Expect the Worst; Remember the Best

Take a good look at this picture. Wide-body aircraft cabin, spacious seating, smiling flight attendants and so on. Remember this picture the next time you climb aboard. I doubt that it’s the picture that will stay with you after the flight. It may not be appropriate for a man to discuss childbirth, but I can’t get its analogy to long distance air travel out of my head. The conventional wisdom is that a woman’s pain during childbirth recedes and is replaced by the pleasure she receives from the child. I can’t speak to that experience personally, but I can tell you that something inexplicable and similar happens to me with respect to very long passages in an airplane.

In today’s unregulated airline industry it’s all about the bottom line and bottom lines are all about filling airplanes. I respect the profit motive but I’m old enough to remember when airlines and trains were regarded as public utilities. Regulation insured that our transportation system provided service to all markets and that the carriers received a reasonable return on investment. There were public policy reasons to subsidize remote markets and the distribution of routes assured that airlines were treated fairly and equally. At least that was the rationale.

In 1977-78 Alfred Kahn, Chairman of the Civil Aeronautics Board and a Cornell economics professor, led the effort to deregulate the airline industry. From that point on passengers were collateral damage as airlines competed against one another in a free market setting to fill the seats. It took awhile to figure out what worked best for the bottom line but the end result was decreased capacity and higher load factors.

Today it is rare to fly anywhere in an airplane that is not packed full. Gone are the days when you might be able to stretch out across two or three seats. The current situation makes transoceanic travel nightmarish. Last week my wife and I flew from Seattle to Seoul, Korea, and on to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Seattle to Seoul was 11 hours and 40 minutes in the air. Seoul to HCMC was another 4 hours and 45 minutes.

I work for an NGO (non-governmental organization). We do not have the money or inclination to provide Business Class travel for our staff. Our money goes to projects and programs that benefit needy populations. I’m almost six feet tall, physically fit and not overweight. Still, I’m miserable when I have to twist like a pretzel into a transoceanic aircraft seat and then squeeze even more to wedge myself into a seat in the Asian configuration. You see, in Asia people are smaller so more people can be crammed into the already overcrowded aircraft cabin. I cannot sit upright in the Asian configuration even when the seat in front of me is in the upright position – never mind when it is reclined. I have to sit side-saddle for 5 hours.

The worst part however, the childbirth part, is the 11 hours and 40 minutes over the ocean. There is no way to avoid the pain, discomfort, and misery of having your ass strapped into any kind of seat for almost 12 hours. Add to that the dehydrating effect of recirculated moisture-less air and the craziness factor rises exponentially. All the travel experts recommend that you get out of your seat every hour and walk the aisle, stretch your arms and legs, and drink plenty of water. Easily said. I try, but I haven’t found it that easy to unstrap from my middle seat, wake and excuse myself to my sleeping neighbor who has to get up to let me out, and then walk the aisle avoiding food and beverage carts, duty free sales, and free ranging toddlers 11 times on the way to Seoul. I do try, but if I get up 4 or 5 times it’s a victory. The rest of the time I suffer, but like childbirth the pain and suffering recedes over time and I continue to travel across 15 time zones two or three times a year. I love it when I get there; I just hate getting there.

Income Inequality – Saigon Style


This woman didn’t want me to take her picture, so I snapped a quickie as I was walking away. What you can’t see is a pile of sorted cardboard, soda cans, water bottles, plastic bags, and styrofoam – her “products.”

This is private enterprise in Vietnam. Each morning this woman and others like her hit the streets of Saigon with their two wheeled carts looking for anything they think can be reused or recycled. In the afternoon, with her cart overflowing, this lady stakes out a piece of sidewalk near our apartment and begins breaking down boxes, sorting, and stacking the assortment of things she has collected. When she is finished with that task she neatly loads the cart and pushes off down the street. I don’t know where she unloads and I don’t know who buys the products but every afternoon she is there, kneeling on the sidewalk, sorting a fresh accumulation of items gleaned from street side trash containers. Her civil service counterpart is a corps of orange suited women who patrol the same streets with large orange carts picking up street side garbage in plastic bags from neighborhood door steps. Everything that can be recycled is separated out and given a new life.

