Spring Postcards From Paris: 2014

All of the pics are from my iPhone. What an amazing device. These are some of the things I will miss when we leave on Saturday.

Our neighborhood in Montmartre IMG_0769 Our apartment – “old Paris style” IMG_1249 Bakeries like Du Pain et des Idees (Bread and Ideas) in the Canal St. Martin district Bread and Ideas Baguettes from our local boulangerie, Maison Laurent IMG_1248 Our favorite restaurant: Au Virage Lepic on Rue Lepic Au Virage Burrata: A soft Italian buffalo cheese from Italy at Oggi on Rue Lepic. It’s the best appetizer ever Burrata The Seine from Quai Voltaire IMG_0904 Musee d’Orsay: Sacre Coeur through the Clock window IMG_1169 View of Notre Dame from the Batobus IMG_1151Giverny: Lily ponds and Monet’s dining room IMG_1084   IMG_1097 Monet paintings Water Lilies The painting that gave Impressionism its name Impressionisme Painting Chagall’s Palais Garnier Opera ceiling Chagall's ceiling Break dancers on Rue Montorgueil Break dancers Roland Garros: M watching the Djokovic match on the giant screen Roland GarrosAnd the friends we saw and spent time with here – Johnny Price and Margherita, Jon and Leslie Maksik, Ruti and Gerard Mesnil, Steve and Karen Demorest, Susan Ireland – and all the Parisians who put up with my butchered French and still made us feel welcome.

What Kind of Footprint Will You Leave?

BerndThough Bernd Hummel and Jim Potter never met I like to think they would have enjoyed one another’s company – but I’ll never know. Earlier this month Jim died at age 58 while Marilynn and I were visiting Bernd and his two daughters in Germany. The two men were quite different on the surface of their lives but similar in their deep commitment to the communities where they live and work.

Potter

I met Bernd last weekend at his home in Pirmasens, though I felt that I already knew him through his daughters whom I have known and spent time with in Seattle, Amsterdam, Saigon, and Pirmasens. I met Jim 13 years ago and had dinner with him less than a week before his terminal cancer diagnosis.

The difference between these two men is dramatic; Bernd is a sophisticated global citizen, an art collector and wine connoisseur, a businessman with interests in Europe and Asia whose two internationally educated daughters have been positioned to take over the business when he retires. Jim on the other hand was a no-nonsense, laser-like visionary who, though he had lived in New Zealand and South America, was essentially a street-smart Seattle business and family man who moved to rural Snohomish a few years ago so his wife, Rebecca, could be closer to the horses she loves and cares for.

It’s difficult to construct a sentence that includes the phrases “real estate developer” and “well respected” without drawing a smile from the reader, but Jim and Bernd fit that description perfectly. They’ve both had their critics, but it’s hard to imagine a developer who doesn’t. They have been smart, strategic, courageous and experienced in what it takes to see a project to its successful conclusion – no matter how many years it takes.

I didn’t know Bernd Hummel until recently, but I have seen what he’s done for his community and I think Jim would have admired the result. He lives in Pirmasens a south German town of 40,000 that was once, not so long ago, the shoe manufacturing capital of the world. Everyone in the shoe business, worldwide, knows about Pirmasens – but then came globalization and outsourcing and Pirmasens hit the skids.

When that happened, Bernd’s company, Bernd Hummel Holding, GmbH, did what other companies felt compelled to do to survive. He outsourced the manufacture of his brand, KangaROOS, to China, but kept the company headquarters in Pirmasens and did what he could for the community. He bought two of the old bankrupt shoe factories in town. He restored one; a lovely old 1900-era building by retaining its exterior but converting the interior to modern minimalist office space. He moved his own company in and built two restaurants, an art exhibition space, and offices for other companies to lease. Then he had the other factory building redesigned, renovated, and converted it into loft living spaces. Now, instead of having two giant, decaying factories as eyesores, the town has two dynamic modern structures that update the town’s architecture, provide jobs, and enhance the community.

Jim and Bernd were both savvy investors and their ability to see beyond the near term future enabled them to anticipate trends and make courageous decisions. Recently, Jim started a new company, called Footprint, that builds micro-housing – tiny, affordable multiple housing units with shared kitchens – that fulfill a temporary housing need in dense urban communities. 7 of these projects were completed and he had 10 more under development in Seattle, Portland, Oakland, and Detroit when he died.

