Paris to Ketchum and Beyond: A Moveable Feast

A Moveable FeastI’m rereading A Moveable Feast, Hemingway’s unfinished memoir about the Paris years that was completed by his son, Jack, and published posthumously in 1964. The writing is so easy going and effortless that it doesn’t seem like “literature” at all. The famous Hemingway style – short, simple, declarative sentences – is there, but the tone is relaxed, intimate, and conversational. It feels like he is sharing with the reader on a personal level – his favorite restaurants, the café where he writes, the one where he meets friends (they are different), the wine he drinks, the bookstore with the lending library, his apartment, walks along the river, skiing in the Voralborg, and family life.

The memoir gives us an insider’s view of the Lost Generation’s Paris, but the most personal and interesting sequences, for me, are the descriptions of his father-son interactions with Bumby.

Jack Hemingway Bumby is what Ernest and Hadley called their son, Jack, and those pieces are personally interesting because Jack and I were friends for 20 years. I can’t say I knew him well, but we shared meals, drank coffee, and played tennis together. I knew his first wife, Puck, his three daughters, and his second wife, Angela. In fact, he and Angela ate dinner at Piccolo, my little Italian restaurant in Ketchum, two nights before they got married. His daughter, Mariel, by then a big time movie star, confided to me that she had a big crush on my son, Brent, in middle school. Unfortunately, she didn’t reveal that to either one of us until 20 years later.

I met Jack in 1973. Everett “Woody” Wood, a mutual friend, introduced us. It was six degrees of separation. Jack and Woody had Dartmouth in common and Woody and I were Pan Am pilots together in Berlin. When Woody retired from Pan Am he moved to Ketchum where Jack and I were both living. The stars were aligned and an introduction was made. Woody loved Jack, but Woody also loved good books and the celebrity connection, once removed, from Ernest. Woody was part of the Greatest Generation and born at a time when officers were gentlemen and it wasn’t unusual to have an Ivy educated Pan Am pilot. He fancied himself a New England aristocrat and affected a courtly and formal style – all bogus as far as I could tell – but he was a charmer, a good story teller, an old school snob, a bit of a drunk – and a friend.

jack-hemingway-2Jack, on the other hand, was anything but a snob. He liked everyone and treated them all with respect. I have rarely met anyone with a more positive and even temperament. When we first met he told me that his first year in Ketchum he fished 365 days and loved every one of them. Ironically, in spite of my interest in contemporary lit, I never talked to him about his father or his growing up as the child of the most famous American author of the 20th century. That wasn’t our connection. I didn’t know until yesterday, that he, himself, had parachuted into France as an OSS operative in 1944 with his fly fishing gear as cover for spying behind the German lines. Nevertheless, in spite of his fluent French he was found out, wounded, and spent the last months of the war as a POW.

In the early ‘80’s I used to see Woody at the library in Ketchum. He told me he was working on his memoirs. At the time I thought he was blowing smoke and imagined he was more interested in being a writer than actually writing anything. I don’t think that anymore. Time has given me a different perspective.

I lost track of Woody for a few years but learned later that he had migrated back to his beloved Dartmouth where he spent his last years as the manager of the Hanover Chamber of Commerce’s tourist booth. It seemed both sad and suitable. Pan Am pilots don’t have a great track record as savvy investors and Woody must have made some bad choices along the way. Nevertheless, I think he was a happy camper in Hanover. His character and self-esteem were tied to the college and I hope he kept working on those memoirs.

It’s ironic that, except for finances, my situation is not much different than Woody’s was post-retirement. I love books and aspire to being an accomplished writer. I think he did too. I spent years thinking about it, but was too lazy to do the heavy lifting. I’m committed now and it feels more important to work at it than it does to get it published. Process versus product. There is great satisfaction in sitting down each day and grinding away at the blog, journal notes, and some short story drafts. I hope Woody felt the same way.

In A Moveable Feast Ernest says, “I always worked until I had something done and I always stopped when I knew what was going to happen next. That way I could be sure of going on the next day.” But sometimes when he was starting a new story and could not get it going he would stand by the window of his flat looking out over the rooftops of Paris and tell himself, “Do not worry. You have always written before and you will write now. All you have to do is write one true sentence. Write the truest sentence that you know.” And he did. I aspire to the same – one true sentence and then one more…

I can’t write about Hemingway and Paris without at least acknowledging Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris – every writer’s fantasy of inhabiting the same time and space as Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Picasso, Gertrude Stein, Dali, Eliot, Cole Porter, etc. I wasn’t there, but the thread of connection is: my grad school advisor, Kay Boyle, a prolific and highly underrated writer, lived in Paris from 1923 to 1943 and knew them all. If only I could time travel with Gil Pender. Maybe the one true sentence would come more easily.