I don’t have hard data but I doubt that the trash/recycle woman makes more than $1 a day for her labor. I guess this is what American conservatives have in mind when they talk about dismantling Social Security, getting people off the dole, and exhorting the poor to “pull themselves up by their own bootstraps.” In Vietnam there is no safety net. The family is their Social Security system and if there is no family there is no safety net. Men and women in Vietnam work until they no longer can. There is no expectation that at a certain age they won’t have to work. They know that at some point they won’t be able to and that is the age of retirement. Meanwhile, the streets are increasingly full of Mercedes, BMW’s, Audi’s, and Porsches. The wealthy in Vietnam are showy. The streets are so clogged that cars can rarely exceed 20 mph, but sleek, fast, luxury cars are everywhere and the people inside are wearing Gucci, Versace, and Jimmy Choo. There is a small emerging middle class in Vietnam, but the most noticeable change in recent years is how fast some people are getting wealthy while the poor continue to struggle.

Occupy Wall Street seems to be fizzling in the US but I think the point has been made. A society that tolerates huge disparities in wealth is an unhealthy one. The family may be a healthier safety net than programs like Social Security, but there must be a middle ground when the rich are increasingly self indulgent and the elderly are homeless and hungry.

Now Read This…


For three years I haven’t read anything, fiction or non-fiction, that didn’t have something to do with Vietnam. I was looking forward to reading about something or someplace new, but it wasn’t a chore when I got sucked into reading Angie Chau’s book Quiet as They Come. She’s a new and compelling voice. It’s hard to pull away once the Vietnamese bug catches you. Vietnam is a deeply fascinating place and culture. Working there made it even more so. It has a rich and complicated past, a messy, energetic, present, and a hope fueled future. In between, there is the Vietnamese diaspora. That is what Angie Chau writes about – the Vietnamese-American immigrant experience.

Angie is a child of the diaspora. She was born in Saigon, left Vietnam when she was 4, was raised in San Francisco, graduated from UC Berkeley and earned a Master’s in Creative Writing from UC Davis. Her book of short stories, Quiet As They Come, chronicles the life of a group of Vietnamese immigrants living in a house in the Sunset District in San Francisco.

I don’t know Angie well. We’ve exchanged a few emails and we just missed each other in Saigon last month. I left for Seattle just as she arrived to promote her book, meet new people, and connect with the culture her family left behind. Andrew Lam, another terrific Vietnamese-American writer, introduced us. I was curious when I read her bio and bought the Kindle version of her book right away. It’s compelling. There are echoes of Andrew’s Perfume Dreams, and I was reminded of Robert Olen Butler’s Pulitzer Prize winning A Good Scent from a Strange Mountain.

I’m astonished at how resilient the people of the diaspora have been. They have made lives for themselves in other parts of the world – leaving their homes in Vietnam with nothing, risking everything to get somewhere unknown, and then building lives for themselves and their children in foreign places. I want to shake every child of privilege I know when I feel his or her complacency and sense of entitlement. I shouldn’t be surprised; it’s all they have ever known but I’ve come to know many children of Vietnamese immigrant parents who are stunning examples of how hard work and focus can deliver the American dream. It’s only 37 years since the fall of Saigon and these families have relocated, learned new languages, found jobs, saved their money, bought homes and sent their children to college. I often wonder how I would do in their place.

Angie Chau reminds us of what it was and is like. I can’t wait for her next book.

The World is Flat (at least in Saigon)

The world is flat. The world is small. The world is at our fingertips. We have real-time face to face Skype conversations across the oceans. We “chat” with friends in Europe, Asia and the Americas on a daily basis. We follow the news on the European debt crisis and the air quality in Beijing and we know that all of these things affect us personally.

In Saigon Gucci competes with Pho 24 for our attention. Christian Louboutin sells $700 shoes next door to a counter that sells Rolex knockoffs for under $100. Almost anywhere in the world we can find a more or less homogeneous urban scene. Countries retain their traditions and cultures and on the street the scene can look very indigenous but at the top of the economic ladder, in the center of the largest cities, things start to look very familiar. Brands are global. Half of the world is wearing Nike shoes and baseball caps. Coke and Pepsi are the beverages of choice. Kids in Saigon dream of having their birthday parties at KFC, and there are half a dozen glitzy Vietnamese magazines devoted to fashion and the high life with “golf” in their titles.

I understand the Vietnamese yearning to succeed. They’re hard after it. They’re out early and work late. They save. They invest in their children. They want the stuff that signifies they’ve made it but if they can’t have it they’re willing to sacrifice so that their children can. The grand bargain in Vietnam is that if the parents sacrifice for the children the children will take care of them later. There is no Social Security system in Vietnam. The family is their retirement plan.