But, it isn’t business success that sets these two men apart; ultimately both are community builders and community investors. Bernd did what he could for Pirmasens when globalization devastated his community and he recently purchased a factory going out of business in order to bring some manufacturing back to Pirmasens. The new factory is making handmade leather KangaROOS – beautiful shoes.

ROOS

So far he’s only breaking even on the new factory. His plan is to train more shoemakers in partnership with local schools which will help reduce unemployment in an area where it is high while at the same developing a market for these handmade shoes that he thinks will eventually make the project profitable. In the interim he’s creating jobs for some of the people who lost them to Asia a few years ago.

Jim was also about community building, but in a different way. First and foremost he was a family man. As a former Eagle Scout, he served as a Boy Scout leader for 7 years when his boys were growing up, and, building on his experience as a Rotary exchange student to New Zealand, was an active lifelong Rotarian. At home he promoted and supported PeaceTrees Vietnam, a Seattle-based organization that clears unexploded ordinance in a war-ravaged part of Vietnam, and he helped found the Academy of Finance to teach high school students in Seattle Public Schools to prepare for careers in business. He was always generous with financial support and his own time for these civic efforts. Yes, he was financially successful but he was much more a giver than a taker and that isn’t always the case with real estate developers.

Bernd Hummel’s efforts are different. He has helped Pirmasens maintain its dignity in the face of economic stress. In 1994 he started bringing world-class artists to Pirmasens for exhibits in the renovated Neuffer am Park building. He showed Picasso and Dali. He invited Christo, Tom Wesselman, Gunther Sachs, and Mel Ramos to come to Pirmasens and exhibit, and recently, working with a German art dealer friend, he began showcasing contemporary Chinese artists. Last week’s opening featured young female artists.

Young Chinese

On Sunday night while we were visiting, KangaROOS helped sponsor and bring a famous tenor, who otherwise wouldn’t visit a small German town, to Pirmasens to sing in the town’s beautiful old Festhalle. These are the kind of things successful entrepreneurs with money and connections can do to improve their communities.

I will miss Jim. He was a friend, philanthropist, and strong family man and I will look forward to knowing Bernd better and to seeing both men’s legacies inspire more successful people to follow their examples. Financial success and community investment are not mutually exclusive. In the best way they are complimentary.

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Footnote from Bob Watt on Jim’s passing:  “Dear friends, Jim finished his days on this earth yesterday, May 6th 2014.  He and I figured out in our last conversation that we ran together more than 2300 times, many of those times with you. We figured we covered more than 12,000 miles together during the 30 years of running and friendship that we were able to enjoy.”

 

 

Incredulous is the Word that Comes to Mind

I always try to put a positive spin on whatever I post here, but today’s post is a test of that intention. If you read to the end I think you’ll agree that I was successful, but it was not easy.

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This is a picture of the 5 Euro citation that Marilynn got from a hard-ass bus cop today –despite the fact that she has a Navigo monthly bus and Metro pass and had tried to swipe it on the machine that records and validates a passenger’s “ticket.”

And here is the mug shot of the criminal herself as recorded on her Navigo pass. The ink is barely dry on both the pass and the citation. Just imagine how proud this cop must be to have nailed that most threatening of criminals, an American Senior Citizen Metro Violator who, despite her possession of the right documentation, was deemed so dangerous that he threatened her with jail if she didn’t cough up the 5 Euros. Justice was clearly served. N’est pas?

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After trying unsuccessfully to explain the mitigating circumstances, which was pointless with our French and his lack of English, two women passengers jumped to Marilynn’s defense and tried to aid in the explanation. Apparently, the bus pass failed to register and validate the transaction. This bus pass protocol is relatively new to us and M didn’t notice that the machine hadn’t beeped its acknowledgment of the swipe.

But the cop – jeans and T-shirt – flashed his cop credentials and asked for our tickets. I gave him mine and he gave it back but immediately asked Marilynn for hers and without an explanation ordered her to pay a 5 Euro fine. We know that he boarded the bus at the same stop we did and that he obviously saw the attempted validation; so he knew she had a pass. The two women passengers tried to help by getting him to drop the fine and issue a warning and/or explanation but he was determined to press on and we felt we had no alternative but to cough up the 5 Euros. Talk about frustration. This is where you wish you could calmly and quietly ream him out in his own language – but we couldn’t and it left our blood pressure climbing into the volcanic range.