Ernest Hemingway died in Ketchum in 1961.

Everett “Woody” Wood died in Hanover in 1995.

Jack Hemingway died in New York City in 2000.

R.I.P.

On The Town For Under $100

Date Night Lately I’ve been thinking about “date nights.” No, not the creepy, contrived, sentimental, hearts and flowers kind but the nights when the two of you get out and do something interesting together. I started thinking about it when my son-in-law, Jon, told me his babysitter charges $13 an hour. At that rate, even movie night for two is close to a $100 proposition. I don’t need a babysitter but Jon and Heidi do. $13 an hour forces them to be creative in order to make it happen.

Our kids are all doing well, but they have to balance a lot of needs when they think about going out. They want to try new restaurants, see plays, catch a Sounders’ game, or go to a movie. As much as anything it’s about keeping things fresh and having some fun together. Marilynn and I like to hang out with the kids, but we have our own lives and we’re not always available. So how can they make it work? Whether there’s a babysitter in the equation or not going out has gotten to be expensive.

Because I think it’s important to stay engaged I’ve started thinking about how to minimize the cost of going out without diminishing the experience. Not every event is a bargain, but there are ways to keep the costs down. Here are a couple of ways to think about getting out for under $100:

PalominoSeattle has a thriving restaurant scene and keeping seats full and turning the tables is a concern for them, especially on slower nights. Happy Hour can help lower the cost but add food to the experience. Most of the good bars and restaurants feature happy hour on their slower nights – Monday through Thursday and Sunday. The hours vary but 4:30 – 6 or 6:30 is normal. I might enjoy a full dinner on a special occasion, but for the most part a drink and a couple of “small plates” is more than enough for a pre-event nosh. Even on weekend nights a drink and something from the bar menu is affordable. It’s a great way to start date night.

Then, as part of the planning process, I check out the Weekend Section of the Seattle Times every Friday to see what’s playing on the local scene – film, theater, and music. With close to 20 theater and dance companies in town, there are usually several quality choices as well as some intriguing, mystery ones. Unless they have a blockbuster success on their hands the local playhouses don’t normally sell out during the week, and most of them offer a discount at the box office on the day of the performance. Some, like Intiman and Seattle Rep, also have a standby rate though you might not know if there are seats or if you’ll be able to sit together until minutes before the performance.

ACT TheaterFor example, ACT Theater offers the following: On the day of the performance, if there are unsold seats ACT lets the customer decide how much to pay. Last night we paid half price ($20/per) to see the well-reviewed play Rapture, Blister, Burn. When the action started the theater was almost full but we had great seats in the small circle-in-the-round amphitheater. The play was fun, the acting professional, and the audience appreciative – a thoroughly enjoyable experience.

Here’s how the entire evening broke down for us financially:
1. Parking at the US Bank garage (1415 Fifth Ave, entrance on Union) – $8 after 5pm
2. Drinks and apps at Sullivan’s: (martini and 2 glasses of Pinot Grigio) plus 2 small plates (skillet chips with blue cheese and tavern steak with spinach and mushrooms) – $50
3. 2 tickets to see Rapture, Blister, Burn – $40
Total for the evening: $98

For Jon and Heidi to keep it below $100 it has to look like this:
1. Babysitter – 5 hours – $65
2. Parking at US Bank garage – free if validated by Palomino Restaurant (upstairs)
3. Pizza and 2 beers at Palomino – $15 plus tip (Happy Hour every day, all hours
4. Theater tickets – $20 (pay what you can/standby at ACT)
Total for the evening: $100

Note: parking at the US Bank garage is free if the ticket is validated at the Palomino Restaurant. Happy Hour never ends in the Palomino bar, and the expansive bar menu includes brick oven pizzas and delicious salads. If we had gone the Palomino route we would have saved about $15 and brought the cost of our evening down to $83.

Other suggestions:

The Crest: The Landmark Theater chain’s bargain movie house. It’s the last stop for all the first run films in Seattle and it’s only $3 to see them before they go to DVD land. I’d much rather watch a film in a theater than on DVD and it’s our good fortune that the Crest is near us in North City.