The world is indeed small and flat and Vietnamese graduates are competing with Western graduates for jobs on both sides of the ocean. Vietnam is still a developing country and the education system is woefully inadequate. Still, many Western colleges and universities are building satellite branches in Saigon and Hanoi. They recognize the Vietnamese thirst for education and their drive to succeed and prosper.

Many of us regret the Vietnamese rush to emulate the West. Beautiful French colonial buildings are demolished to make way for steel and glass high rises. There is no great affection for the French or their buildings but the demolition is a bargain with the devil. What goes up in its place is a soulless 21st century architecture that has no respect for the past, the culture, or history of the place. When the Berlin Wall came down and the East was opened up, the city of Berlin was careful to maintain and restore many of the rundown old buildings while encouraging new architecture and a mixture of styles. In Saigon and Hanoi it’s all about cost per square meter. It’s all about money.

The world is flat, but a horizon without features isn’t very interesting.

America in Decline

I often describe myself a short term pessimist and long term optimist. I try to think positively about people and the world. I’ve been traveling almost constantly since 1965 and I’ve seen a lot of changes in the places I’ve lived and visited. I’ve come to think that airports are metaphors for their countries.

Last Wednesday I took the red-eye from Saigon to Seoul, had an 11 hour layover in the airport and then continued on to Seattle. It was midnight when we left Saigon but the Illy espresso bar was open. The cafe was stylishly modern and the clientele a mix of Asian, European, and American types. It could have been anywhere. It’s that way in most international airports these days. I can remember when Tan Son Nhat airport was a couple of one story wooden buildings. Now it’s all glass and marble high rise with luxury brand boutiques and world cuisine. It’s 36 years since the Vietnam War ended and the victorious communist north has fallen in line with the rest of the capitalist consumer world. I wonder what Uncle Ho would think?

In the last year I have been in a dozen airports – Saigon, Hanoi, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Siem Reap, Pnom Penh, Johannesburg, Capetown, Doha, Seoul, San Francisco, and Seattle – maybe more. If airports are any indication America is a third world country. It is embarrassing. The buildings are rundown, the baggage systems are slow and inconvenient, signage is confusing, there are few moving walkways, distances to gates are long, escalators are narrow, elevators are hard to find, and information services nowhere to be found. On top of that baggage carts are small, poorly designed, cost $4, and can’t be taken to most of the areas in the airport whereas carts in other countries are sturdy, free, and can actually be used to get your luggage to the taxi stand or curb. Foreigners arriving in America don’t understand. The cart dispensers require dollars or a credit card, the instructions are all in English, and there is no place to get either money or change. It’s embarrassing.

In the Seattle airport the baggage carousels are so poorly designed that the bags have to be lifted up and out of a revolving tray. I watched a half dozen women try to get their bags over the lip of the carousel last week only to lose their grip and watch their bags continue around again. Most modern baggage delivery systems are flat so that the bags can slide off the belt – but not in the US.

If you want to see the best in airports you should visit Seoul. It’s beautiful, it’s functional and it’s designed to meet traveler’s needs. In the transit area, if you’re connecting to another flight, there is a hotel. There are free showers, lounge chairs that let you rest (sleep) comfortably, a massage service, airline lounges that only charge $20 bucks, plus all the usual luxury brand and world food choices. The boarding lounges are large and recognize that jumbo jets carry lots of passengers that need to be accommodated before and after the flight. The chairs in the lounges are cushioned and flat, so that passengers can stretch out if it’s uncrowded. I’ve never understood it but US airports are designed as if there is a security concern if people want to sleep so the chairs are designed to be uncomfortable for more than a short rest and don’t allow one to lie down comfortably.

There’s a lot to be said for building from the ground up. It was easier to rebuild in Europe after the war because it was from the ground up. And, it is easier to build a new airport than to remodel an existing one, but when the light rail systems in Seattle and New York were built recently neither one connected conveniently to the center of the airport. In Seattle the light rail passengers disembark and have to walk with their luggage through the parking garage to get to the actual airport building. Now really.

As I watch the ridiculous Republican candidate debates and hear them all talk about how America is the greatest country in the world I wonder how many of them know the truth. America is actually in decline. Our airports are just a metaphor for the decline. Our roads and bridges are falling apart, our train system is bankrupt and in shambles, our cities are crime ridden, the NY subway system is 100 years old, and there are homeless people in parking lots and doorways all over the country. Let’s stop fooling ourselves; America is in decline and if we want to reverse the trend we need to bite the bullet, acknowledge the cost, pay the taxes and start to fix things. Just do it.