I wasn’t thinking clearly but what I should have done is pull out my iPhone, take his picture and video him issuing the ticket while ignoring our explanation. That’s what most young people in America do to keep the police honest and civil. I screwed up and I’m truly sorry I didn’t have the presence of mind to do it today. If I had recorded the transaction I could have sent it to the Metro police, caused some kind of ruckus, and at least had the satisfaction of a good old-fashioned rant.

This experience is so unlike any other we’ve had with the French people on this trip or any other. The whole messy, irritating thing reminded me of Officer Obie and the littering violation in Alice’s Restaurant. Officer Obie in the pursuit of justice arrests Arlo and his friends and takes them to jail for littering. Is anyone still alive who remembers Alice’s Restaurant? It’s a classic and YouTube is right there to refresh your memory.

And… If you don’t know the song you’ll have to wait ‘till it comes around again on the ghee-tar, like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m57gzA2JCcM

I was, we were, incredulous at today’s main event but listening to Arlo sing about Alice, the restaurant, and Officer Obie makes us feel A-OK. I hope you feel the same.

Lessons from Paris

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1. French people smoke.

    a. Smoking is banned in public places

2. Outside tables at sidewalk cafes are great

    a. Smokers own the outside tables

3. Musee D’Orsay and the Louvre have long waiting lines

    a. Once inside you can’t see the paintings

4. Women wear perfume in Paris

    a. C’est si bon… What’s wrong American women?

5. An entrée is an appetizer

    a. A plat is an entrée and dessert is dessert

6. French wine is cheap.

    a. Everything else is expensive.

7. French dogs are well behaved

    a. And welcome in restaurants

8. French dog owners are not well behaved.

    a. They do not clean up after their pets

9. French cops look like Special Forces.

    a. Seattle cops look like security guards

10. French men, women, and children are courteous to Metro riders

    a. French waiters – maybe not

11. Viennoserie has nothing to do with Vienna

    a. Danish is not from Denmark either

12. French streets are clean (see the #8a exception)

    a. French restrooms are dirty.

13. Paris transit is cheap, clean, efficient and fast.

    a. Seattle transit is expensive, dirty, inefficient and slow

14. French baguettes and croissants are the best in the world

    a. A rotisserie chicken costs $25.

Poulet roti

 

Footnote: My friends Jon and Leslie dispute the cost of the chickens cited, but this was the price posted on one of the chickens in our neighborhood last week. Yesterday Jon and I saw them for 10 Euros ($14). Duly noted.

The Modern Expatriate Newsfeed

IHT

One of my great pleasures during a lifetime of overseas travel has been sitting in a sidewalk café and reading the International Herald Tribune. I can enjoy the foreign-ness of the place but still be transported away as I slowly turn the pages and focus on “home.” I check the sports scores, check the stock market, check out the big events of the day before and note what’s happening not just at home but all over the world.

But… newspapers are dying. You can still “Read all about it!” but if you do – read all about it – you will likely be reading it online.

Times have changed; we used to learn about current events in neatly folded pages of newsprint but that is rare these days. We go after the news in different ways or in different places than we did 25 years ago. Cable news, personal computers and the Internet have changed everything about how the news is gathered, distributed, and received.

25 years ago if I wanted to watch TV in Paris I had to have a firm grasp of the French language. Today I can watch CNN, Bloomberg News, CNBC, BBC, Sky News, Al Jazeera, and France English – all in English. Or I can go to my computer, connect to the Internet and listen to NPR stream the news from my local FM station in Seattle.

I’ve been living and traveling overseas for most of the last 50 years. For generations we, American travelers, got our daily dose of the news from the International Herald Tribune. Knowledgeable travelers and expats around the world relished their hour spent drinking café au lait in sidewalk cafés while pouring over the IHT. In Hemingway’s novel The Sun Also Rises the first thing Jake Barnes does when he returns to France from Spain is buy a copy of the Herald Tribune and read it in a sidewalk café.