Zoo Tunes: On the lawn at the Woodland Park Zoo. It’s a great early evening summer venue. Picnic on the grass. $25-40 a ticket. Good entertainers – John Hiatt, Randy Newman, Lee Ann Rimes, Indigo Girls, Todd Snider, Brandy Carlisle – this summer.

Museums: All of the Seattle museums – SAM, Asian Art Museum, Burke, Frye, MOHAI, etc offer free admission on the first Thursday of every month and most of them are open until 9pm.

The Art of Jazz: Free jazz in the lobby of SAM (Seattle Art Museum) on the second Thursday of every month.. Beer and wine for $6-7. Good venue and acoustics. Taste, SAM’s restaurant, has upscale food and a menu of small plates.

Elliott Bay Books: Author readings and events have become a favorite way for us to spend an evening. The readings usually begin at 7pm and there are dozens of trendy bars and restaurants in the neighborhood. Our favorites for a pre-reading nosh are Quinn’s the Scott Staples’ gastropub (sensational steak tartare and an extensive selection of draft beers) or Poquito’s, the big, trendy Mexican place – both on Pike within a block of Elliott Bay. Tonight my friend, Alexander Maksik, is passing through town and reading from his new novel, A Marker to Measure Drift. We’ll be there.

These are just a few suggestions. The Weekend Section of the Times gives a comprehensive view and review of what’s happening for the coming week. I always find things that peak my interest or trigger my curiosity. Sometimes it’s the unknown factor that drives me to the event and adds the element of surprise to date night. Be creative.

Homebody/Kabul in Seattle

“We shudder to recall the times through which we have lived, the Recent Past, about which no one wants to think.” Tony Kushner – Homebody/Kabul

Tony Kushner’s 2001 play, Homebody/Kabul, is remarkable in many ways. It’s about Afghanistan but was written before 9/11. It’s a monologue delivered by a spinsterish woman, the Homebody, in her London flat (but could be anywhere) who is captivated by an out of date guidebook about Kabul. The Kushner line, about the Recent Past, was startlingly prescient given that he started writing the play in 1996, even before the US air strikes on Al Qaeda training camps. And though the play was first performed in December of 2001 after the Twin Towers attack, the playwright didn’t feel it was necessary to modify the text in order to make it more timely.

I saw it last weekend and was astonished as much by the production as by the writing. Like I do every week, I was digging for something interesting to see or do when I read a review in the Seattle Times. I hadn’t heard of this particular play but I thought it sounded interesting. I’ve been a Kushner fan since I saw his 1993 Pulitzer-winning Angels in America, Part One: The Millennium Approaches, but Homebody/Kabul promised a different dose of the provocative and political. The current Seattle production was only performed on Friday and Saturday nights and had a limited run. I tried several times to buy tickets but it was always sold out. I finally got tickets for Friday’s performance and was quick to discover the reason it was always sold out. The venue seats 18. This is a picture of the stage and the seating arrangement.

HomebodySurprise can be an important element in an art experience and add significantly to its impact. Think Michelangelo or Jackson Pollock, Rodin or Christo, Dostoevsky or Kafka, Shakespeare or Sophocles. This play is full of surprises – from the size and simplicity of the venue, to the sensational performance by Mary Ewald, to the clever history lesson read to the audience from an out of date guidebook with the audience sitting just a few feet from her “stage.”

This small Seattle production crystalized the elements I have come to think of as part of a true art experience – an original concept, a universal theme, quality material, and near perfect execution. The scale and intimacy at the New City Theater helped bring these elements into focus. It would have been wholly different in a New York theater. In a tiny theater like New City’s you can actually hear the audience breathing and the actress turning a page in the old guidebook. It becomes a sense experience as well as an intellectual one.

homebody Mary EwaldI can’t claim any expertise as a theater critic, but Homebody/Kabul reminded me of Tom Stoppard’s Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead one of the first contemporary plays I was lucky enough to see. The dialogue (or monologue) is packed with clever language and a cadence that is almost a character by itself. My ear and my brain were in a near constant state of surprise.

I would happily go back to this production, but to take up one of the 36 seats on its last two nights would be denying someone else a great theater experience. Instead, I’m going to see Rapture, Blister, Burn, ACT Theater’s production of the Gina Gionfriddo comedy, about the evolution and fallout of the feminist movement. I’ve had enough of Afghanistan for a while, although Khalid Hosseini’s And The Mountains Echoed is sitting near the top of the stack of my must read books. I heard him read from it recently and it sounds like a worthy follow up to A Thousand Splendid Suns.

