive. In the best way they are complimentary.

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Footnote from Bob Watt on Jim’s passing:  “Dear friends, Jim finished his days on this earth yesterday, May 6th 2014.  He and I figured out in our last conversation that we ran together more than 2300 times, many of those times with you. We figured we covered more than 12,000 miles together during the 30 years of running and friendship that we were able to enjoy.”

 

 

Incredulous is the Word that Comes to Mind

I always try to put a positive spin on whatever I post here, but today’s post is a test of that intention. If you read to the end I think you’ll agree that I was successful, but it was not easy.

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This is a picture of the 5 Euro citation that Marilynn got from a hard-ass bus cop today –despite the fact that she has a Navigo monthly bus and Metro pass and had tried to swipe it on the machine that records and validates a passenger’s “ticket.”

And here is the mug shot of the criminal herself as recorded on her Navigo pass. The ink is barely dry on both the pass and the citation. Just imagine how proud this cop must be to have nailed that most threatening of criminals, an American Senior Citizen Metro Violator who, despite her possession of the right documentation, was deemed so dangerous that he threatened her with jail if she didn’t cough up the 5 Euros. Justice was clearly served. N’est pas?

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After trying unsuccessfully to explain the mitigating circumstances, which was pointless with our French and his lack of English, two women passengers jumped to Marilynn’s defense and tried to aid in the explanation. Apparently, the bus pass failed to register and validate the transaction. This bus pass protocol is relatively new to us and M didn’t notice that the machine hadn’t beeped its acknowledgment of the swipe.

But the cop – jeans and T-shirt – flashed his cop credentials and asked for our tickets. I gave him mine and he gave it back but immediately asked Marilynn for hers and without an explanation ordered her to pay a 5 Euro fine. We know that he boarded the bus at the same stop we did and that he obviously saw the attempted validation; so he knew she had a pass. The two women passengers tried to help by getting him to drop the fine and issue a warning and/or explanation but he was determined to press on and we felt we had no alternative but to cough up the 5 Euros. Talk about frustration. This is where you wish you could calmly and quietly ream him out in his own language – but we couldn’t and it left our blood pressure climbing into the volcanic range.

I wasn’t thinking clearly but what I should have done is pull out my iPhone, take his picture and video him issuing the ticket while ignoring our explanation. That’s what most young people in America do to keep the police honest and civil. I screwed up and I’m truly sorry I didn’t have the presence of mind to do it today. If I had recorded the transaction I could have sent it to the Metro police, caused some kind of ruckus, and at least had the satisfaction of a good old-fashioned rant.

This experience is so unlike any other we’ve had with the French people on this trip or any other. The whole messy, irritating thing reminded me of Officer Obie and the littering violation in Alice’s Restaurant. Officer Obie in the pursuit of justice arrests Arlo and his friends and takes them to jail for littering. Is anyone still alive who remembers Alice’s Restaurant? It’s a classic and YouTube is right there to refresh your memory.

And… If you don’t know the song you’ll have to wait ‘till it comes around again on the ghee-tar, like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m57gzA2JCcM

I was, we were, incredulous at today’s main event but listening to Arlo sing about Alice, the restaurant, and Officer Obie makes us feel A-OK. I hope you feel the same.