Sixteen pages of distilled information about international events. Real news. International news. No provincial stuff. Some regular columns – political commentary by James Reston and Walter Lippmann, humor from Art Buchwald and Russell Baker or Jon Winroth’s wine column – but no puff pieces. Just smart no-nonsense reporting with an American slant for an American abroad.

I loved the Herald Tribune. Founded in 1887, it had various iterations of the name over time – Paris Herald, Paris Herald Tribune, The International Herald Tribune, and since 2013 the International New York Times. It will always be the Herald Tribune to me but it is not the same newspaper it used to be.

When I was living in France in 1970, it felt impossibly self indulgent to splurge 5 Fr. francs ($1) for a newspaper every day, but I did it and it was a ritual I couldn’t give up. My wife and I planned our day around it. Each day at 4 o’clock we walked from our small rented cottage on Rue Jean Aicard to a kiosk on the quay at St. Tropez, bought the IHT, walked a few steps across the cobbles to our favorite bar café, sat down, ordered two glasses of the local rose’, and divided up the paper. It was a delicious hour.

St Tropez Quay

Forty-four years later I’m back in France. A lot has happened since then. The daily habits of expats and locals have changed dramatically. The sidewalk café tables have been taken over by smokers. Since 2007 it has been illegal to smoke in enclosed spaces open to the public, so the smokers have moved outside and now it is almost impossible for the rest of us to enjoy a smoke-free lunch or leisurely drink at an outside table. I end up looking around, wetting my finger and hoisting it in the air to decide if I can get upwind from the smoker at the table next door. Most likely I will have smokers on both sides, so the wind check doesn’t mean much. Some of the smokers are old-fashioned newspaper readers but more often than not it’s their iPad or smartphone that delivers the news. Times and habits have changed

Sidewalk cafe

The Internet and cable news are responsible for most of the change. Newspapers are not as nimble as the networks and websites at real time reportage. The downside for news junkies is that investigative reporting has been cutback. Newspaper subscriptions supported the capital structure of news organizations and allowed them to allocate resources to investigative journalism. Fewer subscriptions means less money for investigative reporting. We should all be sorry about that. With trusted newspapers folding up we have to be more vigilant about where we get our newsfeed and whom we trust to give it to us straight.

At 3.00 Euros ($4.20) per copy the International New York Times is a little out of my comfort zone now. I think twice about the purchase. I still enjoy digging through it, but at that price I can buy an excellent, recently released trade paperback every three days at Shakespeare & Company. In Saigon I bought the IHT Weekend Edition from a gnarled old street vendor every Saturday. He would see me walking in his direction, take the IHT from the inventory of periodicals he had neatly laid out on the sidewalk, jump to his feet, and hold it out for me. It was a weekly good deed for me to support him and I savored the paper. But, I was living and working there then, and the paper, luxury that it was, added value as a work tool. Maybe I’ll try it here and see if it works. I do miss the decades long ritual.

There is sense of loss when changed circumstances take away a product or place that is fondly remembered. Les Halles, the Paris wholesale market, is gone now, replaced by an ugly underground shopping mall and sunken garden that no one likes, and my daily ritual with the Herald Tribune has changed. Reston, Lippmann, and Buchwald are all dead now, replaced by Tom Friedman, Paul Krugman and Maureen Dowd. They don’t have the same gravitas as their predecessors. Is Maureen Dowd the humor columnist now? She has a satirical vinegar wit, but she’s no Buchwald, and even though the international edition has special columnists on fashion, design and food, the feel of the paper has changed.

Change is good and in many ways today’s expats have newsfeeds that are superior to their earlier reliance on the Herald Tribune as the primary source. I love the new technology and devices. I can’t live without them, and I wince when friends my age tell me that they can’t or don’t want to deal with learning how to use a smartphone, or figure out the Googly world we live in. If you don’t understand it and adapt, the world will leave you behind. Suck it up guys. This is the new world.

It’s supposed to be sunny this weekend, so I think I’ll find an outside table in the sun, buy the International New York Times and see how it feels. $4.20 a week isn’t too bad if it’s only once a week. The coffee costs nearly $5, so it’s a $10 morning with my coffee and newspaper. It’s ALMOST like the old days.