So many books (and plays), so little time.

Why Did Asiana Airlines Flight 214 Crash?

As a young Marine Corps student pilot I remember my instructor telling me, “Any fool can fly an airplane and I’m the living proof of that.” His self-deprecating point, of course, was that principles of flight are fairly simple and can be mastered with practice. I have no formal training in aircraft accident investigation, but with 30 years as a Marine Corps and Pan Am pilot here’s what I think happened with Asiana Airlines last week.

asiana crash

Last Saturday, on a clear day, Asiana Airlines Flight 214 crashed into the seawall at San Francisco International Airport with three pilots in the cockpit.

I really like Asiana, but when an aircraft lands short of the runway the pilots are almost always at fault. I didn’t want to believe it. I struggled to find an explanation. I wanted to hear that there was a mechanical or electrical malfunction, but in my heart of hearts I knew that this kind of accident was all about what the pilots did or didn’t do. While the initial reports were still coming in I flashed back to the 2009 Air France 447 flight that plummeted into the Atlantic Ocean from it’s cruising altitude of 35,000 feet. It seems clear to me that the pilots in both cases had forgotten their earliest training on how to fly an airplane.

How could these accidents happen? How could three experienced Asiana “pilots” let an airplane fly itself and its 300 passengers into the SFO seawall? How could three experienced Air France pilots fail to identify a stall situation and allow their aircraft to fall 35,000’ into the ocean when there was ample evidence of what was happening and time to take corrective action? The explanation is one that is hard to accept. These pilots displayed an embarrassing ignorance of flight principles, lack of training, and manual, hands on flying skills.

We should be clear about one thing; these jumbo, long haul airplanes, flown by flag carrier airlines on international routes are the purview of senior pilots. They are the most sought after flying jobs. It takes seniority to get them and they pay more than the slots on smaller aircraft. All of the pilots involved in these two accidents were high time aviators, even though one or more of them may have been new to the particular model of airplane. Nevertheless, an airplane is an airplane and flying principles are transferable. No commercial pilot is released from training and given command authority without training on the aircraft model, passing a check ride in a simulator and undergoing a minimum number of hours of supervised line experience. In fact, the pilot “flying” the Asiana jet was in that supervised stage of training at the time of the accident. The Check Pilot was in the cockpit monitoring the approach.

Aircraft are complicated engineering achievements but flying them today is not much different that it was 75 years ago. Automation has brought autopilots, auto throttles, flight directors, Category II and III auto-land systems, stall and ground proximity warning systems, and computerized displays, but every airplane including the Boeing 777ER (Asiana) and the Airbus 330-203 (Air France) has an altimeter, an airspeed indicator, a rate of climb indicator, an artificial horizon AND the aforementioned stall warning system, and every pilot learns how to fly and to evaluate an aircraft’s attitude and performance using these instruments (without automation).

One of the first things a pilot in training learns is what happens when an aircraft stalls. He or she also learns how to identify a stall, how to prevent it, and what steps to take if, for some reason, it happens anyway. An aircraft stalls because there is not enough air flowing over the wings to provide the lift that keeps it in the air. In the simplest terms when an aircraft stalls it stops flying and starts falling. That is exactly what happened in the Asiana and Air France accidents, and in both cases the pilots failed to identify the stall or correct appropriately.

The details of these flight failures are different and there were unforeseen factors affecting both but in both cases the pilots failed to identify the problem and take corrective action in a timely manner. Senior pilots don’t get paid those big bucks for sitting on their butts at 35,000’ for 11 hours. They get paid for addressing unusual or emergency situations, identifying the problem, making good decisions, and taking corrective action. I personally disliked flying across the ocean because those long flights had only one takeoff and landing. I opted to be based in Berlin and fly within Europe where we made six takeoffs and landing every day. It’s not easy to stay proficient when you only see six or seven landings a month and share them with a co-pilot.

On the Air France flight from Rio to Paris in 2009 Flight #447 lost its airspeed indication and the autopilot disengaged as a result. That’s what is supposed to happen when the airspeed indicator fails. It’s alarming and infrequent but it can be identified and dealt with. The airspeed indicator gets its inputs from a pitot system that measures airflow and pressure differential that is correlated and sent to the airspeed indicator. That pitot device is heated to prevent freezing but it is not uncommon for the heater to fail with a corresponding failure of the airspeed indicator. It’s an adrenaline pumping situation, but all pilots in training are schooled on this emergency there are recommended procedures for dealing with it – keep the wings level, stabilize the power, and maintain altitude until the situation can be fully evaluated. It can take a couple of minutes to figure it out, but it should be part of every pilot’s training. In no case should the pilot rely solely on one instrument like the airspeed indicator. The Air France pilots did just that and for some reason, still unknown, pulled back on the stick and started a climb that led to a stall. Then exacerbating the situation he continued to pull back on the stick which maintained the stall condition all the way to the water. 228 people died needlessly.

The Asiana crew’s malfeasance was even more egregious although there were fewer fatalities. Even when an aircraft is automated the pilot’s role is to monitor all conditions in and out of the cockpit. The basic skill involved is called scanning. It means that the pilot’s eyes are always scanning the instruments for indications of anything out of the ordinary. This is true at all altitudes but critical on takeoff and landing. The unaccounted for factor last Saturday was that the glide slope of the Instrument Landing System (ILS) was not operating, so the aircraft could not make an automated (coupled) approach. This is not uncommon and it was a beautiful clear day. All the aircraft approaching Runway 28 were making visual approaches but had centerline guidance and radar monitoring. Other aids were also available to help the pilots. Published approach charts, carried by the pilots, provided a profile of the approach with recommended altitudes at specific distances from the runway. For some unexplained reason the Asiana pilots were negligent and failed to monitor either airspeed (40 knots below the target) or altitude (significantly below the recommended profile) on final approach and stalled out just before hitting the seawall 1000’ short of the runway threshold. The NTSB investigators reported that the crew identified their dangerous situation 9 seconds before impact and called for a “go around” but it was too late. The throttles, set to auto-throttle mode, were at idle and unable to spool up in time. Like the Air France crew, the pilot in command’s response was to pull back on the controls when he was already too low and too slow, which aggravated the stall condition. Three people died. Both of these accidents were 100% preventable.

Automation has made flying safer, smoother, and more efficient. GPS has made navigation easy and If the airport is so equipped it has made it possible to land an airplane in zero visibility conditions. But, it takes experienced eyes to monitor what is happening and recognize deviations from normal. The 777ER and the Airbus 330-203 are remarkable aircraft. As the crash at SFO demonstrated, survival is possible in some situations because of improved structural engineering, safer less flammable materials and the professionalism and training of the cabin crew.

I wrote a blog in April celebrating the professionalism at Asiana. I have crossed the Pacific six times in the last two years on Asiana. Each time the experience was above average for airline travel in this age. I was stunned when I watched the SFO accident happening live on CNN.

There will be a lot of speculation about why these two accidents happened. When I was hired at Pan Am most of pilots were trained in the military and had high levels of quality flight experience. That is not true today and certainly not true at foreign airlines. There is speculation that cultural factors may have played a role in the Asiana crash. Was there reluctance on the part of the co-pilot or check pilot to correct the pilot who was flying the airplane? Was face saving a factor? I don’t know the answer to these questions.

JAL-Flight2

Those with long memories might remember a similar but non-fatal accident in 1968 when a Japan Airlines DC-8 made an unintentional water landing short of the same runway (28L) in San Francisco. It was another case of pilot inattention and basic cockpit scanning. The JAL Captain Kohei Asoh took full responsibility for the mishap, responding to the NTSB investigator’s question about how he managed to land 2 ½ miles short of the runway by saying “As you Americans say, I fucked up.” His honesty and acceptance of responsibility has since been dubbed the Asoh Defense. Captain Asoh was demoted to First Officer and after additional training resumed flying for JAL until his retirement.

Much has changed since Captain Asoh pancaked in SF Bay. Aircraft systems are more complex and flight regimes more automated. Not only does the initial and recurrent training of pilots need to focus on the new technologies and automation but these accidents remind us that basic flying skills like cockpit instrument scanning, cross-checking, cockpit communication, and stall recovery procedures need to be refreshed. The stall warning in the Air France 447 accident went off 75 times before the plane hit the water. The pilots’ response to that warning should have been automatic – lower the nose and add power to regain flying speed.

In the end, when there is a problem, training is the key to its solution. The problem may surprise us in the moment, but the solution should be readily available in the memory and experience bank from its rehearsal in simulator training situations. We are all human and imperfect. We all make mistakes, but these accidents remind us that there are ways to prevent them from happening again. I believe the changes will be implemented. The airlines are all on heightened alert at the moment. I hope they don’t let the moment slip away.

Three New Discoveries

Things keep appearing on my plate; unexpected things that suck me in. Books are the prime offenders, because I’m always thinking about what to read next. The list is long but constantly in flux because “what’s next” keeps changing. New books scoot to the head of the line because of a review or a friend’s recommendation, and old friends in the bookcase jump out and demand rereading. Last week the new book was The Financial Lives of Poets by Jess Walter (more on that later), and earlier this spring a conversation with the novelist Alexander Maksik led me to reread three novels by James Salter. The list grows at both ends. The new one jumps the line and the old one gets tacked on to its tail. I’m usually reading two or three things at the same time – hardcover, Kindle, and paperback. It depends on where I am, where I’m going, and how much space I have. It’s exciting and frustrating at the same time, but I’m always ready to rearrange the list and move on to a new chapter – so to speak.

Financial Lives - Pig Part of the fun of writing this blog is digging through the sources looking for interesting events, plays, films, readings or exhibits to write about. Last Friday I saw an ad in the Weekend section of the Seattle Times for The Financial Lives of the Poets. It’s a catchy title. I’d seen it before but it hadn’t worked its way to the surface of my consciousness. I knew it was a novel but the ad was for a play with the same title.

Until then I hadn’t paid much attention to the Book-It Theater either. It’s a quiet little local secret. I thought it was just another small theater company in a town with more that 20 venues and associated theater companies, but last weekend I discovered that it was formed 24 years ago as an artist collective to adapt works of fiction for the stage. It’s a genius idea and over its life Book-It has adapted more than 90 full-length novels for theater productions. The Financial Lives of Poets is its latest adaptation and it is sensational. It’s a quirky story about a guy whose life is coming undone. He’s losing his job, wife, house, and mind all at the same time. If it doesn’t sound funny you need to read the book or see the play to find out why it is.

I don’t have the space to give you Jess Walter’s full bio, but he lives in Spokane, is a working journalist, has written six novels and several short story collections, won an Edgar Allen Poe Award, was a finalist for the National Book Award, and recently published a novel called Beautiful Ruins that the NY Times called “a high-wire feat of bravura storytelling.”

My Book-It Theater experience makes me realize I was only scratching the surface of the Seattle arts and culture scene when I started writing about Surviving Seattle. I had no understanding of how wide and deep the scene was and how committed Seattle is to supporting its art, music, and theater communities. The truth is that at the time I was more worried about surviving the coming cold and rain than focused on the depth and variety of ways to deal with it.

I’m not given to depression, but I might have a slight case of SAD (Sunlight Affective Disorder) when the winter fog and drizzle settles in around my ears. Still – a 12-ounce double latte usually kicks it up and lets a little light in. In addition to new books, films, plays, music and the like I’m always on the lookout for the perfect espresso drink. It’s no secret that Seattle is Mecca for caffeine aficionados and the minor decorative art of coffee design. I’m not talking about Starbucks. Among connoisseurs, the brands that rise to the surface are names like Diva, Caffe Ladro, Vivace, Uptown Espresso, Monorail Espresso, Caffe Vita, and Herkimer Coffee – yes, Herkimer Coffee.

IMG_0459 Herkimer is another local secret. I don’t know the derivation of the name. I’m quite sure they didn’t hire a marketing guru to brand the product, but it’s my latest coffee find and current favorite. Ladro is a close second, but Herkimer lattes have that strong, dark, smooth, rich taste I search for. Like most of the others Herkimer is a roaster as well as a retail provider. I always believe that where they care enough to make art part of the experience the coffee will be good. Here is last week’s latte.
IMG_0468
Herkimer has only two retail locations at the moment – on Greenwood Avenue in the Phinney Ridge neighborhood and University Way at the north end of the U District. A third location is under construction on Dexter close to the exploding South Lake Union biotech and IT development. The outlets are fitted out in industrial-chic – polished concrete floors, blond wood table tops with zinc trim, and good lighting. It’s a great workspace and seems to be popular with the laptop off-site IT crowd.

Those are my three discoveries of the week – The Financial Lives of the Poets, Book-It Theater, and Herkimer Coffee. There’s a hamburger blog cooking but I’m told groups of three are better remembered, so burgers will be on the grill in a future post.